New Engine day

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roscoFJ73 said:
Brian
This is number 2 intake and exhaust ports,the round one being the exhaust.

I put the flywheel on the this afternoon so I can say I started:D
I had the flywheel machined on both side to ensure a flat fit but I forgot to oil it and surface rust set in.

Note the clever bullbar/flywheel pic:D
that bottom shot is a classic. good pic!
 
crushers said:
the naturally asperated 1HZ isn't hard at all to control. the grunt is just amazing and for crawling around the mountians it is a sweet engien to drive. barely over idle and you can crawl up the steepest stuff.
it actually feels like a bit of a dog till you turbo it, then the bugger comes alive... it becomes a whole different engine, tons of torque but has long legs when needed.
cheers

I been practicing on other peoples for years so I know what to expect :D


I just ran into an old friend to day and he had just got back from driving his elderly boss out to his gold claim at Southern Cross.
He drove his brand new company cab chassis but he wasnt to impressed with the highway performance.
Maybe the V6 gasser in the old hilux spoilt him:D

Most of the roads Im planning will be 80-100 klm max anyway.
Ive seen to many crushed 75 series cabs to go speed breaking records.
Although having something in reserve for overtaking the roadtrains is nice:D
 
top end is improved that is true but with the turbo even going through the gears becomes MUCH more fun...
 
Loooks GREAT man.... I once did a Chevy 454 with a come-a-long which had bolts popping off it at -10C, you are smarter by doing it this time of year...

Fun ah? :bounce: :bounce:

GB
 
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Congrates! Be sure to post up when done, with pics and story!

gb
 
Looking good, Ross. Maybe just use a steel wool pad and rub the rust off the flywheel, then be sure to lightly coat the other side with paint before it rusts again. Are you going to try to prelube the engine? Too bad the drive gear is back on, otherwise you can try to turn the oil pump drive by hand.

I forgot what your plans are with the gearbox?

Dave
 
beanz2 said:
Looking good, Ross. Maybe just use a steel wool pad and rub the rust off the flywheel, then be sure to lightly coat the other side with paint before it rusts again. Are you going to try to prelube the engine? Too bad the drive gear is back on, otherwise you can try to turn the oil pump drive by hand.

I forgot what your plans are with the gearbox?

Dave

I got a newish gearbox and a new t/case. G/box is ready but I need the front plate of my old t/case.

Prelube? Do you mean a squirt of oil down the holes?
The engine rebuilders use an assembly oil that gives some protection on start up.
 
I bet you will start to see a huge downfall in V8's expecially big blocks, soon the only thing they will be any good for is racing and maybe a boat anchor! Owning a V8 truck and driving it to the grocery store, and too work. IMO in this day in age is pretty much, retarded, Although I'm sure eveyone here gets that, thats why we are cruiser heads!!! All's I know is I really need to start getting serious about getting a bio diesel setup going!
 
roscoFJ73 said:
I got a newish gearbox and a new t/case. G/box is ready but I need the front plate of my old t/case.

Prelube? Do you mean a squirt of oil down the holes?
The engine rebuilders use an assembly oil that gives some protection on start up.

You can removed the glowplugs, put a mechanical oil pressure guage where the stock sender goes, and crank it in 15-20 second bursts till oil pressure shows on the guage. (make sure the fuel solinod is not powered). Plunk the glow pluigs in again real quick and fire it up. If you want to be real anal you can crank again with no fuel till pressure shows (should come up quick again), then fire it up.

hth's

gb
 
Greg_B said:
You can removed the glowplugs, put a mechanical oil pressure guage where the stock sender goes, and crank it in 15-20 second bursts till oil pressure shows on the guage. (make sure the fuel solinod is not powered). Plunk the glow pluigs in again real quick and fire it up. If you want to be real anal you can crank again with no fuel till pressure shows (should come up quick again), then fire it up.

hth's

gb

Thanks for that. Cranking it over till I get good pressure sounds good.

I was going to fill the oil pump and filter as well.:cool:
 
Here is some pics of the SOHC in my 1HZ.
The rebuilder didnt put the valve cover gasket in because I didnt give him the alloy plate that covers the cam shaft and contains the camshaft seal which has to go on 1st:doh:

Anyway it was a good chance for some component pics not often seen:D
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A tale of 2 pumps

As you may know the my engine didnt come with a waterpump so I thought I would try an aftermarket.
Anyway I got it home where I had someone elses Aisan OEM waterpump tp compare the quality.
At 1st I thought it ok,but with some slight differences.

The Aisan has an extra boss that seems to be access for some kind of pin and the aftermarket has an exposed hole which also seems to reveal a pin.
I guess the pins knockout to rebuild the pump

The OEM runs a thin plastc rotor and the aftermarket has a steel rotor with thicker vanes.
Close inspection reveals the aftermarket rotor is not drilled centrally although the vanes do not have excessive run out when turned by hand.

The thing that I didnt like is the clearance betweem the vanes and the casing.

The aftermarket has a gap of about 2mm whereas the Aisan has about 1.5 mm.
My guess is that the Aisan will pump more efficiently than the aftermarket pump.
The shop were quite happy to swap it for an Aisan for another $30 and if I had known I would have got the Aisan 1st .
The shop still maintain that brand of pump survives in the desert with no problems and the casting quality is good.
Any thoughts?
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Bye bye 3F

Well I finally pulled the 3F lump and consigned it to bot anchor status.
I took it out with the gearbox and t/case attached mostly by myself with a little help to get the tcase over the bar across the front. I should have removed the panel under the lights before I started.
Apart from that minor headache it went smoothly.
I invested in some heavy galved chain,note the 10T shackle on the rear hook:D

Looking around the 3F I could see I would have been due for some spendy repairs soon .
The old radiator has rust in the corners and the air pipe to the carb has an oil puddle in there:D

I had an electrician add new wiring so its there ready to plug into the new alternator and starter:cool:
The circuits have all been tested with the alt attached.
My electrician even rang Nippondenso to check to see if it was the correct way:D
Good value for 2hrs labour:D


Ive also modified the brake lines so they wont be close to the 1HZ exhaust manifold when it goes in

Next couple of days will be spent getting the t/case bolted up to the diesel H55f .
I also have to get the new mounts welded in and tidy up the engine bay.

My local exhaust shop will bend up a new exhaust the same as a HZJ73.

I bolted the 3F air con compressor to the 1HZ brackets and it bolted up fine except the pulley dont line up with the crank pulley.
Anyone know if its possible to swap in another clutch pulley(1HZ?) to move it over?
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Hey Rosco .. congrats dude .. is the most awesome upgrade thta you wallet can pay .. ! :D 1HZ are a beauty engine all the way ..

keep up posted . !
 
Tapage said:
Hey Rosco .. congrats dude .. is the most awesome upgrade thta you wallet can pay .. ! :D 1HZ are a beauty engine all the way ..

keep up posted . !

I really need an upgraded wallet:D I got bad weather for the next 3 days so me and the wallet are resting:rolleyes::D
 
roscoFJ73 said:
I really need an upgraded wallet:D I got bad weather for the next 3 days so me and the wallet are resting:rolleyes::D

3 days .. :doh: are nothing .. ! if I can do someday this upgrade, my wallet must need final rest :D
 
moving along

Well,in between work ,bad weather and family dramas Ive gotten this far.
The engines sitting on the frame mounts ready to be welded saturday morning.

Apart from a few minor hiccups its generally going fairly smoothly.

All the annoying little unknowns are disapearing and it should be on the road shortly.

Does the gearstick position look ok to anyone else who has the 1HZ in a J7?

I thought it looked a little close but it still has room to breathe.

I could go ahead and keep bolting up part but Ill leave it until the weldings done just in case I have to lift it up again:D
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Parts ID

Can anyone identify these parts? I think they are off the front of my RHD FJ73.:confused:

Clue: They seem to have power steering fluid on them from an old leak.

If you can help ,please post a pic if possible.:idea:
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