LS Swap

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Hey Matt, or anyone else that has done an LS swap, which fuel pump did you go with? A Gemini search recommended the inline Walbro 255 electric fuel pump mounted near the tank to push more than pull.

Also, did you add a return fuel line to the gas tank, or did you use something like this closer to the engine and run the return to it to create a pressurized loop?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XYYKYG8/?tag=ihco-20

Thanks!
 
I did this. Using a factory GM pump

range-industries.com

GM Steel Weld-in Fuel Pump Mounting Ring (Large Diameter)

This ring allows you to run a GM factory fuel pump module in your steel fuel tank. Cut a hole in the top of your tank and weld it in our ring. Drop in the fuel pump module and secure in place with the provided hardware. If you are using a plastic fuel module, select the variant with a clamp...
range-industries.com range-industries.com
 
fireflyr said:
I think the biggest challenge with these LS Swaps is planning ahead so you aren’t having to redo anything. I was planning on a new wire harness, Dakota Digital gauges and a BP Automotive stand alone LS harness. Throw in a new column and steering wheel with Saginaw power steering…. Getting all that stuff to work together AND finding room for all of it; it’s quite the challenge. I ran into lots of little compatibility issues but the nice thing was I probably wasn’t the first guy to have to reason it out. Neutral safety switches, brake light switches, relocating gas tanks and fuel pumps and return lines and fuel level sensors and and and…

I read a lot of build threads. You’re essentially building your own vehicle so have a goal in mind before you start.

It was so much fun I’ve been thinking about a little Ford Cortina GT mark 1 sitting in a field a half mile from me. Would an LS fit? Six speed Tremec?
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I'm curious how you liked your BP Automotive harness. We used a Howell harness in one swap, and it was great. To "save" money we tried a BP Automotive harness on another swap. Not so great. I much preferred the Howell harness, as well as Howell's customer service.

I hope your experience was better....
 
Wasatch Jay said:
I'm curious how you liked your BP Automotive harness. We used a Howell harness in one swap, and it was great. To "save" money we tried a BP Automotive harness on another swap. Not so great. I much preferred the Howell harness, as well as Howell's customer service.

I hope your experience was better....
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Interesting. I was going to use a Howell harness, but the guy where I bought the LS from built me a custom harness with everything clearly labeled.
 
HELP - I need some helpful advice please.

So, with doing the LS & automatic transmission swap (4L60E) and the electric power steering and using the original steering column and box, the LS & transmission had to move over to the passenger's side about 1" to clear everything. With running the vacuum style split case, the vacuum actuator sits too high to run my OEM stock gas tank in it's original location. If we drop the t-case below the frame rails then it's only about 6" from the ground. Anyone have any solutions? @cruisermatt have you run into this problem before? Or @Jdc1 have you run into this before? Did you guys get a different gas tank and relocate it, or did you drop the t-case lower and reduce the ground clearance, or another solution?

Thank you everyone for any suggestions!

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FloridaLife said:
HELP - I need some helpful advice please.

So, with doing the LS & automatic transmission swap (4L60E) and the electric power steering and using the original steering column and box, the LS & transmission had to move over to the passenger's side about 1" to clear everything. With running the vacuum style split case, the vacuum actuator sits too high to run my OEM stock gas tank in it's original location. If we drop the t-case below the frame rails then it's only about 6" from the ground. Anyone have any solutions? @cruisermatt have you run into this problem before? Or @Jdc1 have you run into this before? Did you guys get a different gas tank and relocate it, or did you drop the t-case lower and reduce the ground clearance, or another solution?

Thank you everyone for any suggestions!

View attachment 4159035
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Just replied to the last thread. - For the way you’ll use your rig- look into adding the S10 blazer tank in the rear of the frame. It even has the spot for the GM FI pump module which will save $time$. You’re metal guy looks capable enough to relocate the fuel fill.
 
Jdc1 said:
Just replied to the last thread. - For the way you’ll use your rig- look into adding the S10 blazer tank in the rear of the frame. It even has the spot for the GM FI pump module which will save $time$. You’re metal guy looks capable enough to relocate the fuel fill.
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This is a great thought. I forgot about that option.

I actually have this setup for mine and decided to go in stock tank due to the fact I really wanted to move my rear axle back eventually.
 
clrussell said:
This is a great thought. I forgot about that option.

I actually have this setup for mine and decided to go in stock tank due to the fact I really wanted to move my rear axle back eventually.
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I’m still trying to figure out which direction i’m going to take my next personal build.
 
Jdc1 said:
Just replied to the last thread. - For the way you’ll use your rig- look into adding the S10 blazer tank in the rear of the frame. It even has the spot for the GM FI pump module which will save $time$. You’re metal guy looks capable enough to relocate the fuel fill.
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Thank you Jesse.
 
Jdc1 said:
Just replied to the last thread. - For the way you’ll use your rig- look into adding the S10 blazer tank in the rear of the frame. It even has the spot for the GM FI pump module which will save $time$. You’re metal guy looks capable enough to relocate the fuel fill.
Click to expand...

And, although I rode around for many years with my '69 1/2 ton SWB fleet side C/10 tank sloshing around right behind my seat, having my wife and/or kids sit on top of the gas tank isn't my preferred method of driving them around. LOL
 
Wasatch Jay said:
I'm curious how you liked your BP Automotive harness. We used a Howell harness in one swap, and it was great. To "save" money we tried a BP Automotive harness on another swap. Not so great. I much preferred the Howell harness, as well as Howell's customer service.

I hope your experience was better....
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I've run bp harness on a couple things, never had an issue. even had them segment swap my computer since I used a 4l80 w a 5.3. what issues did you have?
 
Wasatch Jay said:
I'm curious how you liked your BP Automotive harness. We used a Howell harness in one swap, and it was great. To "save" money we tried a BP Automotive harness on another swap. Not so great. I much preferred the Howell harness, as well as Howell's customer service.

I hope your experience was better....
Click to expand...

The BP harness has been great. Zero issues.
 
FloridaLife said:
And, although I rode around for many years with my '69 1/2 ton SWB fleet side C/10 tank sloshing around right behind my seat, having my wife and/or kids sit on top of the gas tank isn't my preferred method of driving them around. LOL
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I’ve got this sticker on the BlueBerry build.
IMG_7414.webp
IMG_1222.webp
 
@Gotta40 and @fireflyr, I'm glad your experiences were better than mine.

In my case the Howell harness was the proverbial "plug and play", with (IIRC) a four wire hookup. The BP Automotive one was not so simple and had to open up the harness to add wires for electric fans, for example. When you're constructing a harness, it's pretty easy to add wires, but when the harness is fully assembled and you need to add wires, it's MUCH more time consuming. My impression is using electric fans for radiator cooling on an LS swap is very common. When I ordered the harness it wasn't mentioned they weren't included, nor were they available as a customization option. (Maybe they are now, I don't know.)

The Howell harness came with those wires in it. Yes, it was more expensive, but for me the extra money was more than worth it.
 
X2 on Howell, They will put a tune in thats a bit more specific to your build as well. With an auto and a VSS I would definitely go Howell. With the manual and no VSS it uses crank signal to adjust fuel so when coming to a stop its rich for a second or two.
 
Wasatch Jay said:
@Gotta40 and @fireflyr, I'm glad your experiences were better than mine.

In my case the Howell harness was the proverbial "plug and play", with (IIRC) a four wire hookup. The BP Automotive one was not so simple and had to open up the harness to add wires for electric fans, for example. When you're constructing a harness, it's pretty easy to add wires, but when the harness is fully assembled and you need to add wires, it's MUCH more time consuming. My impression is using electric fans for radiator cooling on an LS swap is very common. When I ordered the harness it wasn't mentioned they weren't included, nor were they available as a customization option. (Maybe they are now, I don't know.)

The Howell harness came with those wires in it. Yes, it was more expensive, but for me the extra money was more than worth it.
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weird, all of mine came prewired for electric fan. don't remember checking any boxes. and it was like 2 power wires a ground, an a fuel pump wire ready to go.
 
clrussell said:
If you stay Toyota 3 speed just swap the diffs to 3.73 and roll on.

My 5.3 4 speed 40 will run as fast as you want to drive it. It’s very comfortable engine wise at 65mph on 35” tires and 4.11.
33s and 3.73 would be pretty much the same.

H55F is the most documented, and quite possible the easiest as you can source a brand new trans and transfer case combo from many vendors.

I 1000% do not regret my LS swap. It has made my 40 my favorite vehicle to drive. Mine gets drove daily, starts like a 2020, has enough power to be scary, yet is completely refined engine wise. Highly recommend if you are not a purist and plan on driving yours.
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What’s your setup? What trans did you run with your LS?
 
clrussell said:
I have a build but it’s kind of a rollercoaster.
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This is the way with highly customized vehicles. Then you actually use them for things may be out of your engineering realm. Things break and leak.

Mine is currently down waiting for me to make a return line from my sm465 to the Orion. Oh yeah and something is squealing pretty bad, I think it’s the throw out bearing. So I guess it’s time to pull the transmission and Tcase anyways. The wife is getting impatient…
 
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