Making up scuff/sill plates, are you interested??

Which kind of scuff/sill plates do you want??

  • Chromed sheet metal ONLY

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    42

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Protekto-Trim

Here's another idea for the top of the scuff plate. Protekto-Trim, Truck and Suv 1"running board tread.

Lou
1-Running-Board.webp
 
New Price for scuff plates

New price $30.00 plus shipping which should not cost much. I thought this was something everyone could use, so far I've had one PM. So for $30 bucks we need ten orders to hit the minimum order. Need a little help:bounce::bounce::bounce:

Lou
 
Thanks Sporin, just need a few more pigs that need scuff plates. If I get six more orders, I'll cover the difference. If anyone thinks they'll need scuff plates , order them now because I plan on doing this just once.

Lou
 
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scuff plates

Ok, I have enough commited buyer's but I'll wait until Tuesday next week to place the order for those who are on the fence. This hat channel unlike the one I made, which took me two days, is one piece bent to the spec's and punch cut ends to shape. Your piggy will appreciate the door way protection.
Lou
 
You have PM from me, asking for a set.

Thanks,
Andy
 
Lou, do you have a picture of the cross section? If it has the soft corners like OEM I may be interested otherwise I'm going to continue my quest.
 
I am in for a set
 
scull plates

I do not have a sample and not sure if I'll get one based on such a small order. I sent them the same pictures that are posted here. My understanding is it's a hard brake but I will discuss a soft corner, if they can do it, I'll get it done. All I can say is for $30 bucks its a nice option thats cheap and you can finish them the way you want. I'll be happy to refund anyone who's not happy with the plates.

Lou
 
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scuff plates

For those who have factory floor boards the front door scuff plates have a sharper angle cut, on the inside front section to
miss the bead roll floor section. If they can't make that cut, I'll be happy to cut them for you and can leave them for those who have replaced their floor boards. I hope this make sense, here's a pic's. We can discuss this on a case by case basis. I'll post a better picture

Lou
IMG_0941.webp
 
A big round of applause for Lou (and Eric...and anyone else) for this effort:beer::cheers::beer:Many thanks!
 
For those who have factory floor boards the front door scuff plates have a sharper angle cut, on the inside front section to
miss the bead roll floor section. If they can't make that cut, I'll be happy to cut them for you and can leave them for those who have replaced their floor boards. I hope this make sense, here's a pic's. We can discuss this on a case by case basis. I'll post a better picture

Lou


didn't exactly completely make sense to me Lou. But they look really nice. On the original the outer lip fits between the door welting and door seal so that the door closes against the weatherstrip seal. How does this work out on yours?

I have the luxury of the semi-good to good ones that Charles has. And I am going to wait on his efforts for sure- if nothing else, I still have the originals. But I may want to buy a set of yours as an interim fix unless they are too pretty and decide the are a perm. fix.
 
Luke, Those look nice. Did you start with stuff from the hardware store or create your own? Have you come up with anything for the back seat area?
 
scuff plates

Eric if you or Charles can shot a close up shot of the factory plates and the relation to the welting and seal, I'm open to make any changes thats needed to make these work. I have no idea what the factory plates look like.

I started with stuff from the hardware store and used a metal epoxy to bond the three pieces together. Mrbinks79, the rear scuff plates are included.

Lou
 
Eric if you or Charles can shot a close up shot of the factory plates and the relation to the welting and seal, I'm open to make any changes thats needed to make these work. I have no idea what the factory plates look like.

I started with stuff from the hardware store and used a metal epoxy to bond the three pieces together. Mrbinks79, the rear scuff plates are included.

Lou

Some photos here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/212263-scuff-plates-2.html First page I think;
wiringsidedepthscuffa.webp
 
Lou, the things I'm looking for in the scuff plates are the interface that Eric has pointed out, the gentle bends rather than the hard corners and the gentle upward curves at each end. Also the passenger and drivers sides are different widths to allow for the wiring loom to pass on one side.

Eric, still working on finding a press brake, it looks like we might be getting closer. We were talking to sheet metal guys before, now we are talking to folks doing heavier stuff who cannot use a regular sheet metal brake.
 
Eric, still working on finding a press brake, it looks like we might be getting closer. We were talking to sheet metal guys before, now we are talking to folks doing heavier stuff who cannot use a regular sheet metal brake.

If you saw my 55 you'd wonder how in the world I could be even thinking about scuff plates at this time :) .

But it does drive so, I'm up for scuffs at any time. Though like you, in the end run I like the notion of OEM replicated. No rush here on that. I know it is a challange and there are only so many hours in a day.
 

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