OME is a good one...its what I use and many others on here 
Build Maroon 95 mild build... New shop truck/beach cruiser
- Thread starter amgraham
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
OME 861s came in yesterday (the 862s are delayed because of the snow storm). Also got new belts (smooth Toyotas and a Bando for the AC) and some wiper blades. Also my new seat gears and plugs came in from Gamiviti. I was super frustrated with work so decided to take a break and pop the passenger seat out and see what is going on.
The passenger was a dead player. No movement at all. The driver moves one screw but not the other. This is why I tackled the passenger first since it's more messed up.
First shot showing all the dust and dog hair. Right away I can see someone has been screwing around with this seat before. The connector tube was loose and when I pulled the plug the whole worm gear came with it and well as the rubber washers all wadded up. I wasn't getting any motion on the motor at all. With my power probe it was actually dimming when I threw 12V to it. So, apart we go. I ended up taking the motor off and loosening the screws for the case and moving it back and forth a bit. After that it worked. The gear on the motor side is stripped too so I'm using both my gears on this side so I'll need to order more.
Here is my problem. Remember when I said someone had been messing around in here? Well, when they did the lost splined bushing that the gear presses on to (on the plug side, not the motor side). Anyone have one of those around or know where I can get one? Also are the rubber washers available? I see I can get the whole box for around $100 from Toyota but would rather not do that if I can help it. Here's some pics:
Question on the rear heat... is there any reason to leave the blower in place after I bypass the hoses? I could see how it may be useful to help circulate conditioned air from the front to the back but don't know for sure. I guess I could leave it and try it for awhile then yank it later if it seems useless. Thoughts?
The passenger was a dead player. No movement at all. The driver moves one screw but not the other. This is why I tackled the passenger first since it's more messed up.
First shot showing all the dust and dog hair. Right away I can see someone has been screwing around with this seat before. The connector tube was loose and when I pulled the plug the whole worm gear came with it and well as the rubber washers all wadded up. I wasn't getting any motion on the motor at all. With my power probe it was actually dimming when I threw 12V to it. So, apart we go. I ended up taking the motor off and loosening the screws for the case and moving it back and forth a bit. After that it worked. The gear on the motor side is stripped too so I'm using both my gears on this side so I'll need to order more.
Here is my problem. Remember when I said someone had been messing around in here? Well, when they did the lost splined bushing that the gear presses on to (on the plug side, not the motor side). Anyone have one of those around or know where I can get one? Also are the rubber washers available? I see I can get the whole box for around $100 from Toyota but would rather not do that if I can help it. Here's some pics:
Question on the rear heat... is there any reason to leave the blower in place after I bypass the hoses? I could see how it may be useful to help circulate conditioned air from the front to the back but don't know for sure. I guess I could leave it and try it for awhile then yank it later if it seems useless. Thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #23
Also just ordered a Dobinsons steering stabilizer. It was the same price as the OME and I figured it was worth a try.
I might be the only one, but I like having my rear heat in my truck. My kids really appreciate it on cold nights, or when we’re all piled in the truck and wet from the beach or something.
I might be interested in the brush guards (damage multiplier). I say might because I have spent too much doing knuckle rebuild and getting an A/C amplifier for my LX, these things are pricey! Do you have them listed somewhere?
- Thread starter
- #26
They'll definitely be for sale at some point. I'll post up in here when they are. I need to cut a bolt that's spinning the blind nut to get one of the brackets off first. Just going to do that when I tear into the suspension and axle.
- Thread starter
- #27
Took a few spare minutes to throw the truck on the lift today. Plan was to yank the front drive shaft so I can replace the u joints when I have a few minutes.
I wonder why this one was making so much racket...
Decided to drop the spare because it wasn't holding air, I wanted to make sure the winch still worked, and I wanted to see if I can wedge my viair system underneath somewhere and still keep the spare underneath. I'm pretty sure this is the original spare (no wonder it wouldn't hold air haha). I pulled an old 285 out of my pile behind the shop to use as a spare for now.
I wonder why this one was making so much racket...
Decided to drop the spare because it wasn't holding air, I wanted to make sure the winch still worked, and I wanted to see if I can wedge my viair system underneath somewhere and still keep the spare underneath. I'm pretty sure this is the original spare (no wonder it wouldn't hold air haha). I pulled an old 285 out of my pile behind the shop to use as a spare for now.
- Thread starter
- #28
I didn't really plan on it but my 862s came in right before I started working on the truck so I decided to throw those and the new shocks on. I wish they were all this easy. I sprayed everything down with pb blaster (including my y pipe that I'm kind of dreading) and fortunately everything came loose without a hitch. I did take the rear sway bar links loose to help it droop more but I'm not sure that was totally necessary. One of the shocks was totally blown, the other felt pretty good.
Stock 140K rear springs vs OME 862s:
I will need new pads and rotors on the rear so I'll order those. The front pads are a little low but the rotors look good. I may replace them too anyway when I do the front knuckles since they're such a pain to get apart.
Stock 140K rear springs vs OME 862s:
I will need new pads and rotors on the rear so I'll order those. The front pads are a little low but the rotors look good. I may replace them too anyway when I do the front knuckles since they're such a pain to get apart.
- Thread starter
- #29
Aaaand the money shot. It doesn't really look that much different (could be because I have all my parts piled in the back). It feels a lot different bouncing on the tailgate though. I'm excited to feel how it drives when I finish up all the work.
I'm still hunting for some parts if anyone sees them around. The list off the top of my head:
Passenger front outer door handle (prefer maroon)
Seat gear spline bushing (or the whole box)
Whatever I'm missing on the drivers door panel (over the bottom of the window switches)
Passenger rear door sill
That's all I can think of for now. I welcome any questions or feedback.
I'm still hunting for some parts if anyone sees them around. The list off the top of my head:
Passenger front outer door handle (prefer maroon)
Seat gear spline bushing (or the whole box)
Whatever I'm missing on the drivers door panel (over the bottom of the window switches)
Passenger rear door sill
That's all I can think of for now. I welcome any questions or feedback.
Best year, best color.
Check out my build thread as we're dealing with a lot of the same issues. Nothing you've listed is incredibly difficult it is just as someone said, time and money. Having your own shop is a definite plus! I can't help you with any of your needed parts but if you come across anything that you have questions on and it is something I've completed feel free to send me a message. I'll be doing all new exhaust and power steering work in 2018. I was supposed to be getting new bumpers this year but the second baby has put a hurting on the budget for toys.
Good luck!
Check out my build thread as we're dealing with a lot of the same issues. Nothing you've listed is incredibly difficult it is just as someone said, time and money. Having your own shop is a definite plus! I can't help you with any of your needed parts but if you come across anything that you have questions on and it is something I've completed feel free to send me a message. I'll be doing all new exhaust and power steering work in 2018. I was supposed to be getting new bumpers this year but the second baby has put a hurting on the budget for toys.
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks! I just noticed your thread and will read through it. None of the issues are anything too major I don't think. For me it's really just getting the time to dig in because I don't want to tie up one of my lifts for a couple days. In the mean time I continue to stack parts and knock out small projects.
I'm really wanting to pressure wash the underside before I tear into the axle but it's been so cold lately. It's supposed to be warm enough Thursday and Friday so I'm going to try and degrease it then. It's so much easier than working on something that is super grimey.
Priced up new rotors and pads (going with 100 series front pads since it seems they are better? We'll see). I'll order them in the next couple days.
I still need to get some heater hose. I thought about going silicone but I think I'm just going to go with normal heater hose. It should last quite awhile and I won't have to source the constant pressure clamps or anything like that. I did lay eyes on the PHH last night and it is the stocker with the original clamps so I'm definitely changing that.
Got some Chemical Guys leather cleaner and conditioner. I've never tried it before but I couldn't find my Lexol and I'm sure it's pretty old anyway. I'll report back how this stuff works on the seats. Hopefully it'll soften them up.
If you are replacing the rotors I would go with new 80 pads until the rotors wear down a little bit. Once you get to where you need to replace that set of pads go with 100 series. It was explained to me that 100 series pads with new 80 rotors do not have the required gap to get the calipers back onto the rotor. I did not confirm this myself but it comes from the guys at Cruiser Outfitters so I believe them.
- Thread starter
- #33
Cool. Thanks for looking out. 80s it is.
- Thread starter
- #34
Put a little more time into the 80 today. First I swapped out the u joints. Not difficult but a real pain.
You can see where there was rust built up in the rear joint caps. The front one was the real jewel:
I tried to press them out but it wasn't really working too well (yokes were too rounded and sliding around). Ended up going with the old socket and hammer routine and that worked better.
I had been soaking the y pipe bolts for the last few weeks and decided to try and take that loose. Fortunately all of them came loose without issue. I forgot to take pics but everyone has seen that awful Toyota design pipe before. The Magnaflow looks a lot better. I was originally going to reuse the O2 sensor but it looked just a little too crusty so I ordered a new one that'll be in tomorrow along with some better gaskets for the pipe. The rear O2 looks fairly new.
While I have the cat out I dropped the heat shield to take a look at my leaking rear heater lines. They're definitely done. I think I'm just going to leave them for now though as I really don't need to add any more projects right now:
You can see where there was rust built up in the rear joint caps. The front one was the real jewel:
I tried to press them out but it wasn't really working too well (yokes were too rounded and sliding around). Ended up going with the old socket and hammer routine and that worked better.
I had been soaking the y pipe bolts for the last few weeks and decided to try and take that loose. Fortunately all of them came loose without issue. I forgot to take pics but everyone has seen that awful Toyota design pipe before. The Magnaflow looks a lot better. I was originally going to reuse the O2 sensor but it looked just a little too crusty so I ordered a new one that'll be in tomorrow along with some better gaskets for the pipe. The rear O2 looks fairly new.
While I have the cat out I dropped the heat shield to take a look at my leaking rear heater lines. They're definitely done. I think I'm just going to leave them for now though as I really don't need to add any more projects right now:
- Thread starter
- #35
Also threw in my 861s and new shocks. I was going to wait for when I did the axle but I couldn't wait plus they're so easy to do. I didn't get the wheels back on it yet since I'm waiting for the exhaust stuff so you'll have to wait for the money shot.
While it was up I checked the axle oil to make sure they weren't dry. Thankfully they aren't and don't look too bad. There's even a little bit of grease in the birfs (and some gear oil). I cracked the breeders on the front calipers because the brakes are a little spongy and I want to flush out the old fluid. The fronts broke loose fine, the rears are stuck solid. I have them soaking and will try again tomorrow. Worst case scenario I have to replace the rear calipers. The fronts look like they already have 100 pads in them because they're hanging over the outside of the rotor. I definitely don't like that so, final answer, gonna run 80 pads.
Lastly I went ahead and knocked off the stock steering stabilizer. I heard it was a major pain but wasn't too bad. I smacked it hard with a pickle fork a few times on the steering box side then unbolted the bracket from the other side and put the whole thing in a vice and hit the stabilizer stud till it popped out (2 or 3 good hits). Then I cleaned up the bracket and bolted it back on the frame. I'm going to wait to put my Dobbinson stabilizer on till I degrease everything and do the front seal and all that. At least the old one is off. Also cut off the last damage multiplier bracket so I can sell that thing now haha. Here's a pic of the stock stabilizer I took before just to remember orientation:
While it was up I checked the axle oil to make sure they weren't dry. Thankfully they aren't and don't look too bad. There's even a little bit of grease in the birfs (and some gear oil). I cracked the breeders on the front calipers because the brakes are a little spongy and I want to flush out the old fluid. The fronts broke loose fine, the rears are stuck solid. I have them soaking and will try again tomorrow. Worst case scenario I have to replace the rear calipers. The fronts look like they already have 100 pads in them because they're hanging over the outside of the rotor. I definitely don't like that so, final answer, gonna run 80 pads.
Lastly I went ahead and knocked off the stock steering stabilizer. I heard it was a major pain but wasn't too bad. I smacked it hard with a pickle fork a few times on the steering box side then unbolted the bracket from the other side and put the whole thing in a vice and hit the stabilizer stud till it popped out (2 or 3 good hits). Then I cleaned up the bracket and bolted it back on the frame. I'm going to wait to put my Dobbinson stabilizer on till I degrease everything and do the front seal and all that. At least the old one is off. Also cut off the last damage multiplier bracket so I can sell that thing now haha. Here's a pic of the stock stabilizer I took before just to remember orientation:
- Thread starter
- #36
I was incredibly busy at work yesterday and needed the lift for other things so I really busted as on the 80 to get it back drivable between phone calls and customers. Bolted the new O2 to the y pipe and got it up into place. Just bolted it to the stock exhaust for now. It will need to be replaced soon as there is a small leak in the muffler plus most of the exhaust mounts are messed up too but it will do for now. I think I have a slight leak at the manifold. Can't really tell if it's the manifold or the y pipe not sealing up. I'll give it a few heat cycles and retorque the y pipe.
The rear bleeder screws absolutely won't come out and one rounded off so it's getting new calipers in the rear (the fronts look like they've been replaced semi recently). Should have the calipers monday but I did go ahead and get the pads and rotors:
I like these WBR rotors because they're pretty consistent, good price, and they are coated so they keep looking good (I used the same ones on my wife's 4Runner when I converted it to 5th gen brakes). My 54mm socket came in too (couldn't find my old one for some reason) so I think I have everything to do the front axle when I get a chance.
For now I am spraying degreaser under the front and letting it sit. Will power wash it next week and then do the rear heater bypass and flush the system, PHH, front seal and oil pump o ring, and brakes and I should be fairly done with mechanical work for now (I'll just drive it and see if anything crops up). Then I can focus on finding the seat parts and getting those back operational, cleaning, interior refresh (replace missing trim pieces, get steering wheel redone), stereo, on board air, and get the door painted and the dents taken out of the tailgate.
The rear bleeder screws absolutely won't come out and one rounded off so it's getting new calipers in the rear (the fronts look like they've been replaced semi recently). Should have the calipers monday but I did go ahead and get the pads and rotors:
I like these WBR rotors because they're pretty consistent, good price, and they are coated so they keep looking good (I used the same ones on my wife's 4Runner when I converted it to 5th gen brakes). My 54mm socket came in too (couldn't find my old one for some reason) so I think I have everything to do the front axle when I get a chance.
For now I am spraying degreaser under the front and letting it sit. Will power wash it next week and then do the rear heater bypass and flush the system, PHH, front seal and oil pump o ring, and brakes and I should be fairly done with mechanical work for now (I'll just drive it and see if anything crops up). Then I can focus on finding the seat parts and getting those back operational, cleaning, interior refresh (replace missing trim pieces, get steering wheel redone), stereo, on board air, and get the door painted and the dents taken out of the tailgate.
- Thread starter
- #37
Worked on it a little more yesterday. Forgot to take pictures so some text for now and I'll add pics later.
Completed the rear heater bypass as the leak had gotten so bad it was pissing coolant all over the floor every time I moved it. Removed the 2 splitters and replaced it with 5/8 hose and only had to get 1 90 degree bend. Blew through the heater core while I had it open and seemed clear with no residue or signs of blockage (the rear lines were a different story). Filled it with water for now, got it up to temp and bled it. The heater works now but I am getting an odd problem: The heater is hot when I first slide the temp over to hot then it goes lukewarm. If I slide it back to cold then back to hot it it does the same thing again (hot then lukewarm after a few seconds). Any ideas? The heater valve seems to be staying open.
Replaced the charcoal canister lines as well. 1/4" worked fine.
Test drove it after for the first time since I bought it. Went about a mile up the road to get gas. Runs well, still a slight exhaust leak. There is a bearing howl from the front. I'll see how it sounds after the new wheel bearings and if it still howls a front locker and rebuild may happen sooner than later (which is unfortunate since I feel a rear locker is much more usable). Feels like the tires are out of balance too. No biggie as I plan to replace them in the next few months.
I've got to fix the steering wheel. It feels so gross
Completed the rear heater bypass as the leak had gotten so bad it was pissing coolant all over the floor every time I moved it. Removed the 2 splitters and replaced it with 5/8 hose and only had to get 1 90 degree bend. Blew through the heater core while I had it open and seemed clear with no residue or signs of blockage (the rear lines were a different story). Filled it with water for now, got it up to temp and bled it. The heater works now but I am getting an odd problem: The heater is hot when I first slide the temp over to hot then it goes lukewarm. If I slide it back to cold then back to hot it it does the same thing again (hot then lukewarm after a few seconds). Any ideas? The heater valve seems to be staying open.
Replaced the charcoal canister lines as well. 1/4" worked fine.
Test drove it after for the first time since I bought it. Went about a mile up the road to get gas. Runs well, still a slight exhaust leak. There is a bearing howl from the front. I'll see how it sounds after the new wheel bearings and if it still howls a front locker and rebuild may happen sooner than later (which is unfortunate since I feel a rear locker is much more usable). Feels like the tires are out of balance too. No biggie as I plan to replace them in the next few months.
I've got to fix the steering wheel. It feels so gross
- Thread starter
- #38
Tinkered with some other dumb stuff today between jobs. In no particular order:
The hood release cable end was hanging out below the lever and you had to pull on the cable end to release the hood. I figured the cable was stretched and was not looking forward to replacing that. However, I noticed one of the bolts for the hood latch was loose (someone had been in there) so I pulled it off and the cable was popped out of the notch so I popped it back in, stuck the other end back into the release lever, lubed it all up, and it works perfect.
The left rear window didn't work. I pulled the switch out and it was unhooked and no sign of the plug in sight. Awesome. So, I pulled the panel to see if there was a block of wood in there or something dumb like others have found. Everything looked intact and I found the plug behind the panel so I plugged it back in and the window worked, very slowly. So, I lubed the window tracks and worked it up and down a bunch of times and it is pretty smooth and quick now. I also lubed the rest of the windows. They all still shudder a bit mid way but I'm going to try to keep lubing and working them and hopefully get rid of that. At least I don't have to replace the motor or anything. I peeled off the fake wood, cleaned everything up and put it back together.
Did the zip tie fix on my shaky mirrors. Worked well, no issues.
Started using the Chemical Guys leather treatment on my driver side seats front and rear. I'm going to keep applying to that one side and compare to the other. So good so far.
Probably going to need a starter. It is starting to take a few tries to get it to crank over.
I got my rear calipers so the brakes are ready to be done.
I poked around with the power probe trying to track down the reason the door lights don't work. While I was messing with the left rear door I pulled the switch out and it didn't seem to do anything when I pushed it in or out (constant ground). I have power to the dome lights and they work when switched to "on". The lights on the front doors work if the passenger door is open (the driver's door doesn't come on unless the passenger door is also open). I haven't found a lot of wiring boogery yet on this thing so I'm hoping it's some faulty switches and not something cut and rewired badly. We'll see.
Started thinking about tires. I like the idea of 255s as I run 33x10.50s on my 4Runner and like them. However they are a lot more costly than 285s and not as readily available/not as many choices so I will probably go back with 285s when the time comes.
Still puzzled by the heater thing. Going to keep messing with that. Still open to any ideas/expertise.
The hood release cable end was hanging out below the lever and you had to pull on the cable end to release the hood. I figured the cable was stretched and was not looking forward to replacing that. However, I noticed one of the bolts for the hood latch was loose (someone had been in there) so I pulled it off and the cable was popped out of the notch so I popped it back in, stuck the other end back into the release lever, lubed it all up, and it works perfect.
The left rear window didn't work. I pulled the switch out and it was unhooked and no sign of the plug in sight. Awesome. So, I pulled the panel to see if there was a block of wood in there or something dumb like others have found. Everything looked intact and I found the plug behind the panel so I plugged it back in and the window worked, very slowly. So, I lubed the window tracks and worked it up and down a bunch of times and it is pretty smooth and quick now. I also lubed the rest of the windows. They all still shudder a bit mid way but I'm going to try to keep lubing and working them and hopefully get rid of that. At least I don't have to replace the motor or anything. I peeled off the fake wood, cleaned everything up and put it back together.
Did the zip tie fix on my shaky mirrors. Worked well, no issues.
Started using the Chemical Guys leather treatment on my driver side seats front and rear. I'm going to keep applying to that one side and compare to the other. So good so far.
Probably going to need a starter. It is starting to take a few tries to get it to crank over.
I got my rear calipers so the brakes are ready to be done.
I poked around with the power probe trying to track down the reason the door lights don't work. While I was messing with the left rear door I pulled the switch out and it didn't seem to do anything when I pushed it in or out (constant ground). I have power to the dome lights and they work when switched to "on". The lights on the front doors work if the passenger door is open (the driver's door doesn't come on unless the passenger door is also open). I haven't found a lot of wiring boogery yet on this thing so I'm hoping it's some faulty switches and not something cut and rewired badly. We'll see.
Started thinking about tires. I like the idea of 255s as I run 33x10.50s on my 4Runner and like them. However they are a lot more costly than 285s and not as readily available/not as many choices so I will probably go back with 285s when the time comes.
Still puzzled by the heater thing. Going to keep messing with that. Still open to any ideas/expertise.
- Thread starter
- #39
Forgot to say I pulled my frayed driver's seat belt to prep to send off to get redone. It was pretty haggard looking and doesn't pass inspection like that so I figured now's a good time since I'm not driving it to send it off. Here's some pics more for my reference than anything.
- Thread starter
- #40
I took some pics of my rear heat bypass for another thread so I might as well post them here too:
Started on the rear brakes just to knock out some small stuff. Left is installed and bled. I used the old bolt for the brake line banjo because the new one was 11mm for some reason and I don't like weird sizes like that. Seemed to tighten up fine. The slide pins in the old caliper were all rusted and frozen so this should help a lot.
I'll try to find time to knock out the right side today.
Also pulled one of the front door speakers and started trying some speakers I has laying around. Looks like I'm going to have to get some spacer rings but shouldn't be a big deal.
Started on the rear brakes just to knock out some small stuff. Left is installed and bled. I used the old bolt for the brake line banjo because the new one was 11mm for some reason and I don't like weird sizes like that. Seemed to tighten up fine. The slide pins in the old caliper were all rusted and frozen so this should help a lot.
I'll try to find time to knock out the right side today.
Also pulled one of the front door speakers and started trying some speakers I has laying around. Looks like I'm going to have to get some spacer rings but shouldn't be a big deal.