Monstaliner Bedliner (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So what does this mean for us?

About to embark on lining an LX in, I think, OE white.

Suggestions?

Working on an IH8MUD promo and I can hang around to help you guys without getting flamed? :clap:

Bring me up to speed, what is your OE white.. a Toyota color?
 
I can hang around to help you guys without getting flamed? :clap:

Haha. Good enough for me, since I'll take all the help I can get.

Bring me up to speed, what is your OE white.. a Toyota color?

Yes, as far as I know the Lexus LX 450 and LC 80 white are the same.



image-3316137178.jpg


I'm not wanting to pull door handles, since the interior door skin is deadened and vapor barriers are recently replaced, but wanting to follow the upper body line, like this:



image-3835763197.jpg


(VCcruzr's for credit. Sorry, Derrick. Only pic still on Camera Roll)

Plus needing to door the majority of the roof in same Toyota white.

image-3316137178.jpg


image-3835763197.jpg
 
I have the white chip but haven't seen a white 80 series around here. Willing to mail it off to someone, send me a PM if interested.
 
I'm really liking the Sans Panties color. Received the chip a few weeks ago. At first I wanted OD Green but it's hardly green. Should be called OD Brown :)

San Panties middle, OD Green right

8545522999_da3d08a9bb_h.jpg
 
PM returned.

Thanks again.

@ magnetman,

Local just sprayed another product with good results, so curious your input on spraying.

I'd prefer paint, but succumbing to mediocrity, since it's become rock donkey ( as much as a station wagon can be) and no longer a pseudo restoration.

That said, is it possible to minimize the 70s drywall texture look by spraying, or an inherent trait of the product?

Have there been any issues with white yellowing, to your knowledge? Top coat necessary?
 
Delancy - for the yellowing from what I have read around the web, the product is UV stable so the color should hold true no matter what. This is stated on their website as well and from the guys on here that have used other colors in high heat/uv areas such as AZ and Las Vegas, NV they are happy with the color stability.

As for the drywall/orange peel texture I think that is more a trait of the products and like products. I had a short conversation with MagnetMan about this as I wanted a pretty smooth texture. His advice was that on the second coat to minimize the amount of rollering you do. As the product sets up and becomes more tacky, rolling over it will pronounce the texture of the roller and product. By minimizing the rolling you do this will help alleviate any unwanted texturizing. I have been contemplating getting a small piece of sheet metal and a quart sized container and then testing different types of rollers to see what one would allow for proper disbursement of the product without pronouncing the texture.

However, from what I am gather MagnetMan knows best and I will probably just follow his recommendations.
 
Thanks for the info.

White was always a concern, but based on remarks made by a local liner regarding necessary top coat to prevent yellowing.

If it holds up, I'm sold.

Have only seen a locals spray job with another product and it turned out relatively smooth, which is desired.


image-3613412971.jpg

Not sure why it matters, considering intended usage, but don't want it to look cheap. Considering it appears a junkyard find, now, compared to what I've "invested", guess it's lipstick on a pig, anyway.

I'll offer up as much sheet metal as I can fit in a FedEx or USPS box for your trials.

image-3613412971.jpg
 
Thanks again.

@ magnetman,

Local just sprayed another product with good results, so curious your input on spraying.

I'd prefer paint, but succumbing to mediocrity, since it's become rock donkey ( as much as a station wagon can be) and no longer a pseudo restoration.

That said, is it possible to minimize the 70s drywall texture look by spraying, or an inherent trait of the product?

Have there been any issues with white yellowing, to your knowledge? Top coat necessary?

This was Pyroclastic sprayed. Regarding white Monstaliner yellowing, it does not. ML is an aliphatic urethane which is UV stable. Some of the chemistry used to make commercial spray liners are considered "aromatic" chemistry which does yellow hence the need for topcoating. Aromatics cure much faster which is why they are used for spray systems as time is money for these businesses needing to knock out jobs AFAP. It gets much more complex than this simple explanation.

20130115_211909.jpg
 
Got it.

Waiting on color chip to make sure it's not going to clash.

Hopefully will be able to get help to do, since I hate/suck at any and all forms of painting that aren't matte black from a rattle can.

Guess next question will be how much product to do sides, as described and roof of an 80.
 
Delancy - from what I have gathers, if you are painting the entire exterior of your 80 then 2 gallons should be enough to have to good coats. I am figuring the same for my 60 (1 gallon of each).

MagnetMan - I will take some pictures this weekend of my FJ60 with measurements.
Other question I had is can the Monstaliner be "painted" on with a paint brush or would that cause weird texture? I have blacked out my grill, headlight bezels, etc but used a rattle can and while it is holding up there are a few chips already. Was thinking of grabbing a quart of just plain black and painting it on with a brush as I want a flat appearance. Basically, can it be painted on like the Chassis Saver.
 
I'm a Toyota virgin so do some measurements converted to sq ft

Toyota's don't convert to sq ft, only square meters.

Delancy - from what I have gathers, if you are painting the entire exterior of your 80 then 2 gallons should be enough to have to good coats. I am figuring the same for my 60 (1 gallon of each).

Got it.
 
Magnetman - Did you guys ever figure out the issue with the rollers disintegrating and leaving bits of foam in the paint? This seemed to be a recurring complaint in every forum I've checked. Are you guys supplying different rollers or at least including additional rollers? How many would you recommend using for each gallon of paint?
 
Magnetman - Did you guys ever figure out the issue with the rollers disintegrating and leaving bits of foam in the paint? This seemed to be a recurring complaint in every forum I've checked. Are you guys supplying different rollers or at least including additional rollers? How many would you recommend using for each gallon of paint?

Saw that mentioned yesterday in a few forums but if you look at the timeline that was back in 2010/2011. One of the threads, magnetman stated it was shody construction of the rollers where the glue between the tube and foam would come apart and cause the roller to fail. In the post, they changed vendors in early 2012 and did not have any complaints since.
 
Saw that mentioned yesterday in a few forums but if you look at the timeline that was back in 2010/2011. One of the threads, magnetman stated it was shody construction of the rollers where the glue between the tube and foam would come apart and cause the roller to fail. In the post, they changed vendors in early 2012 and did not have any complaints since.
Yeah I saw that as well but there's been recent issues as well. One was a few months ago from a member here on MUD. Said he ended up with bits of roller all in the paint. So there's still issues. I'm curious if it was ever addressed or if the only answer is to simply buy more rollers.

Anybody use a different roller, like something you can buy locally?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom