Build My first '40 and the venture
- Thread starter OlYellr
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OlYellr
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- #1,402
No this year. This CA detail got longer and now they are moving me to another position Mid-May affecting when I can take leave.
- soon I’m flying out to NE and driving YELLR back to CA and enjoy what the area has when I have time off.
Black Hills was great with you all last year. Sad I will miss it.
And if you want to come here and ride, got room.
You still thinking WY
Yep. That'll be August 17th through the 21st.
Damn!! taking 2 weeks of for Colorado and Wyoming
. I guess I can't really say anything, I am going to Idaho for 10 days in June, probably Cali for a couple days and Colorado for SAS
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Damn!! taking 2 weeks of for Colorado and Wyoming
I'm not doing Solid Axle Summit this year.
3 in a row, time to see some different country. I love the San Juans though. I'm kicking around doing a brief camping trip in September. Hard to say. I'm planning on going to Atlanta for a few days to a woodworking equipment show. I don't know if I'll be able to peel away from work any more this year.
Oh? What part? Rubithon in a couple months...
Sac used to be cool, back when I lived in Mid-town. There wasn't really a local LandCruiser club per se, just a handful of beer swilling 'Cruiserheads. Some are still around...
RevISK
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I went to 5th and 6th grade somewhere off the Garden Highway… sac sucked then. Later I used to go to some crazy shows at the Cattle Club and sac sucked slightly less.Sac used to be cool, back when I lived in Mid-town. There wasn't really a local LandCruiser club per se, just a handful of beer swilling 'Cruiserheads. Some are still around...
RevISK
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Get after it son!
RevISK
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God bless you sir.
Those look like sinus clearing dogs!
OlYellr
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- #1,418
Not sure where to begin… so I’ll just start where the plan was before it went sideways. Brought over the roll bars I powder coated a few years ago—period correct pieces in found in WI. You can tell by the tabs (see pics). Don’t ask me the exact year that started… I just know they belong. (Had everything that was originally grey powdered (seat backs - need to finish restoring them some day) - all will match one day.)
Here is a better shot of the color...
Then I started looking a little closer at how Yellr was reassembled… and noticed some packing peeking out. That turned into, “well, might as well lift the top and see what’s going on.”
Detour engaged.
Before lifting the roof - installed the hangers that got fresh paint - Put those back on with new OEM Screws to add stability before lifting.
Here is a better shot of the color...
Then I started looking a little closer at how Yellr was reassembled… and noticed some packing peeking out. That turned into, “well, might as well lift the top and see what’s going on.”
Detour engaged.
Before lifting the roof - installed the hangers that got fresh paint - Put those back on with new OEM Screws to add stability before lifting.
OlYellr
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- Thread starter
- #1,419
Took out side member bolts - stuff up front too so could lift it all. Realize now don't have a shot - Jammed 2x4 on the sides next to B-pillar to let is all rest.
Lifting the rear
The “rubber” (or whatever it used to be) had zero interest in cooperating. Brittle, crumbling, basically done with life. Got it off with some persuasion and found rust underneath—mostly surface stuff. Nothing catastrophic, but enough to justify some elbow grease and a few coats of Rust Reformer. I’ve got new packing and weatherstrip ready to go, so we’ll revisit that properly.
Mixing parts - but old vs new rubber non-the-less
Elbow grease and read for some Rust Reformer...
While I was there, the front windshield weatherstrip was equally toast—so out came the jackhammer (felt like it anyway), and in went new.
Lifting the rear
The “rubber” (or whatever it used to be) had zero interest in cooperating. Brittle, crumbling, basically done with life. Got it off with some persuasion and found rust underneath—mostly surface stuff. Nothing catastrophic, but enough to justify some elbow grease and a few coats of Rust Reformer. I’ve got new packing and weatherstrip ready to go, so we’ll revisit that properly.
Mixing parts - but old vs new rubber non-the-less
Elbow grease and read for some Rust Reformer...
While I was there, the front windshield weatherstrip was equally toast—so out came the jackhammer (felt like it anyway), and in went new.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,420
Now… onto the “fun” part. (Lunch was actually the fun part, but I digress.)
Dash pad install.
Some of you may recall I already cut the opening for the dash light in a previous post. Light was ready, wiring was there, confidence was high. That lasted about 10-15 minutes.
Fishing the wires through the tiny hole and getting the bullet connectors hooked up? Fine. Got that done. But the dash wouldn’t seat. After some head scratching, @solomrus and I realized the metal part of the dash was hitting the light during install even thought there is a slot in the metal for it to slide under.
Pull the light out—dash starts to fit. Okay… progress? So we snake the wires through just enough to reconnect later (not much slack to work with), get the dash into place, and start dealing with the screws.
Which turned into its own little skirmish. I had bought new spacers from City because the originals were… let’s say “historical artifacts.” Couldn’t get them to work with the new dash. Turns out—the new OEM dash already comes with the necessary plastic inserts (see pics). So if you’re buying new dash pad from Uncle Yota, you don’t need those extras. (New to left - old school from City to right).
Finally get the dash secured… time to install the light. Yeah. About that. Doesn’t fit.
The light fixture is just a bit too tall and hits the metal behind it. That’s why the dash wouldn’t go in earlier with the light installed. We’re talking maybe 1/8”, but that’s enough to matter.
OEM screws weren’t long enough anymore, so @solomrus came through, again, with some longer ones and we made it work.
Takeaway: If you’re installing a new OEM dash pad, think long and hard about adding that light. If I had known what I know now, I probably would’ve left it alone and skipped cutting the opening.
Was it terrible? No.
Was it a bit of a PITA? Yeah… kinda.
My working theory is the newer dash pads are just a little less bulkier in that center section compared to original, which is why the light doesn’t play nice anymore. Anyway—progress was made, lessons were learned, and the meat didn't catch fire.
Good enough for the day.
Dash pad install.
Some of you may recall I already cut the opening for the dash light in a previous post. Light was ready, wiring was there, confidence was high. That lasted about 10-15 minutes.
Fishing the wires through the tiny hole and getting the bullet connectors hooked up? Fine. Got that done. But the dash wouldn’t seat. After some head scratching, @solomrus and I realized the metal part of the dash was hitting the light during install even thought there is a slot in the metal for it to slide under.
Pull the light out—dash starts to fit. Okay… progress? So we snake the wires through just enough to reconnect later (not much slack to work with), get the dash into place, and start dealing with the screws.
Which turned into its own little skirmish. I had bought new spacers from City because the originals were… let’s say “historical artifacts.” Couldn’t get them to work with the new dash. Turns out—the new OEM dash already comes with the necessary plastic inserts (see pics). So if you’re buying new dash pad from Uncle Yota, you don’t need those extras. (New to left - old school from City to right).
Finally get the dash secured… time to install the light. Yeah. About that. Doesn’t fit.
The light fixture is just a bit too tall and hits the metal behind it. That’s why the dash wouldn’t go in earlier with the light installed. We’re talking maybe 1/8”, but that’s enough to matter.
OEM screws weren’t long enough anymore, so @solomrus came through, again, with some longer ones and we made it work.
Takeaway: If you’re installing a new OEM dash pad, think long and hard about adding that light. If I had known what I know now, I probably would’ve left it alone and skipped cutting the opening.
Was it terrible? No.
Was it a bit of a PITA? Yeah… kinda.
My working theory is the newer dash pads are just a little less bulkier in that center section compared to original, which is why the light doesn’t play nice anymore. Anyway—progress was made, lessons were learned, and the meat didn't catch fire.
Good enough for the day.