Misc Pig Issues - door lock, windows, dome light

[PabloCruise]

I'd like to know too, especially since my dome light can actually be switched 'cause the little lever is still there There are no door switches like newer cars so it cannot be a coutesy light setting.

Has anyone tried turning the headlight switch to see if that turns on the dome light in the third position?

 

[Pighead]

But wait, remember how Mr. T likes to use things in different vehicles, Could our overhead lights also be used in Corollas etc? Y'know, cars that DID have the door switches for the dome light?

There are no door switches like newer cars so it cannot be a coutesy light setting.

Now that is an interesting question...But no. There's only the one hot wire the light.

Has anyone tried turning the headlight switch to see if that turns on the dome light in the third position?

 

[cruiser_guy]

But wait, remember how Mr. T likes to use things in different vehicles, Could our overhead lights also be used in Corollas etc? Y'know, cars that DID have the door switches for the dome light?

Do you know if this is so? If it is, it might be a source for folks who's dome light switch is broken.

 

[Eric Ellis]

Do you know if this is so? If it is, it might be a source for folks who's dome light switch is broken.

Yep, it be true...early Corona's had a exact light and the wagons seem to have had a light at the liftback that was similar to some fj45 dome lights...you just have to find one that is not broken itself or weather rotted.

 

[Pighead]

My little lever is broken as well, I can still turn on the light with a needlenose...
There's only one wire running to the domelight so I don't think turning the headlight switch will turn on the domelight.
I'm thinking it's time for one of those new-fangled LED overhead lights.

 

[n2666s]

Pighead; just a thought about a ghetto rig; you could make a small arm out of JB weld or similar and press the metal part of the arm into it; molding it to where it will clear the dome light housing .........it will set very hard and a lot less brittle than the original plastic; HTH,

Lou

 

[laguna80]

Some updates: the PS door lock seems to be gettingsa little better.

My driver's side door lock was really stiff, like I waesafraid for my key unlockingsit in the morning. I douched that mechanism w/ brake clean and then went in w/ PB Blaster - key runs easy as pie now.

I pulled the dome light cover and found the bulb iesstill good. I noticed light has 3 positions! On, Off and Other? What ies3rd position for?

lol Freudian slip?

 

[Eric Ellis]

lol Freudian slip?

TJS...seems you better quit hanging around that brother in law who sold the proctologists scopes.

I was just thinking of finding any 70's sedan and drilling out the pin's and exchanging switch levers...but actually, I am lazier than that- I'd just buy one if I needed it. My PO pulled his 30+ years ago and gave it to me in a box (he had replaced it with a boat light). Yep, he saved it and the mirrors but threw away the carb.

 

[PabloCruise]

My windows are also hard to roll up, my window glass is lifting out of the base track of the regulator at an angle . Lower your window, remove the door panel , if you can lift your glass out of the base track with litte effort it needs to be reset using a glass bonding glue. One of the lower corners will lift up causing the window to bind against the side tracks. That was my problem.

Lou

I'll shoot some pic's of my window tilted, lifting out of the channel. Just not sure about the ears, but will take a closer look tonight.

Lou

Sorry, I did not take pics. I'm talking about the two parts that extend from the channel the glass is in and bolt to the regulator. On my window only one end was bolted to the regulator the other end was still bolted but the bolted part separated from the window glass.

weatherstrip adhesive, glue, liquid nails....something like that might help.

Revisiting this thread as my DS rear door window keeps pulling out of the channel and pissing me off.

This morning I went to roll down window at work, and even with me pressing down on the window, it seperated.

I am getting much faster at pulling the door panel and reapiring.

What have people used successfully? weatherstrip adhesive? Where to source glass bonding glue? Should I apply to glass and rubber piece?

Seperate issue - door handle on outside of driver's door is not so good at un-latching door. Inside hadle works great. Has anyone fixed this? Am I bending the linkage inside the door to fix this?

 

[n2666s]

best thing is new window regulator rubber.....solved my windows binding on the way down HTH;

Lou

 

[tyama]

I had the same problems a few years ago with my windows so I glued the bottom of the glass to the channel with goop glue and replaced the felt with a thin neoprene foam. I also re greased the mechanical parts. It seems to work okay so far, ty

 

[jkl72-40]

My locks both ds and ps, if you lock it then close the door they pop up is this normal? and my key only works on the ds? i'll lub it tho

 

[cruiser_guy]

My locks both ds and ps, if you lock it then close the door they pop up is this normal?

Mine do the same, I think it is normal. Keys should work on both sides. If necessary you can have the lock re-keyed to match your key for about $15 assuming the lock is not broken.

 

[nuclearlemon]

My locks both ds and ps, if you lock it then close the door they pop up is this normal? and my key only works on the ds? i'll lub it tho

Yes, common thing on older japanese cars to keep you from locking yourself out. you have to push the button or pull the handles like you're opening the door when you close it (on most rigs, not sure if it works on the pig...i just use the key to lock it)

 

[cruiser_guy]

you have to push the button or pull the handles like you're opening the door when you close it (on most rigs, not sure if it works on the pig...i just use the key to lock it)

I don't think that works on the '55 either. I use the key to lock the '55 and hold up the handle on the '60.

 

[Ming89FJ62]

you have to push the button or pull the handles like you're opening the door when you close it (on most rigs, not sure if it works on the pig...i just use the key to lock it)

I don't think that works on the '55 either. I use the key to lock the '55 and hold up the handle on the '60.

I've tried this ane it's never worked on my pigs. I have to lock the rear doors from the front then use the key to lock the doors.

 

[weeboo]

I too have to lock my rear doors, then lock the fronts with the key. I replaced my front locks with a new Toyota pickup lock from Autozone- an exact match. I still get the hard-to-lock problem, sometimes they just don't lock. I always test by trying to open the door after locking.

Dome light: My switch was broken too, I replaced it with a normal toggle switch in an empty hole in the dash.

Windows: I have new felts, but my driver side door is tough to roll up. I can help it with my hand to a point, then it's very stiff. I've found that it can slip out of the side felt channels, when I push it back in it goes up a little easier. When I open up my doors next to coat the insides with CLR or rust converter, I'll take another look at the window mechanism, as well as take some photos. I do know that my windows is secure in the bottom bracket.

When cleaning out my tailgate, I successfully used rubber cement to re-glue the rear window back down into the bottom channel.

 

[PabloCruise]

best thing is new window regulator rubber.....solved my windows binding on the way down HTH;

Lou

Do you mean new window channel, or new rubber between the glass and the metal piece that raises and lowers?

Where did you get this new rubber? Toyota?

 

[PabloCruise]

I've tried this ane it's never worked on my pigs. I have to lock the rear doors from the front then use the key to lock the doors.

That is what I do most of the time...

I still get the hard-to-lock problem, sometimes they just don't lock. I always test by trying to open the door after locking...

What I found on my passenger door is that the button in the outside handle was not returning all the way out, preventing me from locking. I've hit the button w/ PB Blaster a few times, but it can still be tempermental

What I have found on my driver's door however is that the button on the outside of the door does not release the star wheel on the door to "spin" so you can ope the door. So I have taken to leaving the rear door unlocked, reaching in the DS rear door and opening the DS front door from the inside. Somewhat of a pain in the a$$ you might say!

Have people tweaked their door mechanisms to solve this problem?

If so, what worked? What didn't?

 

[nuclearlemon]

Dome light: My switch was broken too, I replaced it with a normal toggle switch in an empty hole in the dash.
.

that's a great idea...much easier to reach than on the light itself. did you set it up so it works off one position on the lamp, or just straight wire it?

hijack off.