Low boost, weird wastegate issues… (1 Viewer)

[FJBen]

Here’s an update:

Fuel has been turned up a couple times
A boost leak was fixed.

Im alive. All good news. BOMBED it over cameron pass today at 60mph almost the entire way and EGTs only went up to 1050 once for a short time but held. I was pushing it pretty hard. (FYI Cameron pass is 10,000ft on altitude)

Hit 14.1 boost on the 392 hill westbound. EGT’s didn’t go above 1000. Seems really happy with the new hose.

Took Hwy 25 North past Owl Canyon exit yesterday. 70mph. All good on boost and EGTs however I’m still getting higher engine temps than I would like. Was at around 218 when I returned southbound. Temp dropped immediately to 180-200 downhill.


So flogging and bombing sustained = 14.1psi and 1080 egt.

 

[bj70bc]

i envy those egt's
my coolant only ever goes to 210 tho

 

[FJBen]

i envy those egt's
my coolant only ever goes to 210 tho

Yeah I still think something isn’t quite right. Maybe he can turn fuel up more, seems like it with the egts. It’s just hitting that wall at 12-14psi with the wastegate wired shut.

I think the cooling issue is mainly the electric Ford contour fans. He is also running 4.88s which I think are making the 4bd1t turn too high of rpm, that in combination with those fans causes the temp to rise.

 

[FJBen]

Any other thoughts or just keep turning up?

 

[bj70bc]

could be a leak on the intake manifold gasket or exhaust manifold gasket or turbo flange gasket....
wired waste gate could still be leaking past a bit...

 

[mudgudgeon]

He is also running 4.88s which I think are making the 4bd1t turn too high of rpm, that in combination with those fans causes the temp to rise.

What RPM is it cruising at?

I'd be suspicious of the electric fans. An engine fan will still pull air at highway speeds

I reckon sort out the cooling before pushing the EGTs higher with more fuel

 

[FJBen]

What RPM is it cruising at?

I'd be suspicious of the electric fans. An engine fan will still pull air at highway speeds

I reckon sort out the cooling before pushing the EGTs higher with more fuel

That was one of my thoughts as well. I think too high of rpm for a 4bd1t

He’s running 4.88s. So h55f, 37” bfg at (which by his rpm account puts them like 34.5-35 actual size

At 2300ish rpm he’s saying around 53mph.

So at 75mph that’s 3000rpm.

The radiator is a new aluminum unit, contour electric fans. He said on hills is when it heats up, coming back from New Mexico to colorado it was pushing 230 non stop. However egt are cool.

My thought was ditch the electric fans, go manual. See what changes that makes.

As for gearing, he could get a 10% overdrive for the split case so he’s more like 4.56 gears if that’s available. Not sure if it’s a big enough change but certainly cheaper than doing 2 diffs.

 

[mudgudgeon]

230⁰F is still OK if that's a peak temperature.

A good radiator cap that keeps things pressurised, and good coolant should still leave a margin of safety at 230⁰

You could call it good, and set up an engine temperature monitor with an alarm if coolant temps go beyond that

 

[mudgudgeon]

3000rpm is not hideous. No doubt noisy, but should be good to do that for mile after mile

 

[Dougal]

Two cooling questions:

1. Where/how are the heater lines connected.
2. What's the radiator/shroud setup.

3000rpm is ridiculous cruising rpm for a big diesel. I know they did that in the Isuzu trucks all day long. But we're pushing a lot less air and running more boost.

 

[FJBen]

Two cooling questions:

1. Where/how are the heater lines connected.
2. What's the radiator/shroud setup.

3000rpm is ridiculous cruising rpm for a big diesel. I know they did that in the Isuzu trucks all day long. But we're pushing a lot less air and running more boost.

The fan/shroud is just a ford contour dual fan setup. Not the best fit.

My red markings were to have him measure room for a mechanical/clutch setup.

Engine bay:

I agree on the 3000rpm. It’s too high and out of peak efficiency a ways.

 

[FJBen]

230⁰F is still OK if that's a peak temperature.

A good radiator cap that keeps things pressurised, and good coolant should still leave a margin of safety at 230⁰

You could call it good, and set up an engine temperature monitor with an alarm if coolant temps go beyond that

As far as I know that’s peak, but he usually pulls over or slows to cool at that point.

I still think it’s those electric fans.


Have you used the engine watchdog units or prefer one? I kind of like the idea of the bolt reading as it won’t get messed up by no coolant on probe.

Engine watchdog tm2
ENGINE WATCHDOG TM2, Engine Overheating Alarm, Gauge & Sensor - http://enginewatchdog.com/tm2_installation.html

Engine guardian egc3

ENGINE GUARDIAN WATCHDOG COOLANT + BOLT TYPE SENSOR EG3C RELAY CONTROL ALARM NEW | eBay - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181756010187?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=705-53470-19255-0&campid=5336682098&toolid=10001&customid=3174X601276Xa7be3642345b452116cb7c5c79d4d26e

 

[FJBen]

Latest updates. I’m still hedging my bet it’s the electric fans

Here’s the scenario. Driving Northbound on i-25 towards Cheyenne. Holding about 65-68mph. No cargo and about 15 gallons of fuel. It’s 60 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Boosting around 6 and hitting 13 on uphill acceleration. Plenty of power. My temp gradually climbs up to 220F. Same as if it where 100 degrees outside just took longer and didn’t exceed 220 as it commonly does in the summer.

 

[FJBen]

Another quick update. Hasn’t ever “boiled over”

But it’s repeatable.

Speed causes the heat
Summer it’s worse, and happens much faster
Cranking the heater helps shed heat

 

[bj70bc]

electric fans do suck

 

[FJBen]

electric fans do suck

I kind of feel like unless the car was designed for electric fans, they suck.

I’m sure there are (allegedly) much smarter people than me designing cars/engines/airflow/cooling. When we swap engines, cooling, airflow and the like we are blind to have issues