Nav to Non-Nav Conversion Walkthrough

[M3GX]

My Canbus is set to null-null. I am using a trigger wire for the backup camera, which the PO had installed for my PX6. I think it's actually tied into the rear reverse lights at the back of the rig but I don't totally recall. My camera is wired with a RCA cable that has a red power wire included.

Also I have the older Joying unit with the volume knob, rather than the newer one you posted.

Did you hook up the white and red RCA cables? They go from the Joying harness into the back of the Joying. Perhaps it's why the amp is not working. If those are hooked up right I'm betting you have a bad unit or another problem as these should be plug-and-play.

Sounds like I have to do a trigger wire. But we'll see what Joying comes back with.

I DID NOT have the RCA cables from the harness hooked up to the HU. But what are those for, the sub? The amp did work before, just none of the canbus settings that change the amp, sounds right. I'm getting a lot more distortion when I turn up the volume than I used to.

And just for clarification, the only thing that isn't working right for me is really the backup camera. And that's because I assumed no need for a trigger wire, like in the other two vehicles I've installed Joying in. It worked out of the box with OEM backup camera in my 2014 Tacoma. And in my 2010 Jeep Wrangler, it worked without a trigger wire using Joying's AHD Backup camera.

 

[Rednexus]

Sounds like I have to do a trigger wire. But we'll see what Joying comes back with.

I DID NOT have the RCA cables from the harness hooked up to the HU. But what are those for, the sub? The amp did work before, just none of the canbus settings that change the amp, sounds right. I'm getting a lot more distortion when I turn up the volume than I used to.

And just for clarification, the only thing that isn't working right for me is really the backup camera. And that's because I assumed no need for a trigger wire, like in the other two vehicles I've installed Joying in. It worked out of the box with OEM backup camera in my 2014 Tacoma. And in my 2010 Jeep Wrangler, it worked without a trigger wire using Joying's AHD Backup camera.

I'm betting your sound will improve if you plug the red/white RCA cables from the Joying harness into the back of the Joying. I almost didn't plug them in until I inspected the back of my PX6 and saw that it had the same two RCA cables in the harness as the Joying, and they were plugged into the back of the PX6. But, I'm not sure what they actually do (possibly for the sub, or for the amp???).

 

[M3GX]

I'm betting your sound will improve if you plug the red/white RCA cables from the Joying harness into the back of the Joying. I almost didn't plug them in until I inspected the back of my PX6 and saw that it had the same two RCA cables in the harness as the Joying, and they were plugged into the back of the PX6. But, I'm not sure what they actually do (possibly for the sub, or for the amp???).

I plugged them in but couldn't tell a difference. I'll try and play with it more tomorrow. I still have it all disassembled for now since I forgot to order the OEM brackets to hold it all in place.

 

[M3GX]

Joying is going to exchange it for the new version. They said hang on to the optional accessories, pay the price difference for the new unit, and ship the old unit w/harness to their US Warehouse in TX. So I'll do that tomorrow.

 

[Rednexus]

That is a pretty good deal! Looking forward to actually driving with mine. Unlike the PX6, I can actually see the screen when wearing polarized sunglasses.

 

[M3GX]

Ordered new OEM non-nav mounting brackets from Japan off Ebay for $42
Dropped off "old" Joying unit at USPS + $17
Price difference between old and and new unit + $220

Hopefully the new unit comes in pretty quickly since it's coming from their US Location. They actually said non of these units are available in their Chinese warehouse yet.

Pending their reply, but if they have this new unit available for my 2010 Jeep JK, then I'll upgrade that as well. That one is now two versions older than this new "high-end" unit.

The biggest change in hardware between these old and new units, is that the newer one has 5G Cell support. The current 4G signals have started to get shoddy reception. And I rely almost solely on the Native apps like YT Music and Google Maps. I rarely every attach my phone for Android Auto. Kinda defeats the purpose of these Adroid based head units. This newer unit also seems to have better GPS receptions. Which is also a bonus since my Jeep doubles as a trail rig, where cell receptions isn't always available on the CO trails, while GPS using downloaded maps usually does.

 

[M3GX]

Interesting read on the Key/Can switch on the front of the Joying. I'll have to mess with that on the new unit. Basically guy was having issues with steering wheel controls not working, then flipped the switch and bam, working. Even though the instructions he got, same as what came with mine, said to make sure it was in the Key setting.

It also allows the HU to read all the other can settings. Apparently if you have a canbus decoder that should be switched to Can.

"KEY sets the KEY-1 and KEY-2 steering wheel control input wires to be setup for the old school analog 'Resistsnce-to-ground' based steering wheel controls a lot of vehicles had, where each steering wheel control button simply was a different resistor and would connect to ground through the different resistance values so the radio could sense and tell exactly which button was being pressed...

With that style steering wheel controls, you could go into the SWC Leaning many in the radio and 'learn & assign' each button press to a specific function that you wanted each button to do when you press them... Such as assign one button to do volume up, another to do volume down, make one be pause/play, one do next-song, one do previous-song, one be a shortcut to GPS navigation app, etc etc etc etc...

Now, whem set to CAN, it changes the radio over to accept can-bus data signal through those 2 wires instead, for vehicles that instead require a can-bus decoder brain-box to tie into the vehicles computer system to read and interpret all the canbus data signals and incorporate them to the radio for not only digital steering wheel controls (without having to use the SWC Learning app on the radio to assign/learn them) but it can also tie into the cars computer system to tell things like when a door is opened or closed, AC Control information on screen when you make changes to your HVAC settings, it can sometimes even tie into the cars infotainment system to show lile tire pressures, oil change intervals, miles per gallon, etc etc etc all via canbus signal through a canbus decoder... All that is usually for these much more newer vehicles and a lot of German designed cars for instance..."

 

[Rednexus]

FWIW, mine is set to "Key", and the SWCs worked after I manually set them in the Joying. I'll be curious how yours works with it on CAN...it certainly seems odd that we'd have a CANBUS decoder if the HU is not using any CANBUS outputs/inputs .

 

[M3GX]

Bookmarking this for backup cam issue. Will check on the new unit but I think I remember another person having an issue with a wire not going anywhere on the adapter.

Tips for OEM Backup Camera Connection: https://www.joyingauto.com/blog/category/head-unit-problems-solved?page=2

But the more I think about it, the more I'm convinced that Key/Can switch would benefit from being flipped to Can. I checked on the Jeep and it doesn't have that switch at all. It displays the door being open on the screen, but that's about all tbh. Jeep doesn't have any steering wheel controls. Worth experimenting with on the GX

 

[M3GX]

So, the new Joying unit came with instructions to set it to CAN...but also the instructions that say set it to Key lol. At least it looks like the key instructions said to follow the cabling guide. Still no automatic reverse cam without the trigger wire, but I've got a few things to test before completely ruling it out. Also need to re-play around with the different Canbus settings on the HU. Only tried one so far but no dice

The screen is very obviously better then the previous version. Aside from the much higher resolution, the touch capacitor seems to be more responsive.

Gonna be on a snowboard trip most of the week so might not have it all sorted until next Sunday

 

[M3GX]

Ebay seller never sent the brackets nor responded to messages so everything is just clipped atm. and the main unit just sitting behind the screen in the cavity

 

[Rednexus]

Looks nice! Definitely a bit bigger screen than my older model (which I am still super happy with after using it for a few weeks).

 

[tmaranda]

Sent ya a PM

I was able to source another 60771 unit and just confirmed it works, blows cold air on the driver side. That's about all I know to do, maybe the unit I have would work for someone who doesn't have a 11/04 build date? I'll swap them out this weekend.

I've got a 12/04 build date and a 60771 unit, but my driver's side only blows cold. My passenger side has full range of output air temps. I purchased a new servo and no luck. Any idea what causes this? Someone else recommended splicing the driver side into the passenger side. Not ideal, but better than nothing.

 

[M3GX]

Brackets finally arrived from Japan

 

[CleggyZ28]

I've got a 12/04 build date and a 60771 unit, but my driver's side only blows cold. My passenger side has full range of output air temps. I purchased a new servo and no luck. Any idea what causes this? Someone else recommended splicing the driver side into the passenger side. Not ideal, but better than nothing.

I was able to source another 60771 unit and lucked out that it blows heat and cold on the drivers side now, though still doesn't feel as strong on the drivers side as I think it should. If you still have your old nav unit, you can plug it into the plugs on the firewall and confirm that heat/cold/defrost is working on both sides.

My other theory is that the non-nav controls are aged just as much as the rest of our trucks and could be not giving enough signal to the blend doors, but I'm at the limit of my know-how to confirm that. I feel like it works good enough I don't really want to tear out the whole dash again kinda mood.

Might could reach out on GXOR FB to see if there's others who've had similar issues and fixes.

 

[tmaranda]

I was able to source another 60771 unit and lucked out that it blows heat and cold on the drivers side now, though still doesn't feel as strong on the drivers side as I think it should. If you still have your old nav unit, you can plug it into the plugs on the firewall and confirm that heat/cold/defrost is working on both sides.

My other theory is that the non-nav controls are aged just as much as the rest of our trucks and could be not giving enough signal to the blend doors, but I'm at the limit of my know-how to confirm that. I feel like it works good enough I don't really want to tear out the whole dash again kinda mood.

Might could reach out on GXOR FB to see if there's others who've had similar issues and fixes.

I've tried on FB and Reddit without much luck. I really need to get the dash back together before this weekends storm, so I might try doing the jumper technique.

 

[KadoKalin]

Does anyone have pictures of how they wired a standard 16-pin double-din radio into their existing wiring? I have 3 connectors: 2 different 20-pin and a 12-pin. the 2 images show the 6 connectors from the vehicle (the 4 white ones went into the back of the nav unit). The other pic is the harness for the bolted plug and my 16-pin Kenwood radio.

 

[Rednexus]

I'd get a pre-made connection harness. Otherwise, you are going to need to comb through the FSM to verify the radio pinout (presumably you have a non-nav rig), cut the OEM harness, and connect things. I have a couple old harnesses and CANBUS interface modules from the two dead Phoenix PX6 radios I have. If you want one PM me.

 

[KadoKalin]

I'd get a pre-made connection harness. Otherwise, you are going to need to comb through the FSM to verify the radio pinout (presumably you have a non-nav rig), cut the OEM harness, and connect things. I have a couple old harnesses and CANBUS interface modules from the two dead Phoenix PX6 radios I have. If you want one PM me.

I had the nav, but converting to non-Nav. I already bought the climate control and verified it works. Just trying to get my Kenwood radio plugged in. i have it working now, but have no sound. I assume it's because I don't have the tx+ and tx- plugged in. idk where to plug those in.

 

[Sixto Lezcano]

Not sure if this would help, it’s a thread specifically about harness for this conversion. I’m not an electrical guy so I paid for one

Thread 'DIY Non-Nav Harness Extension'

Feb 6, 2025

This is also posted in the GXOR FB group. I'll link this over to the Non-Nav Conversion thread as well. Still trying to figure out how to link the circuit board files here, but they're available on the GXOR FB page under the files section.

Hopefully, this guide will help to create a simple and very reliable wiring extension that does not involve any cutting, soldering (save for the circuit board plug connections) or permanent modifications to your factory harness.

1. Disclaimer​

I am providing this guide to assist others and for others to improve upon this design. It...

• CleggyZ28
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