metallic slapping sound after birf rebuild

[racevws]

So I recently rebuilt the birf and stuck new(er) joints in the rig. The drivers side kinda makes a slapping sound when I hit a bump. Link to video:



I hit the top sidewall and it induces the clicking, but the front and back does not. The bottom does to some extent.

Am I paranoid or is this something that I need to address?

 

[Rifleman]

I'm sure other members with way more CV joint knowledge them me will chime in, but I've been lead to understand that a clicking sound coming from the diff means a worn CV joint. When you take it for a test drive, does it make this clicking noise when you turn the wheels too?

 

[racevws]

There was clicking previously, but that has essentially gone away in all but the most severe driving. (only 2 clicks per rotation instead of 6).
This sound occurs when I hit a bump, or more accurately when I hit a pothole (even small ones) or come off of a bump while offroad. I am not sure if my hammer technique accurately replicates that scenario, but its the best I could do without driving around hanging my head out under the truck.

 

[LINUS]

So you had clicking birfs, "rebuilt them"(cleaned & regreased, right?), and re-installed.

Unless you flopped them side-for-side, any work you did isn't going to cure worn ways in the birf knuckle itself, short of welding in material & remilling.

My money is on you need to cut loose the $$$ for birfs, or live with clicking if you don't mind it. If it's not a 80 you want to $pend on, clicking birfs are just annoying, nothing more.

A knocking sound over small bumps sounds like radius arm bushings - might drop the bolts on the axle side & give 'em a look.

 

[racevws]

Yea, I pulled the birfs off of a parts car, so they have improved, but thats not my concern yet (although I will eventually replace them)

The Radius arm bushings are someplace I haven't checked. Thanks for the info, I will get that done ASAP

 

[Malleus]

You might look at the lower bolted (control) knuckle arm connection (IIRC there are four bolts there). Some have mentioned that getting this joint closed is difficult because the arm restricts the flange movement and it seems tight, the bolts torque well, but then it loosens up on the road. The installation fix is to persuade the lower flange (with a BFH) while tightening the bolts.

 

[Tools R Us]

... This sound occurs when I hit a bump, or more accurately when I hit a pothole (even small ones) or come off of a bump while offroad. ...

Most often sway bar bushing(s) giving up. But could be anything loose in the front end, insufficient wheel bearing preload, fastener not torqued to spec, bad bushing, etc. Inspect the bushings, grab the torque wrench and check everything.

 

[Twinair]

Do it again with your hand on the spring see if the noise goes away

 

[nukegoat]

Shock mounts on the frame seem to make those noises too

 

[OLDSRIP]

I had a slightly loose wheel bearing make a noise when I hit bumps. It also did it when I hit tire.

Jack up the noisy side and check for slop in bearing. It didn't take much for mine to make noise.

Good luck,
Joe

 

[alia176]

Also, check the lower knuckle studs AND nuts for torque. The studs should get 40-50 ft-lbs and the nuts are 71 ft-lbs.

 

[racevws]

Do it again with your hand on the spring see if the noise goes away

How do I accomplish that?

I did re torque the birf nut, and that seemed ok.

Still slapping though, I need to check the shock mounts, upper and lower. Maybe just buy a go pro and mount it under there to see what is hitting?

 

[Twinair]

In your video you are whacking the side of your tire. Grab various suspension components and see if the noise is eliminated or changes. It may help narrow down the source of the noise