FloridaLife
SILVER Star
That's about how we are feeling!
LS Swap
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That's about how we are feeling!
Did you make sure that the ECU you have is compatible with a DBC setup? You can read more on what to look for below:
Started to remove all the stuff I'm not going to reuse in the engine bay, and a local Toyota enthusiast (who will hopefully be joining Mud) offered up his plasma cutter to get the engine mounts off. Got the mounts off in a jiffy
Still have to do some more engine bay prep, but am really happy with where things stand now.
Since my donor truck was a 2003 Tahoe, it originally came stock with the drive by wire setup. As noted above I am going to drive by cable just to make things IMO more reliable and simple. When you go from a...
Still have to do some more engine bay prep, but am really happy with where things stand now.
Since my donor truck was a 2003 Tahoe, it originally came stock with the drive by wire setup. As noted above I am going to drive by cable just to make things IMO more reliable and simple. When you go from a...
Are you sure it works like that? I think by doing that you will need the deive by cable ecm.
Beat me to it lolDid you make sure that the ECU you have is compatible with a DBC setup? You can read more on what to look for below:
Started to remove all the stuff I'm not going to reuse in the engine bay, and a local Toyota enthusiast (who will hopefully be joining Mud) offered up his plasma cutter to get the engine mounts off. Got the mounts off in a jiffy
Still have to do some more engine bay prep, but am really happy with where things stand now.
Since my donor truck was a 2003 Tahoe, it originally came stock with the drive by wire setup. As noted above I am going to drive by cable just to make things IMO more reliable and simple. When you go from a...
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Did you make sure that the ECU you have is compatible with a DBC setup? You can read more on what to look for below:
Started to remove all the stuff I'm not going to reuse in the engine bay, and a local Toyota enthusiast (who will hopefully be joining Mud) offered up his plasma cutter to get the engine mounts off. Got the mounts off in a jiffy
Still have to do some more engine bay prep, but am really happy with where things stand now.
Since my donor truck was a 2003 Tahoe, it originally came stock with the drive by wire setup. As noted above I am going to drive by cable just to make things IMO more reliable and simple. When you go from a...
I am a newbie to the LS world, but what researching I have done, and saw it again on BP Automotive's website on the page with the correct harness for it, it has to be the Blue & Red PCM, and that's what we've got.
Open it up and make sure it has the pins like mine did. That's the best way to verify.
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Would a '02 be the same ECU as a '03?
No idea, 2002 was a weird transition year. I got lucky with mine being an 03 having the IAC pins even though it originally came with a DBW setup.
Idle air control valve - basically an electronic valve that mounts in the throttle body that allows a controlled amount of air into the TB. Without it the truck won't idle unless you make other adjustments on the TB.
If your ECU doesn't have those pins I'd think that'd be at least one major issue.
This was my first thought. The PCM with the IAC pins can be used on both dbw and dbc, but the pcm without the iac pins can only be used on dbw. Even further. Sometimes these old PCMs are just effed up. I was having issues on the last ls swap i did for someone else a while back where my tuner couldnt get the idle right and had a lot of other issues even getting a base tune on the thing. Weird stuff like fans not turning on with the AC request, and tripping the fuse on the low pressure switch too. We had already paid for vats to be removed from the pcm etc. Just for s***s and giggles i pulled the PCM from my truck and tossed it onto the truck we were swapping and it cranked right up and idled perfectly, and the AC cycle worked perfectly in hptuners.
Ended up just being a bad pcm. Ordered a different pcm from ebay and it took the tune and is still driving to this day
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Looks like it has the IAC pins in the ECU, just not the writing on the circuit board. See pics below:
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Shifter Linkage Question:
First, thank you to those that gave info about getting the LS to run. It is running now and is crazy loud without the exhaust run & muffler on. A bigger / better wire to the on key did the trick.
We have a question for anyone that has run a 4L60E and Advanced Adapter kit with a vacuum shift split t-case and using the vacuum shift under the dash. Advanced didn't send instructions. What did you do for the shift adapter with the 4L60E? How did you tie in from the split t-case to the lever at the front of the 4L60E? The stock setup is not long enough and the Advanced kit came with a bracket used for a floor shift. If someone has already figured out a simple solution it would save us time. In the 2nd pic with the red circle, that lever is what we are trying to link to the dash shifter linkage. Thank you!
First, thank you to those that gave info about getting the LS to run. It is running now and is crazy loud without the exhaust run & muffler on. A bigger / better wire to the on key did the trick.
We have a question for anyone that has run a 4L60E and Advanced Adapter kit with a vacuum shift split t-case and using the vacuum shift under the dash. Advanced didn't send instructions. What did you do for the shift adapter with the 4L60E? How did you tie in from the split t-case to the lever at the front of the 4L60E? The stock setup is not long enough and the Advanced kit came with a bracket used for a floor shift. If someone has already figured out a simple solution it would save us time. In the 2nd pic with the red circle, that lever is what we are trying to link to the dash shifter linkage. Thank you!
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
And just to clarify, with the LS swap & 4L60E & Advanced Adapter kit, the vacuum split t-case sits up and to the right more. So we are wondering if you have to add a pivot point back near or at the t-case and then run a rod (linkage) up to the pivot point at the firewall for the linkage for the original dash shifter for the t-case, or were you able to run a rod straight from the pivot point near the firewall to the shifter on the t-case?
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
The LS is alive! Thanks for all the input!
Time to figure out the brakes:
Early on I had purchased a new '71 FJ40 dual reservoir brake master cylinder. But, not the booster. The master was missing a cap on 1 reservoir and the contents had turned solid. So I bought a new one.
Later came the decision to do the 1976 FJ40 front disc conversion. I've decided that with as much as has been done (and will be done) I should replace the booster too.
What booster do you guys recommend? One person told me possibly an FJ80 might cost less and work great, but I don't know if it will work with the master cylinder I bought? Or, do I need to just put on the master I bought (list it in the classifieds) and get a booster / master combo? And if so, which / where from do you guys recommend?
And brake lines - do you guys recommend buying a pre-bent kit, or buying straight lines locally and bending them? Bending takes time and time is money, so if it would be cheaper in the long run to buy a pre-bent kit then I'm open to that. If so, where is the best price?
Thanks everyone for any helpful insight!
Time to figure out the brakes:
Early on I had purchased a new '71 FJ40 dual reservoir brake master cylinder. But, not the booster. The master was missing a cap on 1 reservoir and the contents had turned solid. So I bought a new one.
Later came the decision to do the 1976 FJ40 front disc conversion. I've decided that with as much as has been done (and will be done) I should replace the booster too.
What booster do you guys recommend? One person told me possibly an FJ80 might cost less and work great, but I don't know if it will work with the master cylinder I bought? Or, do I need to just put on the master I bought (list it in the classifieds) and get a booster / master combo? And if so, which / where from do you guys recommend?
And brake lines - do you guys recommend buying a pre-bent kit, or buying straight lines locally and bending them? Bending takes time and time is money, so if it would be cheaper in the long run to buy a pre-bent kit then I'm open to that. If so, where is the best price?
Thanks everyone for any helpful insight!
Drop the vacuum shift - add one extendo arm and slap a floor shift in there - very simple 4x4 fix
Factory brake booster works fine - 80 series will work - so will 4Runner and mini truck
Toyota used the same bolt patterns for like 25 years so - find a combo you like and run it
Making brake lines is very easy - buy a roll of tubing - get a bender and go to town - slight learning curve but it’s cheap materials - save all your fitting 90% of the time you can cut them out and reuse on new lines - soft lines, most local parts stores can make on hand
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
This is my first ever FJ40 so I am not as knowledgeable as the rest of you guys, and especially not on the split t-cases. I was trying to get a manual shift split t-case because @MIKKELSEN who is working on it for me has done many manual t-cases and it would have been super fast and easy for him to add the stick. I had even already purchased a 2nd boot and trim ring for it. However, the only fairly local source for an FJ60 / FJ62 split t-case was cruisermatt in the Orlando area and all he had was vacuum shifted t-cases and he said since my '71 was originally a vacuum shifted t-case it would be easier. Not to mention that I recently had my 6th spine surgery, 4th low back, so not having to bend and lean over to the stick would be easier on me, and with the Advanced Adapter kit on the 4L60E transmission the stick shift for the split t-case would have ended up coming through the seat and right up the passenger's butt. Wouldn't want that. And it (the t-case) is sitting directly under the gas tank. So, I think we are at the point of no return on the vacuum shift setup.
I appreciate the input on the brakes though, very much. For some very odd reason my wife feels like with an LS under the hood that it might be important to be able to stop. Of course, that could be because when I had to stop working I lost the $1 Million Dollar Life Insurance policy that my employer had on me. If it weren't for that, she might not care about the brakes. Just Kidding! She not only loves me, but she likes me too, which is a good thing given how much this project has ended up costing or she might have already strangled me herself or put a pillow over my face during the night!
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FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Looking at boosters, it looks like the 1992 FJ80 with disc fronts and drum rears only has 3 studs through the firewall (if the image is accurate, and maybe it's not), while the 1976 FJ40 (first year of disc fronts & drum rears) image shows 4 studs on the front and 4 studs on the back, and I'm pretty sure my '71 had 4 studs through the firewall. See links / images below:
For a 1976 FJ40 (first year of disc fronts & drum rears, looks like 4 studs front & back):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11395313&cc=1276365&pt=1884
For a 1992 FJ80 with front discs & rear drums (looks like 4 studs front and 3 studs back?):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10892652&cc=1276657&pt=1884
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Has anyone out there setup cruise control on an LS swapped FJ40 with TBC (throttle by cable) and the original early FJ40 steering column? If so, please share which one you went with and how you hooked it up. We "think" on the LS harness the Green wire is the optional cruise control wire and is the Cruise Engaged, and the White wire is the Cruise Inhibit. Anything you share is appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
FloridaLife
SILVER Star
Cruise Control Question:
OK, I need to order cruise control for my LS Swapped FJ40. I'm thinking the Rostra might be a good choice but would appreciate other opinions.
I'm using a stock 2002 5.3 LM7 (truck Vortec LS Gen 3) with a throttle by cable throttle body.
Have any of you put cruise control on your rigs and used one of the factory holes on the dash, like where the chole and/or throttle pulls were, to mount a pull or turn knob or some type of switch in the factory dash hole? If so, which one, where did you get it, and how satisfied are you with it?
Thank you!
OK, I need to order cruise control for my LS Swapped FJ40. I'm thinking the Rostra might be a good choice but would appreciate other opinions.
I'm using a stock 2002 5.3 LM7 (truck Vortec LS Gen 3) with a throttle by cable throttle body.
Have any of you put cruise control on your rigs and used one of the factory holes on the dash, like where the chole and/or throttle pulls were, to mount a pull or turn knob or some type of switch in the factory dash hole? If so, which one, where did you get it, and how satisfied are you with it?
Thank you!