Main Battery ground replacement

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Jukelemon

Jukelemon

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Threads
283
Messages
2,381
Location
Louisville, KY
HI all.

I am going to replace the main battery ground.

Right now, it terminates at two places-one on the block to the left of the crank and one on the body just left of the ground lug of the battery.

When you all replaced the ground, did you a- make your own b- just use a single termination to the block c-both or d- just buy an OEM replacement?

The ground wire on the 22re is very small-smaller than I expected. I was planning on replacing with almost 100% more wire i.e. looks like 10g now or thereabouts and the std replacement straps at a parts store are usually 4g or thereabouts.

Thoughts?

Thx
 
That's more or less where mine is grounded... I found an aftermarket cable that had a smaller wire to ground to the body. I don't know if a larger ground is needed, but it couldn't hurt with all the strangeness that we get in these rigs if the ground isn't right...
 
I made my own, I used #4 battery cable and good staked connections that I also soldered and put heatshrink over. I also used new mil-spec battery terminals, that I got from Wrangler Power Products. I swear I noticed an immediate effect on the starting, it's like the starter suddenly took steroids.
 
Call me crazy but I used 1/0 cable for the ground and the starter. I bought the cables from these guys and the quality looked excellent to me. You just go to their online store and pick and choose components and then pay them a small labor charge to assemble. They even sent all the left over cable and shrink wrap. I also used Mil-spec terminals but I can't find where I ordered them from.

Here's a cut and paste from the cable order:

Be sure to shop us 24hr a day in our website store at:

http://shop.genuinedealz.com

Your purchase information appears below.
-----------------------------------------

Your purchase reads as follows:

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751111
1/0 AWG Marine Tinned Battery Cable Boat Wire BLK /ft
Price: $3.41
Quantity: 2
Inventory SKU: GIM-WUL1/0BK-/FT
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:22 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751112
1/0 AWG Marine Tinned Battery Cable Boat Wire RED /ft
Price: $3.41
Quantity: 3
Inventory SKU: GIM-WUL1/0RD-/FT
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:24 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751113
1/0 AWG Tinned Heavy Wall Lug 1/2 in
Price: $1.78
Quantity: 1
Inventory SKU: GIM-05346-/EA
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:25 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751114
1/0 AWG Tinned Heavy Wall Lug 3/8 in
Price: $1.78
Quantity: 3
Inventory SKU: GIM-05345-/EA
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:25 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751115
1/0 AWG Tinned Heavy Wall Lug 5/16 in
Price: $1.78
Quantity: 2
Inventory SKU: GIM-91756
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:26 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751116
2-2/0 AWG Starter/Alternator Boot - Red
Price: $1.09
Quantity: 1
Inventory SKU: GIM-TBCA20-R
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:26 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751117
3/4in Heavy Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing BLK $/ft
Price: $3.75
Quantity: 1
Inventory SKU: GIM-BHW-3/4BK
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:26 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751118
3/4in Heavy Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing RED $/ft
Price: $3.75
Quantity: 1
Inventory SKU: GIM-BHW-3/4RD
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:27 AM

Genuinedealz.com Item #12751119
Custom Cable Assembly - Labor Charge
Price: $0.99
Quantity: 6
Inventory SKU: CUSTLABstore
Date: 5/21/2008 11:59:27 AM

I don't have a great photo but you can just see the cables in this photo (circled in red). I used the factory ground position on the fenderwell.
Battery Cables.webp
 
Last edited:
1/0 is pretty damn heavy LOL! But overkill is OK for conductivity in my opinion when it comes to the battery.

Thanks for the references.
 
I've been running marine style terminals at both batteries. 4 gauge on my main battery, with high draw wire from scosche, and 0/2 from my second battery to the solenoid.

That genuine deals store seems pretty expensive. $5 a foot for 0/2? For large cable purchases, I've been using waytek wire. They are around $2.10 a foot for a similar product.

Also, Del City is a great company when it comes to buying automotive electrical parts.
 
GRM said:
That genuine deals store seems pretty expensive. $5 a foot for 0/2? For large cable purchases, I've been using waytek wire. They are around $2.10 a foot for a similar product.
Click to expand...

I can't disagree with you on the price per foot if you were buying large quantities but: I only bought 5' of cable, they had the other parts that I needed, they only charge 99 cents to crimp, and there was very little waste as there aren't any minimum quantities. Total cost with shipping for that order was $42 which isn't too bad for assembled cables.
 
HI all.

I went with 2g for both the body (fenderwell) and block. I had some 2g around the house so I just bought some lugs and a marine grade/type terminal.

Should work well.

Afer looking at the 2g, it is WAY more than the stock. Looks like the stock is 10g or thereabouts.

War, I cant imagine 1/0 LOL!! You must have had a blast with routing ( :

Anyway, thanks all. I will knock this out tomorrow when the kids go to their mom's house. I can tell that the stock cables are very corroded at the ends.

Take it easy.
 
NAPA sells the Mil spec ends. Mil spec #s positive A52425-1 and negative A52425-2.
 
I replaced all my grounds and the starter positive with 4 gauge, homemade using cable, lugs and shrinkwrap from West Marine(expensive place). Used a nice crimper that cost alot($160 or so). Didn't solder 'cause I didn't have, or want to buy a torch setup plus no place to do that work. Didn't replace the Alt to batt cable 'cause I didn't want to take apart the underhood fuse box at the time, though I'd like to replace that Alt cable sometime.
 
So, I am curious...one has already mentioned a significant change in cranking power-at least perceived difference.

Any other immediate gains? Just wondering if headlights got brighter etc.
 
Jukelemon said:
So, I am curious...one has already mentioned a significant change in cranking power-at least perceived difference.

Any other immediate gains? Just wondering if headlights got brighter etc.
Click to expand...

I don't think you'll see any other gains. You only changed the wiring to the ground and to the starter. If you want brighter headlights then there are wiring options. Check out Roger Brown's headlight wiring upgrades:

Toyota 4Runner and Pickup: Brighter Lights
 
Finished.

Noticeable difference in cabin light brightness and headlight brightness.

My + bat terminal was really realy bad. A lot of corrosion and generally the Steel/Alum was weak/brittle. I did not replace the starter cable-just the + bat terminal, - bat terminal and both ground straps.

I am not going to swear by it BUT I think the miss/hesitation is gone as well. The engine seems smoother overall.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom