Midwest Performance Parts - reproduction parts for 4* series

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Jan 26, 2012
Ohio, Illinois
Ok , maybe a little bit of an introduction ...

I'm known on the internet as Sarge - the Weber guy . Used to build/modify Weber carbs for off road use mostly , some street mods and even a few racers . Mostly worked on making the DGV series more high-angle friendly , getting maximum flow and power from Japanese engines . We're talking 1.3L & 1.6L Suzuki's north of 150hp with a carburetor for the most part and other brands as well ....but that was in the past and I just got sick of dealing with fluctuation in parts prices .

So , I've moved on to owning a Land Cruiser and decided to use my fab skills to produce small parts that NLA ....

First thing I'd like to tackle is the starting handle system for stock 4* series Cruisers . Almost all of them come from the factory with a special crankshaft nut designed for a starting handle . The two "ears" inside that nut allow a pinned rod to engage the nut and turn the engine clockwise . Pretty smart thinking on Toyota's part - it is after all basically a "tractor engine" . This of course is only for stock engines - not the transplanted Chevy or whatever in many rigs .

So , first part available - front bumper guide that bolts just to the right of center on a stock 4* series bumper , could also work on aftermarket bumpers if they are mostly level with the top of the frame rails -
First picture is a stock guide , second the reproduction part -

hand cranking 3.jpg

bumper guide repro firs run.jpg

This is prior to glass beading to remove mill scale and metalworking burrs - will post up a final finished part later today . These brackets are a dead-on copy of an original guide that was loaned to me from Numby - thanks again for his help . Every dimension in height/width and thickness is as identical as I can make it - including the metric-sized holes .

The price is $39.50 US Dollars shipped via USPS Priority Mail flat rate in the Cont. US . Orders outside that area must be figured on an individual basis . I charge base part price with shipping included plus PayPal fees if applicable . International will still use United States Postal Service since it's the least expensive and pretty quick to most countries .


I will not take pre-orders on stock that isn't completed - no backorders here are allowed . I'll be making short batches as needed and try to keep these on hand to ship out immediately - I hate to wait for parts and don't expect others to wait either .

No warranty implied - use at your own risk as this is a reproduction part and hand starting an engine can be quite dangerous even when done correctly . I stand behind what I make , if there are fitment or any quality issues they will be resolved immediately .

Contact either through Mud's PM's (conversations) or via email - weberguru at gmail.com .

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Just thought I'd mention that these seem better made than the original I have when held side-by-side. Very crisp edges, angles, and holes. Excellent work by Sarge.
Great Work. Keep the parts coming.

is there no way to make the handle break away and become less dangerous when cranking ? Just a thought. I would be down for a set when its much safer
The design allows the engine to disengage the handle when the engine starts in a clockwise direction . The problem comes from the engine kicking back in a counterclockwise direction from a mis-fire , and it can be quite violent . If you watch iDave's video , his method is about as safe as it gets - do not wrap your hands around that handle or your thumbs as a kickback would be very painful . You almost need to start pulling at around 5 o'clock point and make one continuous circular motion to 12 o'clock with some good speed - this "throws" the engine into a full revolution and gives the best chance at gaining some momentum . Trick is to keep the face/body well away from the potential arc of the handle if comes back the other direction . I can most would only have it for a novelty or working on setting the valves , ect . I have started mine twice when the battery was nearly dead and it worked excellent , fired right up .

I'm told models after '81 or so did not have the claw type crank nut on the engine , although it can be swapped out . Just look under the front bib/radiator with a flashlight - if has the claw nut you can use a crank on it . There are a pair of bolt holes offset to one side of the bib hinge on the front bumper , that is where the guide bracket is installed . I intend to offer the crank handle sometime soon , not sure when as I'm waiting on an OEM one to copy .
Just to clarify - all these parts will be shipped bare steel , I'm just glass bead blasting them to remove machine marks and mill scale , that is all . Everyone has their own preference to coatings so that is left up to the buyer to decide . I prefer on the pewter-colored parts to use Stainless Steel Paint , the stuff from Sprayon is tough as nails - have used it over a year now on my 1,000LB welding table and not a real scratch yet . One Plus is it conducts electricity quite well , so no ground needed with my tig welder ....lol . It is not the smoothest coating but I have used it as a base since it will not rust and covered the pewter parts with Cruiser Corps' factory-matched paint with great results that leaves a tough finish .
hey Sarge, the dogsled arrived with the crank guide today ... wow, very nice ... looking forward to what's next ... :cool:
nice ... step(s) closer to reality ... and that crank handle is beefier than the Mazda Pickup handle I have ... :cool:
It is quite beefy indeed - instills a bit of confidence for rolling over a big six compared to some handles . The spring clips are a lighter , later style 20ga material , unlike the very early heavier ones . All these parts were compliments of Landwrecker from New Hampshire , he's got a New Zealand market '77 RHD that's being restored and agreed to loan these parts out for a bit .

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