Builds My Costa Rican BJ40 search begins

[handcannon]

Were you capable of making your own lines unlike me?

I did make some of my lines. Most of the lines I used were pre-made straight lines I got from Carquest and bent to fit. When they didn't have what I needed for length or fittings I went to other places here in Albany. I did have to make a few of my own double crimps, and very surprising to me they didn't leak. I only had a cheap Craftsman crimper, that I really had to fight to get good crimps. I used gas welding rod to bend samples before bending the real tubing.

Don

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I had my boys help me bleed the brakes this evening and was hoping for a nice test drive around the neighborhood. That was not the case. I have no brakes. Rundown of components are new Aisin 60 series MC, new 40 series booster from @Racer65, and proportioning valve for the rear, new soft lines up front with new reman calipers. Here is a run down of what I got going on.

Spongy pedal. I am able to build pressure if I pump brakes once or twice.
Hard pedal when vacuum line is disconnected.
Second bleeding saw no air in the system. Same end result.

Any ideas?
Did some reading about others having the same issue from bad MCs. I was going to swap in my 96 80 series MC but I would have to bend my front brake line to connect to the top mounted port. I don't think it would reach so I would need to swap in a test line. I do have another brake line I can bend just ran out of time this evening. I'm taking my 80 out to Big Bend Thursday so I won't have time to trouble shoot anymore till I get back. Maybe a minute or two tomorrow evening when I'm done packing and giving the 80 a once over.

 

[bj40green]

Spongy = air in your brake system. You can compress air but can't compress brake fluid.

 

[Racer65]

Did you check the booster rod to MC clearance?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Did you check the booster rod to MC clearance?

Yes but I will check again. Originally I put a dap of grease on the end to get it just right. Last night I unbolted the MC and watched it nudge forward when the pedal was pressed.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Spongy = air in your brake system. You can compress air but can't compress brake fluid.

That was my thinking as well. I will bleed again. The initial bleed I forced a quart through just to make sure.

 

[handcannon]

I also agree that you still have air in the system. I'm sure you have already done this, but I still have to say it. Make sure the bleeder valves on the pistons are facing up. Otherwise you will never get all the air out. Without me going back to re-read your posts to see if you used stock Toyota cylinders I'm going to assume that you used stock cylinders. But, with aftermarket cylinders I have read of some who have had difficulty getting all the air out even if the bleeders are properly facing up.

I have not experienced this, but have read of some who have "burped" the piston by partially removing the rubber seal and piston at the top of the cylinder to let the last of the air out, then replacing the piston.

Don

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I also agree that you still have air in the system. I'm sure you have already done this, but I still have to say it. Make sure the bleeder valves on the pistons are facing up. Otherwise you will never get all the air out. Without me going back to re-read your posts to see if you used stock Toyota cylinders I'm going to assume that you used stock cylinders. But, with aftermarket cylinders I have read of some who have had difficulty getting all the air out even if the bleeders are properly facing up.

I have not experienced this, but have read of some who have "burped" the piston by partially removing the rubber seal and piston at the top of the cylinder to let the last of the air out, then replacing the piston.

Don

Both front Napa reman calipers have bleeders on top. I haven't replaced anything in the rear yet. I wanted to wait until after fronts were done so I don't have another new item in the mix. They seemed fine before front axle swap and I didn't see any fluid leaking down from the drums last night. I guess I should pull the rear drums to inspect for leaks. It's on my todo list.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I had some time last night to bleed the brakes again. I got a few bubbles out, which was positive, but still have a spongy pedal. Bled some more, no bubbles, but no better on the brakes. I took it for a short drive down the street hoping to vibrate some bubbles loose but didn't have time to bleed again yet due to having to give my neighbor a ride to the ER because he decided to cut his had on a chainsaw. His wife called later to say he had to get 18 stitches. It's the second time I've had to give him a ride there. Last time he fell into his fire pit burning both his hands.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Well I did some more bleeding last night and adjusted the rear cylinders. First I bled the master again and it didn't show any signs of being s***. Front disc calipers bleed fine. When bleeding the rears everything looks good while bleeding until I let it sit for about three seconds. Then I see a bunch of tiny bubbles start to come out. I'm using clear hose over the nipple going into a bottle of fluid so no air can get back up in the system. I put almost a 1/2 gallon of fluid in attempting get the air out.

Question is should I just keep bleeding or should I stop and start finding another issue first? With my simple minded thinking if air is able to get in the system it would be leaking fluid when pressure builds in the same spot?

The rear cylinders are getting replaced eventually and maybe soon if that is my issue.

 

[aljollano]

I'm sure you are bleeding in the right order meaning rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. If I I were you I would keep bleeding.

A.J

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I'm sure you are bleeding in the right order meaning rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. If I I were you I would keep bleeding.

A.J

Yup that the order. I will try again today if I can sneak away.

 

[aljollano]

If you are going to be around next week, I can probably stop by your house and help you.

A.J

 

[Mr Cimarron]

If you are going to be around next week, I can probably stop by your house and help you.

A.J

I think we are going to Arkansas just don't know what day yet. I ran almost 1/2 gallon through with no air coming out but still same results. I am stumped. I'm going to try switching to my spare 80 series MC just to see if it changes anything.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I switched MCs and now I have brakes. Good ass brakes but the rear drums are locking up pretty quick. I imagine this is due to the 80 MC being for front and rear disks? I adjusted the proportional valve all the way both directions and it doesn't cure the rear lockup. Maybe adjust the rear cylinders again? This was all in about 20 minutes but now I'm in a rain delay due to weather.

So I assume the 60 series Aisin MC I got from Rockauto is bunk, correct?

 

[Toyoland66]

If you have a disc master you need a residual valve for the rear drums

Did you bench bleed the master?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

If you have a disc master you need a residual valve for the rear drums

Did you bench bleed the master?

The MC is just temporary until I exchange the other one. Yes I did bench bleed the failed one many times until I realized it was the issue.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I was going to work on Land Cruisers today but it was a perfect day. Partly sunny in the mid 70s. Swell day to test out the 40 with disc brakes, a newly rebuild front axle and new TREs. Since I don't have the top on it and it being winter I knew I had to take advantage of it.
Drove all over town with a pocket full of gift cards to random places. The 40 drove great. The highway wondering wasn't as bad and no more fighting the steering during braking. Even had that moment during a yellow light where you have to gun it or slam on the brakes. With the B the only option is to attemp to stop. I was very impressed it stopped as good as it did even on the uneven road.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I picked up a full float 40 axle yesterday. Thanks @joekatana! It's going to need blasting, paint and a full rebuild. It's probably way overkill for what I need but I want all my vehicles to be full float front and rear. It's what I am used to working on and it makes changing tires much easier by resting the wheel on the hub. I also bought a HF sand blaster over the weekend for this project. Should have time this coming to weekend to play around with it if the weather clears up.

 

[davegonz]

4.10 gears in those?