Build Manglers "Flying Egg" Resto-Build

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Are you doing the work at home? Can I come and drink beer and throw peanut shells at you?

Not sure where I’m doing the work yet, but I am going to do it myself. Lift at friends house/shop I usually do all my work at is currently occupied with a 52 Chevy pickup hot rod we just finished a motor swap in but now we are down the DEEP rabbit hole of 4 linking the rear suspension. But I might bring it to another friends shop and do it there.

Speaking of rabbit holes, I keep going deeper on this one also. Had a very slight brake squeal the other day in traffic, so only logical decision here is full brake job to DBA rotors and Slee Stainless lines “while I’m in there”

Based on advanced mathematical calculations, this is going to require at least a 30 pack of Mexican lager and one very long day.
 
Things are happening

After changing my mind 50x I choose the Cooper AT3 XLT after driving a friends HE with them and how dang quiet they were and reviews seem top tier!

Super bummed the Nitto TG G2 were discontinued, I had 100s of 1000s of miles on them over the years. Arctic circle and back 2x

So I order these and promptly informed these are discontinued also as of last week. FML 😂

Shoutout to @dudemancool1904 for the close out price idea. Winning!

They are the 275/70-18 Flavor

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Noticed these unknown brand 1” wheel spacers when I took the wheels off.

Has them on all 4 corners. Appears whoever installed them ground down the OEM studs 🤬

No big deal on the front as those are being replaced via new hub assemblies, but the rear gonna be a pain in the arse

IMG_6994.webp
 
Noticed these unknown brand 1” wheel spacers when I took the wheels off.

Has them on all 4 corners. Appears whoever installed them ground down the OEM studs 🤬

No big deal on the front as those are being replaced via new hub assemblies, but the rear gonna be a pain in the arse

View attachment 3744650

False alarm on the unbranded spacers and studs, whew

Took it all apart again. They are Bora brand, 1” and the studs are not cut down. Optical illusion.

Anyway, I’ll likely replace them with identical new units, for peace of mind more than anything else.

Previous owner got tires rotated religiously and who knows how many Ugga uggas these studs have seen.

Never run spacers before, but I absolutely love the way this truck drives and handles as it sits, soooo
 
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Last of the bits finally arrived…

Will be doing full brake overhaul.

I’m usually a strictly OEM guy, other than seats, Brakes are only other thing I feel Toyota has been disappointing with.

I’ve had the DBA rotor/ Hawk LTS pads on my last 4 trucks (and our Baja 1000 race 80 series) and absolutely swear by them and feel it’s the best ALL around combo.

Also, I’ve never replaced a DBA rotor ever, and the ones on my 100 series had almost 100k on them and still MICed almost new.

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Last of the bits finally arrived…

Will be doing full brake overhaul.

I’m usually a strictly OEM guy, other than seats, Brakes are only other thing I feel Toyota has been disappointing with.

I’ve had the DBA rotor/ Hawk LTS pads on my last 4 trucks (and our Baja 1000 race 80 series) and absolutely swear by them and feel it’s the best ALL around combo.

Also, I’ve never replaced a DBA rotor ever, and the ones on my 100 series had almost 100k on them and still MICed almost new.

View attachment 3745267
Are these the same parts needed for a 2021? I'm looking to upgrade/replace my brakes. Have started getting a light squeal in my passenger rear.
 
Are these the same parts needed for a 2021? I'm looking to upgrade/replace my brakes. Have started getting a light squeal in my passenger rear.

Not 100% sure, I THINK you have bigger front rotors but not sure

Slee’s site is a good reference to check part #s
 
Was curious and did some digging @prwillard2

Yes, your front rotors ARE a different part #
 
No Problemo…

Another thing I put on all my vehicles are speed bleeders.

Been using them close to 20 years and had them on all my race bikes (changed fluid ALOT).

I know everyone has their own preferred method for bleeding brakes and various gizmos and such.

These are my preferred method. Can’t really get any simpler.

Thanks to @KLF for confirming the part # and clarifying Amazons discrepancy

Russell Part # 639560

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No Problemo…

Another thing I put on all my vehicles are speed bleeders.

Been using them close to 20 years and had them on all my race bikes (changed fluid ALOT).

I know everyone has their own preferred method is bleeding brakes and various gizmos and such.

These are my preferred method. Can’t really get any simpler.

Thanks to @KLF for confirming the part # and clarifying Amazons discrepancy

Russell Part # 639560

View attachment 3745995
Used to buy these from Dave Turner Motorsport, I miss when we had an actual speed shop 10 mins from the house.
 
Used to buy these from Dave Turner Motorsport, I miss when we had an actual speed shop 10 mins from the house.

Nice, ive bought most of mine at Lees Cycles right on Aero Dr.

Jeremy Toye is the man and loved supporting his shenanigans.

Havent been there in years but they appear to still be open.
 
Prouductive Weekend!

Tasks Completed:
-Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed (front set to 3rd clip)
-Bilstein Rear Springs (Standard)
-New OEM UCAs, LCAs, All 4 Rear Links, and Track Bar
-New OEM front sway bar links
-Dr KDSS "Shorty" bracket
-DBA Rotors
-Hawk LTS Pads
-Full Brake System Flush (Man i LOVE speed bleeders)
-275-70-18 Cooper AT3 LTX on Powdercoated TRD BBS Wheels (loving how dang quiet they are)
-Removed Wheel Spacers (likely install NEW 1" bora set later)

Thought i ordered all 4 of the sway bar bushings front and rear, but they were no where to be found, so those will be done at a later date.

Measurements Before (no 3rd row, half tank of gas)
DF: 19"
PF: 19 3/4"
DR: 21 1/4"
PR: 21 1/4"
RAKE: 1 3/4"

Measurements After (no 3rd row, half tank of gas)
DF: 22"
PF: 22"
DR: 23 1/8"
PR: 23 1/4"
LIFT FRONT: 2.5"
LIFT REAR: 2"
RAKE: 1 1/4"

Im not concerned about the 2.5" in the front because the stock ones on there were worn and sagging and almost an inch lower thant newer 200s ive measured, guessing its closer to the claimed 1 3/4" lift as advertised, so shouldnt be an issue with stock UCAs. That, and there will be some settling.

Will shoot for alignment tomorrow and report back.

First impressions are all positive for sure! The loose and wallowing feeling is completly gone, as is the annoying brake dive.

Not "Stiffer" but definitely feels more planted and confident. Hit a little dirt, and ALL of the loose rattling is gone. Guessing most of that was from the completely shot control arm bushings and front sway bar links!

Put the same DBA rotors and Hawk Pads on that i've ran on my last 4 trucks and did a full system bleed. The fluid in there was NASTY and probably original!

Braking feels night and day better, but the rotors and pads i took off were shot, so anything would of been an improvement.

Overall, fairly easy straight forward install for most of it. 2 hardest parts are the upper rear arms, and the front UCAs. Even with truck on a lift, there is very little room to work with and id say those took as majority of the time. I'd rate this 3:banana: Maybe less if youre an itty bitty fella

Marked all the caster adjusters before taking it apart and put them all in the same spot. Drives great, but still getting a real alignment tomorrow.

I have and planned to replace the CVs and hub assemblies as well, but after inspecting them, they appear to be in great shape, so that will be a later task.

Next on list (in order):
-Alignment
-All sway bar rubber bushings
-Tranny and Power Steering Flush
-Tcase and Diff Flush
-Slee Formed Sliders
-2013+ OEM headlight conversion
-Retint windows

Absolutely estatic how this came out, the stance, and the ride! More to come!

Per Internet Rules, heres some pics:

STANCE2.jpg

BRAKES1.jpg


STANCE1.jpg

POKE2.jpg

POKE1.jpg
 
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More Pics:

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DRKDSS2.jpg

FRONTSHOCK.jpg

REARSHOCK.jpg

REAR UPPER.webp
 
Wow, you work fast. Truck is looking great! Better than that, all the running gear is freshy fresh new.
 
Wow, you work fast. Truck is looking great! Better than that, all the running gear is freshy fresh new.

Well, I was a crew chief for the Corona Class 1 Car in Baja for 4 years, true story, soooo… 😜

PREP PREP PREP! Slower is faster!

Make sure ya got everything ya need (parts and tools), buy extra parts that ya MIGHT need, line everything up on the floor, and SEND IT. When tired or frustrated, walk away, come back with clear head.

I’ve always owned multiple vehicles or had a take home company truck. Things have changed and this is now my daily, won’t lie, that added a TON of stress and factored in the speed factor here. Was admittedly a little nerve racking at times!

Fortunate to have access to shop, lift, and every tool under the sun. That reminds me, I have to replace the breaker bar I snapped in 2 pieces 😂

Thanks for the kind words, and advice sir! Once I get the sliders on, we will be WHEELING! Woot!

A lot more is going to be replaced and refreshed, but above was my priority. Will basically be a a new truck when I’m done and I’ll still be into it for HALF the cost of a lower mileage newer one 😊
 
Cruising Marian Bear park again I see. 😂
Where you getting it aligned?
 
Cruising Marian Bear park again I see. 😂
Where you getting it aligned?

Thought i saw you in the bushes behind the rest room. Should have said hi! I like your new shorts!

I’m actually sitting at Firestone right now. Wife was nice enough to remind me they open on Sundays.

Kicker is my office is 2 miles from The Legendary Clarence Brown alignment center, but their hours and the logistics don’t work for me at the moment
 
Well, that was a waste of an hour

Firestone had my pile on the rack for 20 mins and then the “tech” comes and tells me adjusting the caster on these is very labor intensive and I’d have to leave it overnight. Ummm no!

The journey continues
 
Love the stance and especially the powdercoat on those wheels. Looks killer!
 
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