New 2019 LC pulls to the right pre and post alignment

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Feb 8, 2016
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33
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Denver
I recently purchased a new 2019 LC. On the drive home from the dealer, I noticed a moderate pull to the right even though the vehicle only had 10 miles on the odometer (didn't catch on the test drive). I wasn't too worried since I was planning to add a BP-51 lift and would need an alignment after install. Tire pressure was the same across all four tires and no visible reason for the right drift.

The lift was completed last Friday and a new alignment completed. Looking at the alignment numbers, the camber (+0.2* both sides) and toe (+0.22 total toe) are dialed into specs but the right drift persists. Tire pressure constant at 40 psi across all four tires, lift is set at same height both sides, no material weight difference. The drift is noticeable with or without road crowning. Having driven over 500k miles, I have a pretty good feel for when a vehicle has an alignment or suspension issue. Note that I went from stock wheels and tires to Stealth Ray10s and RG 285/70/R18s and the drift is surprisingly similar before and after.

While I prefer a drift right over drift left, I need to maintain constant left pressure on the steering wheel and at highway speeds, the drift is significantly more pronounced to the point that if any left pressure is released, the LC moves aggressively to the right.

Wondering if there is some sort of drag on the right side, brakes, wheel bearing issue, etc. Currently have 1300 miles on the odo. Picture of the alignment posted below.

Appreciate thoughts or comments.
IMG_0185.jpg
 

cboyd

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Jan 5, 2013
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Topsfield, MA
try flipping the front tires left/right. I had a tire that was causing a pull even though the alignment was 100%

google Radial Tire Conicity.

EDIT: oops, I see you changed wheels and tires, so this probably isn't the issue. Leaving the comment here anyway
 
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Joined
Feb 8, 2016
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Denver
Why don’t you go to dealer and let them figure it out since it’s under warranty?
Agreed. In retrospect, I wish I would have addressed pre-lift. Now with a lift, I am sure I will hear that it has something to do with the aftermarket lift and hence not a Toyota problem. But this is certainly a scenario I intend to pursue. However, I wanted to post this thread to solicit thoughts and be better armed with info prior to playing the Toyota warranty card.
 
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Jun 11, 2013
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428
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Kentucky
The caster settings on your truck would be a problem on mine. I would increase them to the max you can reach within spec. It will make the truck track a bit better and reduce steering input. Merely having a setting equal side to side may not be correct because the truck typically has some biases built into it because all of its component parts were rarely perfect. Find an experienced alignment tech not just someone who makes all the lights green.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
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Location
Denver
The caster settings on your truck would be a problem on mine. I would increase them to the max you can reach within spec. It will make the truck track a bit better and reduce steering input. Merely having a setting equal side to side may not be correct because the truck typically has some biases built into it because all of its component parts were rarely perfect. Find an experienced alignment tech not just someone who makes all the lights green.
Great point. What caster setting and wheel size are you running? I have 285/70r18 pushing the space limit.

The shop that did the lift moved caster forward enough to stay off the frame behind the wheel with mud flaps removed while avoiding rub on the front fender well not pushing too far positive. I was expecting to need +4* caster to get off the rear frame (like my 4Runner).
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Kentucky
Great point. What caster setting and wheel size are you running? I have 285/70r18 pushing the space limit.

The shop that did the lift moved caster forward enough to stay off the frame behind the wheel with mud flaps removed while avoiding rub on the front fender well not pushing too far positive. I was expecting to need +4* caster to get off the rear frame (like my 4Runner).
Just shy of 4. Could not reach 4 on both sides so I backed off. I run the 285x70R17 on RW wheels. So I have more elbow room. I even spoke to Slee about changing out the upper control arms in my search for a touch more caster. It was not a common request for them. I never did it. Personally, I think the steering is over boosted a touch and that makes the steering overly sensitive. I think I understand the tradeoffs if you are in something challenging in 4WL but, personally, I would reduce the boost. Usually when I argue with what Toyota engineered I finally figure out they were ahead of me all along. Tires vary in their innate tracking ability. For a whole slew of reasons.
 
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Feb 8, 2016
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Denver
Do a little reading on your negative thrust angle
Good heads up on that. Now the question, what is an acceptable thrust angle and how to fix if not within specs? Is an adjustable pan hard a potential solution to pull or push the rear back in line with the front axle?

I went to a different shop today and they provided the following specs. SAI readings seems high as well. While I plan a visit to the Toyota dealer, any thoughts or recommendations and what should be done to address?
C57C4788-72CF-41EF-B9EA-D5E782F27E36.jpeg


Thanks to everyone that has chimed in with great advice and comments.
 
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Joined
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New Orleans, LA
Good heads up on that. Now the question, what is an acceptable thrust angle and how to fix if not within specs? Is an adjustable pan hard a potential solution to pull or push the rear back in line with the front axle?

I went to a different shop today and they provided the following specs. SAI readings seems high as well. While I plan a visit to the Toyota dealer, any thoughts or recommendations and what should be done to address?

Thanks to everyone that has chimed in with great advice and comments.
Acceptable would be close to 0.

The pan hard bar just shifts the axle left or right, not rotating the axle like you need. Going the non dealer/warranty route would be adjustable rear control arms to rotate the axle. Or just return it to stock and not worry about fighting the dealer lol.

I would get the rear axle straight as possible and then add a little more negative camber on the passenger front. I like to see a .3 degree difference between the front with the passenger being more negative.
 
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