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To lean it out it is just a matter of data logging it and adjusting the load maps.

So the initial tune was done on a dyno and on the dyno you don't really hit a lot of the load points that you do on the street.

So we will need to get in the truck with a laptop, a driver and the tuner. The driver will drive the spots that need work and the tuner can data log and watch the load points and make the changes.

To lean it out we have a few ways it can be done. We can adjust the MAF voltage map, adjust the O2 voltage manipulation map, or remove fuel from the fuel map. Or in reality the tuner will probably do all of these. I will leave it up to him on how he wants to adjust the target fueling at that load point, but I am sure we can get within a mpg or so of how it was stock even with fuel injectors that are twice as large.
 
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Might just be an over active imagination but I am feeling some strange transmission behavior, some weird clunk between first and second and the slow shifts. I hope it's just a matter of doing the shift kit and getting more fluid pressure, and some more clamping pressure on the clutches. I am going to be driving it easy for a while but not easy because its fun! Haha

Trans gaskets are ordered and I will be doing the shift kit in my garage I suppose. The transmission wizard I have heard about seems to be unavailable.
 
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Thanks yeah that is what I plan to do, I have ordered the gaskets. I will pull the pan off in the garage and drill out the holes. I was thinking I would just go with the "hot rod" size. I am ok with firm shifts, and if it helps with higher pressure and cooler running I am all for it.

Do you know if the trans filter is replaceable or is it a metal screen filter that is just remove, clean and reinstall?

I have found a small exhaust leak at the downpipe so I will have to take the truck back to the shop they have ordered a Borg Warner EFR specific V-band and I am also going to change to the higher boost waste gate actuator, since the tuner seems to think that the low boost actuator I have isn't holding as much boost to redline as he would like.

Have you checked your mileage after the turbo? Haha driving around town I love hearing the turbo spool and I am only getting around 9mpg, but I think we can still lean it out a little, and I am sure after a while I will be used to it and I won't be boosting all the time.
 
Don't do the hot rod ones. I did the truck size holes and it was more than enough.

Filter should be fine. Mine had 240k on it. Doubt it was ever changed or off. Looked new. Stainless mesh. Just use brake cleaner on it.

I just towed my car (4200lbs car and trailer) to an event 400miles and got 11mpg. Haven't got any non towing average for you yet.
 
lilevo said:
Don't do the hot rod ones. I did the truck size holes and it was more than enough.


I just towed my car (4200lbs car and trailer) to an event 400miles and got 11mpg. Haven't got any non towing average for you yet.
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>>>>>>> The advice on using the "truck size" drill holes rather than the "hot rod" ones is excellent to know for all of us considering trans mods. Thanks for that. I expect Ryan can go to the larger holes later if he ever needs to, but it is probably harder to go backwards.

lilevo, 11 mpg while towing that heavy load seems pretty good. I just towed my ~1300 lb trailer and a moderately full load about 1000 miles and got 14 mpg (per scan gauge, at close to sea level) in my relatively stock 80. I expected to get less. My normal mostly hwy mpg is 16.

Ryan, I expect many of us are interested in how your tune turns out, including mpg on your set loop. I am jealous of your set up.
 
Western Flyer,

My before highway mileage was exactly what you were seeing right at 16. SO once I get the tune dialed I will be able to give you a good comparison to what you would likely see on this turbo setup. It will probably be 2-2.5 weeks until I get everything straightened back out.

- V-band flange ordered
- remove the downpipe cut off the old v-band and weld on the new
- transmission plate gaskets ordered
- intall the shift kit
- order the higher boost wastegate actuator
- install the new actuator
- re-tune

The truck is still very drivable now, so I will continue to drive it and give impressions but so far I really love it.
 
Oh ok, what is the "hot rod" drilling for? I would assume it would be a little more firm but that it would prevent more wear on the clutches? What drawbacks do you see from the slightly bigger holes, increased wear? Potential for breaking the gears?

lilevo said:
Don't do the hot rod ones. I did the truck size holes and it was more than enough
Click to expand...
 
lilevo said:
Don't do the hot rod ones. I did the truck size holes and it was more than enough.

Filter should be fine. Mine had 240k on it. Doubt it was ever changed or off. Looked new. Stainless mesh. Just use brake cleaner on it.

I just towed my car (4200lbs car and trailer) to an event 400miles and got 11mpg. Haven't got any non towing average for you yet.
Click to expand...

I got 12.3 mpg on the way home, only difference was the moonroof being closed. Not sure if the Ohio vs Wisconsin gas made a difference either.
 
Thanks Beno! Proper 1FZ-FE sticker and new Teq oil cap! Beno is the man, Lowe Toyota will be getting some more business from me. Lol

image-1810909457.webp
 
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Full disclosure.

So I am not very happy with the FIC8.

Yes it works and it gives you control of injectors, spark and timing, that control is via piggybacking off of the stock computer and at times this leads to less than ideal results. The transition between open and closed loop is fairly smooth but to be safe we had to go richer than I wanted and I ended up with worse gas mileage. I see about 9mpg around town, but I also drive like an ass, but I think we can fix that, we just can't do it with the AEM FIC8. We also don't have ultimate control of the engine and are left with a computer that fights forced induction.

So moving forward we are going to try and work with ProEFI 128, and while it is a stand alone JMS racing is fairly confident that we can pass the correct outputs to the transmission so it is seamless. ProEFI is a fairly new name in Engine Control but they have been doing pretty good things. Their systems seems quite powerful.

I went with the AEM because on paper it should have worked and was the cheapest option around $650 but in reality it just doesn't do what AEM says it will do. The issues I am seeing have been expressed by Subaru owners on the AEM Forums since 2011 and AEM has done nothing to address them. I think it is an old product for them and not something they will invest any development or tech time on. You get what you pay for.
 
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