I think you mean hydraulic suspension (lovingly known as AHC). Air suspension is for Rovers.
Need advice from the group (100/200)
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I think you mean hydraulic suspension (lovingly known as AHC). Air suspension is for Rovers.
100 or 200.... it depends.
The 200 is a more complex vehicle, just compare the 100 Electrical Wiring Diagrams to the 200. The complexity is what makes the 200 more comfortable than the 100. The 100 is smaller and more agile than the 200. I absolutely love my 100, but the 200 is a total game changer on the road. Ventilated seats, KDSS, cool box and the 5.7 that will yield more than 15mpg. It does have ridiculous repairs including starter failures and replacement, heater tee's and the HVAC recirculate door is often busted by Mr. T himself.
I do not believe there is a 100 that I would pay more than $20k for. Anything above that and you could have a 200 for not much more. The simplistic complexity of the 100 is special, but not worth the premium some folks claim.
The 200 is a more complex vehicle, just compare the 100 Electrical Wiring Diagrams to the 200. The complexity is what makes the 200 more comfortable than the 100. The 100 is smaller and more agile than the 200. I absolutely love my 100, but the 200 is a total game changer on the road. Ventilated seats, KDSS, cool box and the 5.7 that will yield more than 15mpg. It does have ridiculous repairs including starter failures and replacement, heater tee's and the HVAC recirculate door is often busted by Mr. T himself.
I do not believe there is a 100 that I would pay more than $20k for. Anything above that and you could have a 200 for not much more. The simplistic complexity of the 100 is special, but not worth the premium some folks claim.
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- #23
Thanks again for the input - I'm torn between at sub-$16k LC100/470 and a $25k LC200/570 with almost 10k price difference, what's the better value?
The 200 would be a better value at the mentioned prices but you are looking at LX since LC are harder to find, just fyi it will be easier to find a 100 at sub 16k all day.
The 200 will take some time to find, in Cali i browse craiglist every so often window shopping the 200s and consistently see 1 owner 08-10 lx570s $20-25k with 100-125k miles you just have to be patient.
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- #25
I scan CL daily - I'm on month 6 of my search, I'm sure many of you can relate... I'm about $1200 in to PPIs on these 100s
I scan CL daily - I'm on month 6 of my search, I'm sure many of you can relate... I'm about $1200 in to PPIs on these 100s
yep, lx470 took me 1 year to find because my budget was under 10k and wanted a clean example so had certain criteria to meet, i would not take any 100 i was looking for value. Lucked out at jeep dealer $8k 2001 1 owner trade in at 188k miles babied all its life at lexus dealer. Don't skip checking dealers. 2 years of ownership all its needed is fluid baseline and a timing belt service, love the reliability.
The difference between a 200 vs 100 in your use scenario is basically more power. Both will perform equally off-road, hold about the same amount of stuff, and similar comfort. Some of us consider the 100 has more charm, smoother engine, and looks better, but those are up to you.
So the deciding factor for you is budget
If your budget is truly 25k buy a 100 LX/LC. Gotta be rust free, and stock. If you’re anal like alot of us here you’re gonna wanna get it in top mechanical shape, spend about 2k on consumables(fluids, hoses, rad, brakes), another 1k on good tires, And maybe another 1k getting the interior in good shape. 100 option makes the most financial sense and that’s what I like.
If you can spend more, get the 200. as @Trunk Monkey says, buy the newest landcruiser you can afford. I don’t think you are gonna get into 200s for 25k. You might get one of cheaper 200s for sale, but you wont have anything left in your budget to baseline one of the cheapest 200s available.
I personally don’t think the 200 is worth the higher price tag, but you get the bigger engine.
So as long as you realize getting into reliable, baselined 200 territory is more like 30k, and can swing it, the “best” vehicle is the 200 all day. But the economical, and “wise” option is the 100. I see no reason to spend more money for the marginal improvement. That’s why I have 2 100s.
So the deciding factor for you is budget
If your budget is truly 25k buy a 100 LX/LC. Gotta be rust free, and stock. If you’re anal like alot of us here you’re gonna wanna get it in top mechanical shape, spend about 2k on consumables(fluids, hoses, rad, brakes), another 1k on good tires, And maybe another 1k getting the interior in good shape. 100 option makes the most financial sense and that’s what I like.
If you can spend more, get the 200. as @Trunk Monkey says, buy the newest landcruiser you can afford. I don’t think you are gonna get into 200s for 25k. You might get one of cheaper 200s for sale, but you wont have anything left in your budget to baseline one of the cheapest 200s available.
I personally don’t think the 200 is worth the higher price tag, but you get the bigger engine.
So as long as you realize getting into reliable, baselined 200 territory is more like 30k, and can swing it, the “best” vehicle is the 200 all day. But the economical, and “wise” option is the 100. I see no reason to spend more money for the marginal improvement. That’s why I have 2 100s.
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- #28
Alright... So who's 100 am I buying? I'm done with dealers... I would feel much more confident buying from someone here!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Maybe me? After I get my trailer from Eugene to Albuquerque later this month, I'll be looking for a 200 and selling my 100 privately.
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- #30
I should say - whose 100 or 200 am I buying? Don’t want to exclude a well priced 200!
My pleasure! Feel free to message me if you need any other info about carseats, booster seats, rooftop cargo boxes or whatever. My wife was skeptical of me buying an 11 year old vehicle with 100k miles on it. She's since been won over and we now have three toyotas in the family. (2005 sequoia w140k, 1998 4Runner 190k and my LC w185k). All the best.
I've got an '02 LX that's mostly sorted if you want to check it out. Not really looking to sell, but would if you're really interested. It's mostly sorted, but a bit crusty due to being from Toledo OH. I just haven't gotten around to dealing with the surface rust. Anyway, reach out if you even just want some seat time in it as a "baseline" stock LX.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
On that note, my 01 LX is fully set up for towing (4+7 pin plug, airbags, tip top AHC). About 200k miles, all of the rubber bits underneath are sorted out, TB/WP done at 180k, LTXs at 9/32", underneath is not pristine but there is no cancer, all fluids (I do mean every fluid) replaced 15k miles ago (oil twice since then), new front wheel bearings going in within a week before it's final towing adventure.
Dry as a bone, and bonus is that the OEM bumpers have marks at every corner so it is a prime candidate for armor.
Dry as a bone, and bonus is that the OEM bumpers have marks at every corner so it is a prime candidate for armor.
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- #34
I didn’t expect the threat to turn this way but it sounds like a few of you might have solid 100’s for sale. I would say PM me pictures and info I’m happy to take a look. Not ready to conclude this thread just yet! I am leaning toward a lower cost 100 series though, it sounds like my all-in cost is going to be higher than 25k for a 200 series unless I find a bargain. Would prefer a 200, but I would be happy to have any land cruiser right now after this exhausting search!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Land cruiser only or LX as well?
You're coming from a 958 Turbo S? All I can say is have no expectations. You're talking about a vehicle with about 1500lbs more weight and half the power. Along with an ancient infotainment.
Also it's not unheard of to drop $10k just in refurbishment to refresh one of these right after buying. These things are 14-23 years old now.
Also it's not unheard of to drop $10k just in refurbishment to refresh one of these right after buying. These things are 14-23 years old now.
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- #37
Lexus as well!
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- #38
Love my Cayenne, but fixing a timing belt and a pump now and then sure beats swapping Pilot Sports twice a year and $4-6k annually for service and maintenance (averaged across OOW repair). I couldn’t ever take it hunting or fishing, it has even less fuel economy and demands premium (avg. 10mpg). I’m a dad now, I built an old cruiser with my dad growing up, those are memories I couldn’t pass along with a Cayenne
Agree completely. I bought a ‘99 that is rust free but as due for fluids etc. It was in great shape but I wanted to know it was ready for another 120k miles + so I have sunk some $ in it to make that possible. I knew what I was getting into and am happy I have done it right. It isn’t cheap but it should last a long time now with regular maintenance.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Let's have some fun and generalize here. I'd put most LC/LX owners in three general camps, which can be subdivided until you're blue in the face, regarding mainteance.
1. Change oil when remembering to do it, replace tires and brakes when they are shot. PERHAPS follow Mr. T maintenance schedule.
2. Follow Mr. T maintenance schedule, use mostly OEM parts, replace what breaks when it breaks (fuel pump, steering rack, bushings, radiator, etc.)
3. PM advocates. These folks will pre-emptively replace parts that show "enough wear", because they are "working in that area already", or the parts are potentially past their "designed average service lifetime".
You'll probably find #3 claim the highest cost of ownership, but their rigs get the most $$$ when selling since their approach keeps the rig in general in tip top shape.
I'm a solid #2, and my rig would sell as such even with the myriad of coffee stains, nicks in the door cards, etc.
No, I'm not saying I'm a solid piece of s#it, although I'm sure some would beg to differ!
1. Change oil when remembering to do it, replace tires and brakes when they are shot. PERHAPS follow Mr. T maintenance schedule.
2. Follow Mr. T maintenance schedule, use mostly OEM parts, replace what breaks when it breaks (fuel pump, steering rack, bushings, radiator, etc.)
3. PM advocates. These folks will pre-emptively replace parts that show "enough wear", because they are "working in that area already", or the parts are potentially past their "designed average service lifetime".
You'll probably find #3 claim the highest cost of ownership, but their rigs get the most $$$ when selling since their approach keeps the rig in general in tip top shape.
I'm a solid #2, and my rig would sell as such even with the myriad of coffee stains, nicks in the door cards, etc.
No, I'm not saying I'm a solid piece of s#it, although I'm sure some would beg to differ!