Looking for tips and tricks to keeping a big tired truck low. (1 Viewer)

[WrenchMonkey]

Ok so I'm building a truck from basically ground up I currently have in my garage 41.5 PBR tires. Saginaw 4 bolt steering box 60/80 series hybrid axles with Hellfire Knuckles. The trouble I'm running into is I really want to run ORI struts either 14 or 16" problem is the steering I'm doing 3 link front but with the Tie rod is hitting frame way before axle and to get the 7 to 8" of up travel ORI struts require I have to build this truck higher than I want just looking for any insights from people who have some more experience than me I can't really see how to get it lower or make things tuck up any higher at full stuff, thinking that having ORI struts on an overly tall landcruiser will be defeating the purpose

 

[gnob]

Alot of guys do custom front frame.

 

[74fj40]

Since you won’t use leafsprings you could do custom steering arms. Maybe put a down ward slope on them to keep the tie rod closer to the axle centerline.

 

[Mace]

Put your steering behind the axle and run full hydro.


Protected and easy..

 

[GW Nugget]

Put your steering behind the axle and run full hydro.


Protected and easy..

How can you run a rear tie rod on Hellfire knuckles?

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Can't run full hydro, as it will be street legal, wonder how running the tierod under arms will affect Ackerman, I can probably dream the arms for 1ton steering

 

[Mace]

is there a rule against full hydro on the street where you live?

You can still run the Tierod behind the axle. Just machine a set of double ended arms.. I suspect Dan could do it for you.

That being said, running the TR under the arm shouldn't bother Ackerman at all. If the arms are designed with the proper ackerman from the get go..

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Yes there is a rule against full Hydro on the street, must maintain a mechanical link.

Tierod behind the axle won't really help as then I run into motor and upper link issues. Maybe I'll ream the arms so I can run tie rod on the bottom

 

[Bripars40]

Seems like you need to consider this option.

Alot of guys do custom front frame.

 

[WrenchMonkey]

Yeah, custom front frame isn't that easy when your keeping steering box and drag link there is not much more in the front of these frames

 

[too tall]

You could notch the frame where the steering link makes contact. Then reinforce it above the notch.

 

[Mieser]

Pics of what you have now?

You could always drop the body on the frame to drop some overall height. Run a small subframe under the rails for link mounts. Drop the belly slightly.

 

[WrenchMonkey]

This is honestly alot harder than I thought last build of this truck was spring over and 37s was easy, but with the bigger tires everything changes, I'm finding I'm also gonna have to be higher to allow the rear tires to flex without needing to build fenders higher than the hard top bottom edge

 

[Mace]

6 to 7" of up flex is going to be hard to keep low. That's a fact.

 

[OldRocDoc]

Why do you think you need to have 7-8" of up travel ?

Look at some of these FJ40 builds with ORI struts. They work really well without that sort of up-travel or ride height:

Project "Goin' Big" FJ40 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Purpletop Garage

 

[WrenchMonkey]

ORI and most places I've read recommend centered on the strut to make use of the internal mechanics, especially it seems if you don't wanna run a sway bar. I was running 4" up on my last setup on leaf springs I still hit bumps hard enough an often enough to dent my oil pan so I figured more up travel wouldn't be the worst for me anyways

 

[Mace]

Ask @k9crazy how she likes her 40 on ORI's.

 

[gnob]

Ultimately you need to plan your build accordingly or compromise a bit behind the wheel. Theres going to be no way to get 8" of up (at the strut) and stay "low".
Im like 2-3" to bumps front/rear on 37s frame like 26" ithnk.

 

[CandyPants]

So...I love mine. But I have done nearly every suggestion made here. The frame is notched, the steering is full hydro behind the axle (I run D60s) with Reid knuckles (flipped left to right to get the steering behind the axle) with steering arms from WFO concepts (Ackerman is correct).

And my truck is tall. Mind you, it was taller before the ORIs and links (was sprung over). The suspension in there now lowered it 3”. It’s still tall.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I limited my up travel - I'm 4" over stock height on 38s (that is height with tires on). My ratio is 25% up 75% down. The other benefit is it drives a lot nicer on the road. Of course, the give away is I'm a lot closer to my bumps so high-speed runs across the desert ain't gonna happen.