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Need advice painting my 97 80

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by Anvil, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. Anvil

    Anvil

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    I'm sure this has been covered... but I haven't found it. If there is a thread, please point me in the right direction.

    I restored a 40 and painted it several years ago, and liked the results. However, I took the panels down to bare metal. So I do have some experience...

    I now have a 1997 Fzj80 with chalky white paint. I want to repaint and keep the same color. There are a couple of small dents to repair... That said, what is the best procedure? I am not looking for show quality or bed liner. Yes, it will receive a few pinstripes in it's future travels, and I am fine with that.

    Any help will be much appreciated. Thank you!

    :popcorn:
     
  2. bwakeling

    bwakeling

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    I am doing the same thing on mine right now. POR15 base and topped with 2k urethane. Rolled an brushed on. Already has bedliner on the lower half so I am ok with some texture. Rustoleum would also be an easy roll on project.
     
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  3. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    I will be doing the same with my FJ60. Plan is that I will spray in my garage, will "rough up" current bad spray job (not going to bare metal) then throw rustoleum primer over it. Will run that for a few weeks probably while it cures and then will shoot a Sherwin Williams Single Stage Farm Implement paint over it. The farm implement paint is supposed to be a harder more durable enamel that comes in standard colors with some other colors mixable. From there you can either shoot as a standard single stage or add hardner to it to allow you to sand between coats.
     
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  4. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    Just get rid of the chalk and use the rest as a primer. Dents should really be roughed to a bare metal finish of more than 80 grit (like 40), then filler. Sand filler with 36 on a block. Putty coat (like Bondo but finer) to blend to the paint, the sand with 80 grit. Some kind of filler primer next over all 80 grit marks, then 180 grit the primer (if non metallic), then a ppg dp 90 type sealer. Then top coat.
     
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  5. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    Btw, if it is a white, locked, 97 Collectors Edition just sell it to me! Or trade for my Desert Dune Locked CE!
     
  6. Anvil

    Anvil

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    Thanks for the replies! Work has gotten in the way of progress.

    I hope to tackle this task in January. I forgot to mention, I have a shop with 10 hp air compressor... air and space is not a problem.

    Dogfishlake, Ha! My Fzj80 actually is a white, locked, 97!
     
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  7. IndecentExposur

    IndecentExposur

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    Are you looking for one of these?

    IMG_3552.JPG
     
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  8. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    That's the one. Nice truck
     
  9. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    Unicorn.

    Since the white paint is single stage with no clear from the factory, you should give a wool pad machine compounding followed by foam pad machine polishing a chance to save as much original paint as possible, it works wonders. Check out paintless dent removal too, it can surprise you how much can be saved. Then you might just have some spot painting from there.

    When you are done, wax the sh*t out of it with good stuff (I'm a big Meguiars fan) a few times a year. You will be amazed how well a waxed surface resists the "pinstriping" from brush scrapes.

    An original white 80 is a terrible thing to waste!
     
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  10. IndecentExposur

    IndecentExposur

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    Agreed. I'm in the process of restoring our white 97 collectors edition.

    Look up "chemical guy's" on you tube and their website. Before you start with wool, look into their whole system with the torque X. We went from scratched up faded paint to mirror shine.

    We also have steam cleaned all door jams and edging where the polisher can't get to.

    PM me with questions or pictures.
     
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  11. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    This is great advice if you want to see sanding scratches underneath your new paint.

    If you’re going to use a sealer, It should only be applied over your final prepared surface. This should be your high build sanded with 400-600 grit. Final sanding with 180 will be a HUGE mistake
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2017
  12. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    I'm good with overkill so good advice.

    Like I said 180 then sealer then topcoat for NON METALLIC paint (Could play safe and go 220 and still not go grey sanding). If using metallic paint, 320 grit then sealer will work. Perhaps paint systems have changed since I left the biz many years ago but if all undercoats are properly cured a non metallic paint will fill that scratch.

    I don't mind being disagreed with (or corrected) but I have done this method many times with positive result.

    Your method will certainly work as it is more rather than less which is fine if you have the time.
     
  13. stevezero

    stevezero SILVER Star

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    Chalk can be removed with a good compound and buffer. you don't have anything to lose by trying that first before you sand and paint. 045 white paint from the factory is single stage paint, no clear coat.

    My 97 was horrible looking. After a weekend dancing with a rotary, then orbital buffer, it looked like a totally different animal. there are spots I'll need to paint, but not much.
     
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  14. dogfishlake

    dogfishlake Karoshi Supporting Vendor SILVER Star

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    100% agree with @stevezero , don't give up trying to save the factory paint first, it might surprise you, and save a ton of money!
     
  15. dirtyboots

    dirtyboots Atrocious Driving SILVER Star

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    @bwakeling and @gregnash do y’all have a link or more details about this process? Is this similar to a two stage?
     
  16. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

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    Unfortunately I am completely new at this too so my information is limited to my searches on YouTube and talking with friends that have been painters in the past.

    Basic understanding that I have is that two-stage is more involved but CAN produce a much longer lasting and better job vs. the simplicity of the single-stage. On top of that, single-stage (I believe) is both the paint and clear in one thus cutting out the step of waiting for the color layer time to dry/cure and then adding a clear coat over the top of it. But, from what I have seen, the clear coat layer adds the capability of "refreshing" the look of the paint over the years simply by sanding/buffing the clear layer. If you cut too deep to the color layer you can then add more clear. Where as with the single-stage you run the risk of running through the color layer straight to primer/metal simply because there is no additional clear layer.

    Again, this is all my very novice understanding of these processes so do your own research to come to your own conclusion.
     
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  17. dirtyboots

    dirtyboots Atrocious Driving SILVER Star

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    kewl thanks for the response..
    Quick search shows POR15 2k urethane is a product offering..on first glance I thought there may be a home brew POR15 base coat with a clear product of another brand going on, i.e., a quasi two stage paint..as I understand it your single and two stage description is correct. My neighbor painted a car single stage and it was so labor intensive I can't imagine doing a two stage base and clear. The POR product is interesting will try and find some more body panel application examples:beer:
     
  18. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    Single stage does not contain any clear.

    Color sanding and buffing are the same for single stage or base clear. If you sand through either one, you’re going to need to take the gun out and spray a whole panel (unless you’re good at blending clear).
     
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  19. bwakeling

    bwakeling

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    I didnt use any clear although POR does offer a 2k clear coat. Cant say how well the paint will hold up long term but I am happy with the dark grey POR 2k I rolled on. Nice thing about a single stage application is it should be easy to fix if I damage a panel again. Between the rust coating and the 2k I think I have about 6 coats on it!
     
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