Need Help...Thinking about going to a 100 Series

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SoCal_80

SoCal_80

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Threads
195
Messages
1,517
Location
So Cal
OK...So here is the deal. I LOVE my 80 and I have completely built it to suit my needs (perhaps way over built to tell the truth). I have found that most of its use if for running up to the cabin on the weekends and 4-5 trips per year on mostly fire roads, desert 2-track and mild rocks, etc. A good friend has a 100 series, white, 125k miles, all records etc .A great 100 series by all accounts. That said, it is bone stock (which might be a good thing) and will need to be built up slightly (perhaps bumpers, lift tires, sliders). My questions are, should I make the jump to the newer truck and if so, what can expect (best guesses) to get for my 80?
Specs for my 80 are as follows:

-1993
· 148,000 miles (probably slightly lower as the gears and tires are spinning it up slightly faster). No known issues at all. Runs great
· 4:88 gears
· ARB air lockers front and rear
· Completely rebuilt front and rear axles, etc). Birfs are original.
· Newer tie-rod ends
· Newer brakes
· ARB front bumper w/ Smitybuilt 10k winch (just started swapping out my lights (photo shows old PIAA lights) so may include yet to be wired TJM 220 lights and Slee switch and wiring kit)[/FONT][/COLOR]
· Kaymar Rear with tire swingout and Vision LED camplight
· Hannibal Roof rack
· Hannibal Awning
· Hanna Interior Cargo Carriers
· Alpine head unit
· New pioneer speakers behind factory grills
· SROR sliders
· Newer BFG AT 285/75/16’s
· Snorkel w/Donaldson pre-cleaner
· Escape Gear fron seat covers
· Interior is in great condition
· Nothing broken
· Will include Yaesu 8800R remote mount kit mounted to rearview mirror (may include radio for $$)
· Diamond antenna
· Boxes of misc parts: fender flares, Rover OEM cup holders,…
· New OEM 2nd party tray, parts etc that will need to be installed (can include new National Luna battery isolator/solenoid)
· Rear wired with Blue Sea 12v outlets for fridge
· Wired for trailer brakes
· All major work (axles, airlockers, brakes, tie-rod) done by Eric @ YotaMasters

Any idea what I could sell this for in the current market? Again, any help and advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Sean


A random shot of my truck:
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Nothing? Come on guys...I know there are some opinions out there. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Take what Edmunds or other sites say the truck is worth stock and then start adding all your mods at 50% of their retail value as a start. You limit your market with all the mods to like minded folks like us in the offroad community, but that's about the only place you'll get anywhere close to what your mods are worth. Watching modded trucks sell here in the past is tough. So many want to build up their own trucks and some are willing to have let someone else do it. Downside of the later is that as the builder, you have a labor of love factor that knowbody else will pay for and that's the hardest part of pricing a well built truck like yours.
 
Sounds like for what you are doing a 100 will work just fine. It's a lot better daily driver then the 80 is. No idea what you could get for the 80. Someone will be stoked to buy it.
 
overall the 80 is going to be a better all around 4x4 as it has a solid axle front, that being said the 100's are super nice setup and are great overlanding trucks. I would prefer the 80 as I still want to do harder trails (1x a year) and still be comfortable on overlanding/camping trips. I say if you don't plan to run the rubicon, dusy and other harder trails and will stick to overlanding type stuff then go for the 100. Power is better with the 100 too which is nice if you ever need to tow.

As far as what you will get for the 80, that is a crapshoot, I like the other person's comment on 50% of value new for the mods, that is probably fairly accurate.
 
Considering your low miles and upgrades I would think $10-12k is pretty likely.
 
Thank you guys!
 
Sean off topic question. How is it towing long range with 4.88 gears? I am thinking about going 5.29 from 4.88 since I will be towing a trailer more often.

How about a v8 swap? For the cost of a low mileage 100 you could have way more power with an LS1swap. I have kicked around the idea of moving to a 100 but I love my 80 too much.
 
fjc8871 said:
How about a v8 swap? For the cost of a low mileage 100 you could have way more power with an LS1swap. I have kicked around the idea of moving to a 100 but I love my 80 too much.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the exact same thing.
 
Once you go down the swap road you are committing yourself to (likely) spending more time wrenching than wheeling.

I have 3 project vehicles right now and the idea of selling everything for a nice, new, 100 series is getting very appealing.
 
fjc8871 said:
Sean off topic question. How is it towing long range with 4.88 gears? I am thinking about going 5.29 from 4.88 since I will be towing a trailer more often.

How about a v8 swap? For the cost of a low mileage 100 you could have way more power with an LS1swap. I have kicked around the idea of moving to a 100 but I love my 80 too much.
Click to expand...
I pretty much (with the assistance of my wife ) have decided to stick with the 80 for the time being. So that said, I am very happy with the 4:88's. The power I need and I can still cruise at 65-70 w/o over-revving the heck out of the motor. On anything but the steepest of grades the current setup is great. That said Dave (SOCALIFJ) is running 5:29's and can/has pulled away from me going up the Cajon pass (although I think he is heavier on the skinny pedal than I am). Depending on what trailer you are pulling I think 4:88's will work out well. I guess it also depends on what size tires you are running or plan to run (I am on 285's).
 
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