Oh yes. Pls note my 1983 FJ60 is also desmogged. Has vacuum advanced dizzy.
New F & 2F carbs (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
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Interested in a carb for my 2f sourced from a 1984 FJ60 and being installed in a 1974 FJ40. Looking to desmog and make the motor as simple as possible while retaining electronic ignition. Also prefer to stay away from mechanical linkage. Please give me your suggestions. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #1,703
My suggestion if you don't want mechanical linkages then there is only one solution and that the cable carb for 315 and use the 71-72 cable PSector sells along with the jam nuts.
How do I find you on Paypal? Searched Trollhole with no luck. Is there an email account or phone number to reference?
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- #1,705
Go to the first post of this thread.
That was easy... Thank you!
I got my carb and it looks awesome thanks! I am installing it and have a question, my old carb had three vacuum lines hooked up, but on this new one I only see provisions for one. Is this correct or am I missing something? Figured its better to ask now. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #1,708
POst a pic of your distributor first and I tell you what to hook or don't hook up.
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Can you let me know if you received my order/payment/status? Thanks. I got PayPal confirmation payment went through. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #1,712
That's what happens when you put it in the back of the 80 you thought you were going to drive to UPS and a week later realize when you finally drive the other 80 that it was in the back seat. It left this morning I promise. I own way too many cruisers.
- Thread starter
- #1,713
That's a vac retard. So don't connect any vac lines. Plug everything. I'd suggest to start looking for a vac advance distributor. THe vac retard dizzy doesn't help performance.
So just leave the one vac line to the dizzy and plug the carb lines at the carb and vac pump?
Are you going to be selling vac advance in the near future?
- Thread starter
- #1,715
Get rid of the line to the dizzy and cap it at the dizzy and cap the port coming out of my carb.
Since Ive had it, that has always been plumbed to my electronic vac pump on the driver's side fender. I can cap it, but how does that help my vac retard dizzy? Its not that I am skeptical because I defer to your experience on this one, Im just trying to understand the reasoning. Also at that point with your carb only having one vac port which will now be capped, what do I need my vac pump for?
Edit: I searched the vac retard question, but am still wrapping my brain around not needing any vac lines... ?
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G'day.
I'm after a carbi for a 1976 2f fj55.
I'm not too sure what other info you may need. And don't know about the whole desmogged or not.
It has to be shipped to darwin Australia. I can pick it up from any depot in darwin area, or to my post office box, Po box 670 humpty doo.
Let me know.
Cheers Mickey
I'm after a carbi for a 1976 2f fj55.
I'm not too sure what other info you may need. And don't know about the whole desmogged or not.
It has to be shipped to darwin Australia. I can pick it up from any depot in darwin area, or to my post office box, Po box 670 humpty doo.
Let me know.
Cheers Mickey
- Thread starter
- #1,718
Retarding timing is more for emissions more than anything else. It's certainly not going to get you any more performance. Please post a pic of electric vac pump. On a diesel engine would need an electric vac pump since it produces no vacuum. I'm thinking your thinking about the smog control box.
Thanks, I have since done some research and believe its called a Vacuum Switching Valve, not pump (my bad). The way it was set up and connected to the intake had me thrown. Is it not needed? Even if I got a vac advance dizzy, Id be better off porting that right to the carb correct?
Circled in Light Blue
Found this diagram, but its not my switching valve which has 4 ports vs the 6 here.