Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser

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That tuning looks tricky.
 
It's not to bad once you wrap your head around it, a bit fiddly and a bit of trial and error. I think it definitely makes a difference, and only costs you some time and maybe a few $$ for new oil.
 
Dissent said:
These were read with the compressor engaged. Where should voltage be read, is this in the FSM?
Click to expand...
If it helps, I will perform these checks on my rig today and post topic-specific pics. I feel for you and really want to see this resolved. It would help me help you if I could be there while you're checking these things out. PM sent.
 
Dissent said:
Interesting. So would a new OEM fan clutch be the answer?
Click to expand...

out of the box, probably not ideal. I'd suggest getting one of my modded clutches from @NLXTACY mainly because its a known quantity and it will resolve the air flow issue during idle.

But you could get a new blue and modify it yourself, but a drain and fill alone likely won't get you that far.
 
landtank said:
out of the box, probably not ideal. I'd suggest getting one of my modded clutches from @NLXTACY mainly because its a known quantity and it will resolve the air flow issue during idle.

But you could get a new blue and modify it yourself, but a drain and fill alone likely won't get you that far.
Click to expand...

I may mess with the one I have, it was new 4 years ago when I modded it. I need to regroup and figure out which attack to make first. :P
 
Well I explore the idea of parallel flow condenser .. I just wasn't able to source any close to the size we have, and while in the process my AC guy show with some magic " low pressure " ( according to him ) gas to test .. since the test I'm consistent on the 50 - 60F range ..

I have all around mods

1. fan clutch oil
2. JDM AC fan
3, 12" Spal Hi output fan
4. and new Mr. T blower
 
Tapage said:
Well I explore the idea of parallel flow condenser .. I just wasn't able to source any close to the size we have, and while in the process my AC guy show with some magic " low pressure " ( according to him ) gas to test .. since the test I'm consistent on the 50 - 60F range ..

I have all around mods

1. fan clutch oil
2. JDM AC fan
3, 12" Spal Hi output fan
4. and new Mr. T blower
Click to expand...

Did you tune/index the clutch as @landtank does?

I know the parallel condenser measurements are funky. I'm not sure what size our condenser is but if it were 16x24, then the equal parallel flow would be more like 16x22. The parallel flow is measured from the connecting port to the mounting tabs on the other side. Not sure why dimensions are different but it is what it is.
 
In regards to the tuning of the fan clutch. I've been reading through @landtank's clutch thread (about 50%) and I haven't seen much about positively affecting the AC at low speed. It definitley improves radiator temps though.

Does the temperature tuning of the clutch definitely fix low speed AC cooling?
 
Returning to the original subject, most of the aftermarket condensers for this application are now parallel-flow construction, rather than the original serpentine. I believe the Denso condensers are also P-F.
condenser.webp


Part Specifications:
  • Description:Condensers
  • Filter Drier Included:No
  • Gasket / Seals Included?:Yes
  • Inlet Fitting Type:Block Fitting
  • Meets or Exceeds OEM Specs?:Yes
  • New or Remanufactured:New
  • Original Equipment Replacement?:Yes
  • Outlet Fitting Type:Block Fitting
  • Refrigerant Type:R12 , R134a, R1234YF
  • Style:parallel Flow
  • Type:parallel Flow
  • Type of Fit:Application Specific
  • Condenser Core TypeParallel Flow
  • Core Depth "Fraction":3/4
  • Core Height "Fraction":14
  • Core Width "Fraction":29-5/8
 
1972FJ55 said:
Returning to the original subject, most of the aftermarket condensers for this application are now parallel-flow construction, rather than the original serpentine. I believe the Denso condensers are also P-F.
View attachment 1486334

Part Specifications:
  • Description:Condensers
  • Filter Drier Included:No
  • Gasket / Seals Included?:Yes
  • Inlet Fitting Type:Block Fitting
  • Meets or Exceeds OEM Specs?:Yes
  • New or Remanufactured:New
  • Original Equipment Replacement?:Yes
  • Outlet Fitting Type:Block Fitting
  • Refrigerant Type:R12 , R134a, R1234YF
  • Style:parallel Flow
  • Type:parallel Flow
  • Type of Fit:Application Specific
  • Condenser Core Type:parallel Flow
  • Core Depth "Fraction":3/4
  • Core Height "Fraction":14
  • Core Width "Fraction":29-5/8
Click to expand...

So it's likely that many people are running parallel flow condensers as replacements but may not know it. I guess it's a good move to make. Now to find out for sure if Denso units are PF.
 
Dissent said:
So it's likely that many people are running parallel flow condensers as replacements but may not know it. I guess it's a good move to make. Now to find out for sure if Denso units are PF.
Click to expand...

Someone here on MUD got a Denso from Amazon a couple years ago and told me it was P-F, I don't remember who it was.
 
1972FJ55 said:
Someone here on MUD got a Denso from Amazon a couple years ago and told me it was P-F, I don't remember who it was.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I was on Denso's web site and can't find any data about PF condensers for the LandCruiser. May have to call them.
 
I haven't confirmed that Denso has a P/F condenser for this truck. All parts so far show Serpentine. Will continue to work on researching this but now I'm considering adding a 2nd evaporator in the rear. I need to see what the JDM trucks with dual A/C run for a condenser. I know I need a larger condenser but I'm thinking a P/F may fit that bill as they are about 30% more efficient.

The fan clutch tuning made a HUGE difference in the low speed/idle performance. I tuned the 4 year old Blue Hub to 95* and swapped out my 25K oil for 15K oil per @landtank's recommendation. The fan engages at low RPM and the truck goes from 130* vent sitting in the sun to about 70* vent temps in about 1-2 miles.

I've seen some oddities with the max cool vent temps at 107* ambient temps. If I leave the garage and drive down the freeway for any length of time, the vents are 48*....if it sits in the sun for more than a few hours and I drive down the freeway for 30 miles, the best the vent temp gets is 60*. Idle temps are best at 60* in town.

I'm calling this OK for round 1, I'll still be replacing everything over the fall/winter and/or look into adding a 2nd evaporator and see if it improves next year.
 
mudgudgeon said:
Sounds like a decent result.

Out of curiosity, did you tune the clutch using the guide I posted, or was there info in the landtank clutch thread?
Click to expand...
I used your post to start then went to @landtanks original thread and filled in the gaps with some advice on this thread. I'm confident that many people don't tune their clutch, they just replace the oil.
 
Now that the heat has finally arrived in South Carolina I can report that I too have poor AC performance when stopped or low speed. I checked my system once I got to my garage and charge is good but my liquid line was 130-140 degree range. Checking airflow through the condenser I noticed little airflow generated by the fan clutch. I do have an unmodified stock fan clutch that cools the engine adequately however does not move enough air through the condenser. In my opinion, though modifying the fan clutch will help with AC performance, the appropriate step is to ad an electric push fan to run continuously when the AC is turned on or can be cycled based on pressure or temperature of the liquid line. Pressure-actuated would be better IMO but the easiest I believe would be to install a thermoswitch on the bottom third of the condenser coil clamped to one of the U tubes. I'm interested in seeing how others have wired theirs.
 
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