LX470 2004 | Need help with Android Screen (16 Viewers)

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I havent buttoned it up yet until i can confirm where the radio antenna does any help out there?

When I connected the radio to the OEM spot the hardware buttons work and antenna comes up but there is only static. When i connected the radio antenna into the screen the hardware buttons no longer work but the radio in the screen works so I left it like that.

Everything is working I just need to figure out how to power and run the rear view camera.
 
@DMCTX would you please post a few pictures of the back of your OE nav system and what the boxes looked like? And you were April 2006 production date correct?
Yes it’s an April 2006 production date.

6DED5905-8C5A-4DA3-BC9D-478A121D6F11.jpeg
4265CF6F-714B-4908-B9B3-76900407D9DC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hi all - I decided to take a chance to use this for replacing my tesla style unit. I have all audio working but no a/c climate controls at all. What is the app for climate? I don't see anything that controls a/c. I added the touch assistant button but it just has shortcut functionality but no climate control app. Thoughts? I've done 1 factory reset hoping that would solve it. No dice so far. I have a 2004 LX.
 
I couldnt get the Bluetooth working with my OBDII bluetooth adapter and torque pro it wont show up in the list. It works fine on my phone and other android tablets. I wonder if Teyes locks it out and forces us to buy their OBDII bluetooth adapter.
 
Hi all - I decided to take a chance to use this for replacing my tesla style unit. I have all audio working but no a/c climate controls at all. What is the app for climate? I don't see anything that controls a/c. I added the touch assistant button but it just has shortcut functionality but no climate control app. Thoughts? I've done 1 factory reset hoping that would solve it. No dice so far. I have a 2004 LX.

Try Vehicle settings > Air conditioning

Make sure your Canbus settings are correct.

Try reboot.
 
One of the two screws on the bottom of the plastic frame which secures it to the radio seems to be stripped. It's like a plastic thread does anyone know how I could attempt to repair it.
 
Sorry for all the posts. Here is a pic that has me confused there are two camera in's unsure which to use.
PXL_20220610_151712830.MP.jpg
 
I havent buttoned it up yet until i can confirm where the radio antenna does any help out there?

The back of my unit had holes for both of the factory antenna wires. Left side (close to the steering wheel), towards the bottom. No idea if they work as I haven't used the radio since I got the LX, all sound through CarPlay.

For routing the wire:
For backup cam wiring, using their camera—the wire for mine routes behind the glovebox, then drops underneath through the floor grommet on the RHS and is zip-tied to the rear AC lines. I have additional wires running through that location, so it made sense for mine. I also have rear drawers installed and would almost rather have a root canal than take those out, so an interior run was out of the question.

Before you assume that will work for you: tape or tie the wire down loosely, and check for length. My camera is mounted on a dual-swingout bumper, very far to the right side. I have a little bit of length to spare, but not enough to mount the camera in the stock license plate location.

IMG_0846.jpeg

It covers the TA in UTAH. Far from optimal location, but it's the best I could do.

Electrical connections:
I found a few references in other forums that you might could skip the yellow wire, since the "active" state should just read off the CANBUS anyway. I chose to just wire it as the diagram specified. There are a few inputs on the back of the head unit—you want the one labeled "CAMERA". IDK why, but others online reference the other input (four letters, something like CRMT?) as providing crap quality if you use it.

Teyes diagram: TEYES CC3 - https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/map.html

On the head unit side, you have to tap into G3 and G5. On my harness, that's the red and brown on the power connector.
IMG_0844 2.jpeg

Ignore the third tap in the middle, that's me fixing a screwup with what I had on hand.

At the rear (I don't have pictures of that, sorry), I ran two wires from the factory reverse light. One power, one ground—you just have to get enough length to match up with your camera location. If you plan to mount near the factory location, then you won't need additional wiring.

Power goes to the yellow wire attached to the RCA video cable supplied. Ground goes to the black on the power wires supplied. And for whatever reason, the reds get connected together.

So far (one whole day lol), it's working well. Apologies for taking so long to get it done and get back to you, just a way busier week than I'd hoped for.
 
Sorry for all the posts. Here is a pic that has me confused there are two camera in's unsure which to use.View attachment 3030231

I think you want "CAMARA IN"—of those two, it's the only one that will accept the male end of the camera plug anyway. I swear there's a third input (a second female)—use whichever is marked Camera, not the one with four letters.
 
The back of my unit had holes for both of the factory antenna wires. Left side (close to the steering wheel), towards the bottom. No idea if they work as I haven't used the radio since I got the LX, all sound through CarPlay.

For routing the wire:
For backup cam wiring, using their camera—the wire for mine routes behind the glovebox, then drops underneath through the floor grommet on the RHS and is zip-tied to the rear AC lines. I have additional wires running through that location, so it made sense for mine. I also have rear drawers installed and would almost rather have a root canal than take those out, so an interior run was out of the question.

Before you assume that will work for you: tape or tie the wire down loosely, and check for length. My camera is mounted on a dual-swingout bumper, very far to the right side. I have a little bit of length to spare, but not enough to mount the camera in the stock license plate location.

View attachment 3030295
It covers the TA in UTAH. Far from optimal location, but it's the best I could do.

Electrical connections:
I found a few references in other forums that you might could skip the yellow wire, since the "active" state should just read off the CANBUS anyway. I chose to just wire it as the diagram specified. There are a few inputs on the back of the head unit—you want the one labeled "CAMERA". IDK why, but others online reference the other input (four letters, something like CRMT?) as providing crap quality if you use it.

Teyes diagram: TEYES CC3 - https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/map.html

On the head unit side, you have to tap into G3 and G5. On my harness, that's the red and brown on the power connector.
View attachment 3030298
Ignore the third tap in the middle, that's me fixing a screwup with what I had on hand.

At the rear (I don't have pictures of that, sorry), I ran two wires from the factory reverse light. One power, one ground—you just have to get enough length to match up with your camera location. If you plan to mount near the factory location, then you won't need additional wiring.

Power goes to the yellow wire attached to the RCA video cable supplied. Ground goes to the black on the power wires supplied. And for whatever reason, the reds get connected together.

So far (one whole day lol), it's working well. Apologies for taking so long to get it done and get back to you, just a way busier week than I'd hoped for.
Thank you so much my.last question is in reference to the picture i posted above which cam in do i use?
 
I couldnt get the Bluetooth working with my OBDII bluetooth adapter and torque pro it wont show up in the list. It works fine on my phone and other android tablets. I wonder if Teyes locks it out and forces us to buy their OBDII bluetooth adapter.

Try this:

Hooking up bluetooth to the head unit is WEIRD.
 
Thank you i will try this
 
The back of my unit had holes for both of the factory antenna wires. Left side (close to the steering wheel), towards the bottom. No idea if they work as I haven't used the radio since I got the LX, all sound through CarPlay.

For routing the wire:
For backup cam wiring, using their camera—the wire for mine routes behind the glovebox, then drops underneath through the floor grommet on the RHS and is zip-tied to the rear AC lines. I have additional wires running through that location, so it made sense for mine. I also have rear drawers installed and would almost rather have a root canal than take those out, so an interior run was out of the question.

Before you assume that will work for you: tape or tie the wire down loosely, and check for length. My camera is mounted on a dual-swingout bumper, very far to the right side. I have a little bit of length to spare, but not enough to mount the camera in the stock license plate location.

View attachment 3030295
It covers the TA in UTAH. Far from optimal location, but it's the best I could do.

Electrical connections:
I found a few references in other forums that you might could skip the yellow wire, since the "active" state should just read off the CANBUS anyway. I chose to just wire it as the diagram specified. There are a few inputs on the back of the head unit—you want the one labeled "CAMERA". IDK why, but others online reference the other input (four letters, something like CRMT?) as providing crap quality if you use it.

Teyes diagram: TEYES CC3 - https://cc3.teyes.ru/en/map.html

On the head unit side, you have to tap into G3 and G5. On my harness, that's the red and brown on the power connector.
View attachment 3030298
Ignore the third tap in the middle, that's me fixing a screwup with what I had on hand.

At the rear (I don't have pictures of that, sorry), I ran two wires from the factory reverse light. One power, one ground—you just have to get enough length to match up with your camera location. If you plan to mount near the factory location, then you won't need additional wiring.

Power goes to the yellow wire attached to the RCA video cable supplied. Ground goes to the black on the power wires supplied. And for whatever reason, the reds get connected together.

So far (one whole day lol), it's working well. Apologies for taking so long to get it done and get back to you, just a way busier week than I'd hoped for.
This worked thank you
 
Anyone got a 2006+ working 100%? I tried one of the Phoenix Tesla models like two years ago and never got it working right (audio buzzing and other issues).
 
Anyone got a 2006+ working 100%? I tried one of the Phoenix Tesla models like two years ago and never got it working right (audio buzzing and other issues).
I have a 2006 LX470 and it is working for me. I haven't tested all the features yet, but audio works great and A/C controls are working. I'm able to use the volume knob as well as the steering wheel volume control and phone control.

Someone mentioned a hissing sound earlier in this thread and I have an idea as to what might cause that. The volume knob and the volume on the head unit seem to operate separately. It's almost like having an iPod plugged in to a stereo through a headphone jack. You can adjust the volume of the device and you can adjust the volume of the stereo/head unit separately. When I turn the volume knob all the way up I get a hissing sound, but the volume on the unit is still at the same level. Just turning the volume knob down makes it go away. Does that make sense?
 
I have a 2006 LX470 and it is working for me. I haven't tested all the features yet, but audio works great and A/C controls are working. I'm able to use the volume knob as well as the steering wheel volume control and phone control.

Someone mentioned a hissing sound earlier in this thread and I have an idea as to what might cause that. The volume knob and the volume on the head unit seem to operate separately. It's almost like having an iPod plugged in to a stereo through a headphone jack. You can adjust the volume of the device and you can adjust the volume of the stereo/head unit separately. When I turn the volume knob all the way up I get a hissing sound, but the volume on the unit is still at the same level. Just turning the volume knob down makes it go away. Does that make sense?

I have an 05 I noticed the same separate volume phenomena. Steering wheel and screen volume button cause the screen volume to go up and appear on screen. While the volume knob doesnt show an increase. Almost as if its being amplified twice one through the car and one through the screen. Probably want the screen volume higher like you said.
 
I have a 2006 LX470 and it is working for me. I haven't tested all the features yet, but audio works great and A/C controls are working. I'm able to use the volume knob as well as the steering wheel volume control and phone control.

Someone mentioned a hissing sound earlier in this thread and I have an idea as to what might cause that. The volume knob and the volume on the head unit seem to operate separately. It's almost like having an iPod plugged in to a stereo through a headphone jack. You can adjust the volume of the device and you can adjust the volume of the stereo/head unit separately. When I turn the volume knob all the way up I get a hissing sound, but the volume on the unit is still at the same level. Just turning the volume knob down makes it go away. Does that make sense?

That is interesting, I don't recall trying to troubleshoot it that way. Would make sense if it was running through the LC and head unit amplifiers. Think I will order and hope for the best, hopefully the Teyes return policy is decent.
 

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