LS Swap

[America]

I have an 1987 FJ60 with a 6.0 LS swap with 6L80 trans. Engine cooling temps are running around 210-215 degree's with ram air going down the hwy at 65-70 mph.
I have done the following:
1. Advanced Adapters radiator with trans cooler, 17" 2,400 CFM electric fan that runs constantly (shrouded to pull as efficiently as possible)
2. Heat sheilds on everything except the manifolds
3. I raised the back of the hood 1/2" for hot air to flow out
4. Synthetic fluids for engine and trans
5. Evans waterless coolant in the radiator system

Any ideas how to cool this beast down as I am going to Moab this fall and I will not have ram air crawling around.

Thank you,

Kevin

 

[cruisermatt]

210-215 is fine. How much cooler do you want the coolant in your cylinder heads to be?

 

[kody472]

From my GM mechanic days, that's normal operating temperature for an LS.

 

[BurntToast]

What PSI radiator cap? But as others have said that’s pretty normal

 

[mano002]

I have an 1987 FJ60 with a 6.0 LS swap with 6L80 trans. Engine cooling temps are running around 210-215 degree's with ram air going down the hwy at 65-70 mph.

I also have a 6.0 in my 84FJ60. In my research, the thermostat doesn't fully open until 212. I would be leave it alone unless you get up to 230 on the regular.

 

[America]

210-215 is fine. How much cooler do you want the coolant in your cylinder heads to be?

Thanks...............this was my first swap and I'm in WI. I'm going to MOAB this fall, so low speeds during the trail rides/rock crawling have me concerned as things can heat up fast. I want to find out now, not then. That stated, I believe I have fixed my issue by upgrading to a Crown Vic fan & shroud which provides 1,100 more CFM than my old fan. My temps are now running at 200F.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

If the advance adapter radiator is anything like i had back in the 90s in my 93 extra cab with a small block its trash.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

whenever possible, I do mechanical fan clutch. Electric has not worked for me in TX. Those that have done electric fans I know in TX are constantly concerned about temps creeping with time, especially trails. I know there are some great electric fan options out there. Just sharing my perspective.

 

[NCFJ]

The temps that you mention are normal for an LS. I use Ron Davis radiators and the fans generally shut off around 35-40MPH going down the road. The radiator is doing it's job. If your fans are always running I would look at the radiator.

Where did you dump your steam line? Top of radiator or a surge tank are the only two options. I've seen folks drill and tap the water pump and they dump it there, WRONG. The idea is to remove air (steam) from the system to the top of the radiator or tank where the liquid drops out and air remains in the top of the radiator or tank where it belongs.

These motors are pretty basic regarding cooling. Huge lights in front of the radiator?

 

[Lead Head]

I have an 1987 FJ60 with a 6.0 LS swap with 6L80 trans. Engine cooling temps are running around 210-215 degree's with ram air going down the hwy at 65-70 mph.
I have done the following:
1. Advanced Adapters radiator with trans cooler, 17" 2,400 CFM electric fan that runs constantly (shrouded to pull as efficiently as possible)

The fan running constantly is not a good thing. It should not be needed just driving down the road at 40+ MPH unless you're charging up a hill with a trailer. It should be controlled by the PCM to turn on as necessary.

3. I raised the back of the hood 1/2" for hot air to flow out

This does not help cooling, except maybe at low speeds. At high speeds, there's something called the "cowl induction effect", and air actually bounces off the windshield and will force it's way into that gap. At that point, you're just increasing the air pressure under the hood and causing less air to flow through the radiator.

5. Evans waterless coolant in the radiator system

Don't run this stuff. There is a reason why not a single production vehicle comes with Evan's Waterless Coolant. It has significantly lower thermal conductivity, thermal capacity, and heat transfer coefficient compared to water. Engines almost always run significantly hotter with Evan's unless it has an outrageously oversized cooling system in a very under-stressed application.

It's basically only suitable for environmentally sensitive applications where boiling over cannot be permitted. It wouldn't surprise me if this a big part of your issue.

This was my first swap and I'm in WI. I'm going to MOAB this fall, so low speeds during the trail rides/rock crawling have me concerned as things can heat up fast. I want to find out now, not then. That stated, I believe I have fixed my issue by upgrading to a Crown Vic fan & shroud which provides 1,100 more CFM than my old fan. I also installed a 160F thermostat so I get the coolant flowing quicker. My temps are now running at 200F.

If you installed a 160°F thermostat, and your coolant temperatures are sitting at 200°F, you haven't fixed anything. Your cooling system is not keeping up. These engines also run best at warmer temperatures - 160°F stat will just increase wear and fuel consumption.

• Switch back to proper water-based coolant
• Wire the fan up for PCM control. The fan running constantly will not do your electrical system any favors
• Install the stock thermostat

After you do the above three things, evaluate the cooling system performance. If it still can't keep up, then I recommend you get a different radiator. There are number of radiators that people here recommend for LS-swaps. Remember with the stock thermostat, 190-210°F is normal operating temperature for these engines.

 

[mano002]

On the road, my truck runs at 200, with the fans only really coming on in traffic, or a a slow-speed climb. I have upgraded the fan since my last wheeling trip and the better fan definitely cycles one and off more than the last one. My set-points for the fan are 215-on, and 205 off. I have my steam ports tied into my upper rad hose, and a 19PSI rad cap that came on my aluminum 3 core rad.

I have played with the trans tuning in my holley terminator to use lock-up more often, so I think that will help reduce the trans temps and thus the heat load I'm looking to dissipate.

 

[YotaJosh]

Can your heater hose ports make a complete loop even when your heater is off? If you block the flow between the inlet and outlet, your water pump will cavitate. Look into an H pipe in your heater hose loop.

 

[NCFJ]

Can your heater hose ports make a complete loop even when your heater is off? If you block the flow between the inlet and outlet, your water pump will cavitate. Look into an H pipe in your heater hose loop.

I use a GM style heater valve, mounts right at the two ports on the water pump. When the valve is closed it blocks of the heater core circuit and allows the flow right back into the water pump. You can even get them with electric controlled on off.

 

[FloridaLife]

Anyone know where I can get some good coil covers for the 5.3 LS (LM7)? I found some at a decent price on Summit but they only get 2 stars on the review. I'd like to do something like this owner did with "TOYOTA" down each coil cover. I think it looks great! And, I want to do something other than the plastic intake cover with Vortec on it. Check out these coil covers in this short video: