LX450 Stereo wiring

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I just replaced my Lexus stereo with a pioneer unit and new speakers along with a backup camera.

im still trying to figure out what to do with the cd changer. Has anyone tried replacing the changer with an inverter?
 
I just replaced my Lexus stereo with a pioneer unit and new speakers along with a backup camera.

im still trying to figure out what to do with the cd changer. Has anyone tried replacing the changer with an inverter?

I yanked out that whole unit, CD changer, subwoofer and put in a Tuffy lock box which I totally luv!

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I just replaced my Lexus stereo with a pioneer unit and new speakers along with a backup camera.

im still trying to figure out what to do with the cd changer. Has anyone tried replacing the changer with an inverter?
For sure. Search around here. Many have used that space for various other things like an inverter.
 
I just replaced my Lexus stereo with a pioneer unit and new speakers along with a backup camera.

im still trying to figure out what to do with the cd changer. Has anyone tried replacing the changer with an inverter?

Funny you mention it, I'm currently doing exactly that. Will post pics and details up after. 😊
 
Hey guys, just got done making the new wiring to bypass the amp on my LX.
Could not have done it without the help of this thread.
Btw, it looks like the Metra harness do not come with a lead to plug the dim controller, but I think I'll be fine without it.
Thanks for the help everyone

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If it is important to some, lot's of decks have an auto dim feature that is also customizable.
 
If it is important to some, lot's of decks have an auto dim feature that is also customizable.

Yep, I did this with mine...just set it to a certain time when you want it to dim...ezy pzy lemon sqzy ;)
 
Just wanted to say that reading through this thread lead to a successful first-time install of the new head unit. So thanks all for the information! Also, as others said above me, the dim feature that comes with head units is a game-changer if you do lots of night driving!
 
Followed this process with a few changes since I was using an Alpine amp, so extended speaker wires from the amp harness rather than the stereo harness.
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Finished product...hoping I did it all correctly.
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Success!
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Followed this process with a few changes since I was using an Alpine amp, so extended speaker wires from the amp harness rather than the stereo harness.
Interesting switches and dials
 
Interesting switches and dials
I assume you are referring to the Intercooler, Water Pump and Oil fan switches on the switchpro.

I built an air to water intercooler system and installed an external oil cooler on the frame rail to compliment the Turbo system.

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This thread is gold - super helpful. Thank you.

Has anyone explored the center console "subwoofer" (I think it was a 4.75 inch speaker).

Per another thread, it was powered by a separate 55 watt amp.
 
About to build my amp bypass cable.. Many thanks to the MUD folks in this thread. Just de-pinned the RCA connectors from the 70-8112 adapters.
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I ordered (2) 70-8112. It looks like the Metra 70-1761 and Scosche TA02B are the same part. Can anyone confirm? The reason I ask is that my local O'reilly had the 70-1761 on the shelf, so I won't have to wait on shipping.
 
Hey 97 CE here.

I have a so so cheap aftermarket stereo that has been fine. Had the Polk speaker PO installed finally give up. One did so violently the PR channel.

Replaced speakers, which is great. That PR/FR speaker channel tho…. It’s cloudy and sounds like it’s grounded etc. the rest of speakers sound great including the RR/PR, but the door and the dash speakers have that static that destroys the whole enjoyment of the other ones working so much better.

I cannot find where this thing is grounding…. Can’t find it. I’ve taken it all down and chased it to the dash and no improvement. The door and dash. Both do this; so whatever is wrong is north towards the HU from after where the union is between FR channel, that splits it to dash and door…

Them both having the same behavior, leads me to check harness and obvious stuff, loose or blown crap… nothing. I even chopped and resoldered the harness pos and neg for the channel…. Nothing.

I took apart the HU, and same same; I see no obvious interruptions or blowouts, char marks, anything a miss. I still can’t escape the thought the the HU is compromised on its output of that channel…. But I don’t know. I really cannot detect anything physically and the sound is working; but the static makes me unplug those speakers.

In the middle of this I’ve received my Alpine KTP445U for install…. This thread is beautiful BTW, thank you all.

I am not so great at some of the electrical concepts at play here…. Assuming HU is still fine and there is a ground somewhere in the line to speakers…

Can’t I just run all new speaker wire to the door from this new amp? I’d have to run them all; and that’s fine. But does anyone know if the problem will likely remain? I’m trying to bypass that entirely so I can stop trying to find it; I just don’t know how to do that from the point of installing the new amp…

Can anyone give me direction on this?

Thank You all, this is an extremely informative thread.
 
Have the

Alpine KT445U amp

Metra 70-1761

Scosche TA02B

Ton of legit speaker wire

Another red wolf harness, just to strip for connectors if I need…has the RCA plug that don’t end up getting used while the previous two harnesses do not. Moot point if they are not used bc removal of factory amp (which I’ve done)
 
Hey 97 CE here.

I have a so so cheap aftermarket stereo that has been fine. Had the Polk speaker PO installed finally give up. One did so violently the PR channel.

Replaced speakers, which is great. That PR/FR speaker channel tho…. It’s cloudy and sounds like it’s grounded etc. the rest of speakers sound great including the RR/PR, but the door and the dash speakers have that static that destroys the whole enjoyment of the other ones working so much better.

I cannot find where this thing is grounding…. Can’t find it. I’ve taken it all down and chased it to the dash and no improvement. The door and dash. Both do this; so whatever is wrong is north towards the HU from after where the union is between FR channel, that splits it to dash and door…

Them both having the same behavior, leads me to check harness and obvious stuff, loose or blown crap… nothing. I even chopped and resoldered the harness pos and neg for the channel…. Nothing.

I took apart the HU, and same same; I see no obvious interruptions or blowouts, char marks, anything a miss. I still can’t escape the thought the the HU is compromised on its output of that channel…. But I don’t know. I really cannot detect anything physically and the sound is working; but the static makes me unplug those speakers.

In the middle of this I’ve received my Alpine KTP445U for install…. This thread is beautiful BTW, thank you all.

I am not so great at some of the electrical concepts at play here…. Assuming HU is still fine and there is a ground somewhere in the line to speakers…

Can’t I just run all new speaker wire to the door from this new amp? I’d have to run them all; and that’s fine. But does anyone know if the problem will likely remain? I’m trying to bypass that entirely so I can stop trying to find it; I just don’t know how to do that from the point of installing the new amp…

Can anyone give me direction on this?

Thank You all, this is an extremely informative thread.
Yes you can run new wire straight from amp to speakers.

Mine is ran with RCA preouts from headunit to amp under the passenger seat, then I ran new speaker wires from amp to speakers in the door through the door wiring bundles. Only parts of the original wiring I used were the power/ground/ign(?) from the stock harness to the radio.
 

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