Missing bolts

[Tennessee80]

Hey all,

I have 2 bolts missing (have been tightening them recently and now they are gone) under the front axle assembly, on the bottom. there are supposed to be 4, and they hold on the steering arms (dont know the exact word for them...) Can I replace them from a parts store with a similar size bolt? The 2 remaining are tight, so I suppose I can drive short distances. Any help would be appreciated...

Cheers,

Joel

 

[turbocruiser]

Dude, this is very very very dangerous. I really recommend that you don't drive your rig until this is fixed. To answer your question I would order 8 new studs and 8 new nuts from cruiserdan. There is no recommended torque in the FSM for how tight the studs are in the knuckle. I used 35 ftlbs with some high strength loctite on the threads for an added measure of safety. The knuckle is cast so I thought that 35 ftlbs was about as high as I should go. Again, please don't drive your rig till these are fixed.

 

[Beowulf]

Can I replace them from a parts store with a similar size bolt?

Joel,
Sean gave you the correct advice. I will emphasize that these are special studs and hardened nuts. You will also need the cone washers. Do not attempt to use anything but genuine Toyota parts. Get a 10mm (IIRC) female torx socket to install the new studs. You can also use the double-nut method if the torx socket is an issue for you.

Based on your sig line it is obvious that you wheel your junk. Get in the habit of checking these knuckle studs before and after every trail. The last thing you want is for one of those to let loose at 70mph on the trip home. Big tyres and bouncing around in the rocks is hard on the knuckle studs. As you noticed, tightening only the nut is not adequate. You must be sure the stud itself is secure in the knuckle housing; then torque the nut (76 ft/lbs IIRC... check your FSM to be sure)

-B-

 

[tblume]

X3

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

whoa

 

[Tennessee80]

Thanks for the quick response, guys! I just sent C-Dan a PM on the subject, and I might should call his work for an order. I need the parts soon, as I DD my rig for work during the week. Cheers, and have a great weekend!

Joel

 

[Beowulf]

If you need it for Monday morning then call your local dealer.
-B-

 

[sseaman]

If you need it for Monday morning then call your local dealer.
-B-

Good luck in Nashville finding 80s parts

 

[Proven]

So...I came to this from the other thread since B linked it.

Is there a way to check these? can I just go at them with a torque wrengh to make sure they are tight enough, etc? Surely this isn't just "wait and see what happens..."

 

[Beowulf]

Double nut the studs and torque them to ~50 ft/lbs, then torque the fastener to ~70 ft/lbs. If you have the new style knuckle studs you can use a female torx.

-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

I routinely check mine when I change the oil and before any long trip. You're already laying under there to loosen the oil pan drain, so take a wrench with you and give each bolt a tug. If you wheel, I'd check before and after each trip. It's an issue to be aware of.

DougM

 

[turbocruiser]

Double nut the studs and torque them to ~50 ft/lbs, then torque the fastener to ~70 ft/lbs. If you have the new style knuckle studs you can use a female torx.

-B-

B, not to argue at all with you, and again as far as I know there isn't any advertised spec in the FSM but I think that 50 ft/lbs is awfully high for a cast part like this. I used 35 w/ loctite over 15K ago and have had no troubles. Again, not as an argument.

 

[cruiserdan]

The "Standard Bolt Torque Specifications" chart in the manual lists class "4T" and class "6T" studs. The class 6T studs are grooved at the top and it's difficult to tell if the 90126-12005 is marked in that manner.

In any event that chart shows the torque for a 12mm 4T stud to be 35 lb-ft and a 6T to be 53 lb-ft.
Based on the nut torque value of 71 lb-ft I would think that the stud was a 6T but that is only speculation.