Long Term 71 Pig build.
- Thread starter Mrbinks79
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Lou, I'm about 160 miles from College Station or so. I'm sure that when you come down for the 4th if you can't make it all the way down I may be able to get a pickup and meet you somewhere in the middle. Not sure since I don't know anyone down here with a truck. The seat will reside in my living room for a while. Extra couch.
Looks good dude. Holla if you wana grab a beer...
- Thread starter
- #45
Zulu,
Sounds like we're gonna be somewhere around Nacogdoches, Kinda far from you but don't know if we are gonna be north or where we will be staying.
Sounds like we're gonna be somewhere around Nacogdoches, Kinda far from you but don't know if we are gonna be north or where we will be staying.
Hi Mrbinks, 
on the yard out. Googled you, looks like you are in the sweet spot of Texas. Should have done this before. Here is my engine yard and rebuild. Hope it helps
Hey, looks like Lou is coming to see you, great guy, say hi.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/190289-74-f-engine-rebuild.html Hope he brings his Pig, that thing is a sweety.
on the yard out. Googled you, looks like you are in the sweet spot of Texas. Should have done this before. Here is my engine yard and rebuild. Hope it helpsHey, looks like Lou is coming to see you, great guy, say hi.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/190289-74-f-engine-rebuild.html Hope he brings his Pig, that thing is a sweety.
- Thread starter
- #47
thanks
I've spent many hours reading through your build and it has helped me out a lot and I'm sure it will help me out more as I have the time to get into the engine. Yeah Victoria is almost the perfect location. Right in the middle of Corpus, Houston, Austin and San Antonio. Not bad being in the middle in that case. Well guys I've had a long day.
Later
I've spent many hours reading through your build and it has helped me out a lot and I'm sure it will help me out more as I have the time to get into the engine. Yeah Victoria is almost the perfect location. Right in the middle of Corpus, Houston, Austin and San Antonio. Not bad being in the middle in that case. Well guys I've had a long day.
Later
Hi Mrbinks,
Hey, looks like Lou is coming to see you, great guy, say hi.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/190289-74-f-engine-rebuild.html Hope he brings his Pig, that thing is a sweety.
- Thread starter
- #48
Hey guys and gals (I know there are a few) Nothing new to add. Work has been interesting. Hope to be able to do some work on saturday. Intend on trying to use plasti gauges that rsbcruiser told me about to find out if the crank is bad or not, amongst other things. I'll take lots of pictures and keep everyone posted.
rsbcruiser I may copy and paste our PMs here so others can see your good advice.
Zach
rsbcruiser I may copy and paste our PMs here so others can see your good advice.
Zach
- Thread starter
- #49
Great info from rsbcruiser crank and engine info
Thanks for asking. I would reassemble so you can check the thrust clearance. At the same time you could plasti gage the rod and crank bearings. If you have never plasti gaged before don't let that hold you back because it is sooo easy and cheap. Plasti gaging will tell you two things, condition of the crank and bearings. Spin the crank in place to seee if it sticks in its' rotation. That will telll you if it is bent. Inspect the crank with a mag glass for cracks. Check the crank nose for wear where the HB goes on. With practice you can master snap gages to check your piston bores. Snap gages are pretty cheap. The catch is to get accurate measures you will need a 1-2 inch micrometer. I used calipers to take measurements off of the snap gages (tons of experience there). Took hundreds of measures at various depths in the bores to determine condition. When reassembling, the 2f requires special steps to insure it won't leak. NBD, easy to do but you need to be aware. Good luck.
Plasti gage is like soft fishing line. You put pieces of it in between the bearings and crank and torque the caps down. The PG Squishes to a controlled width. Telling you your gap between the bearing and crank. Pull the caps off and use the scale on the PG package to measure your gap. never used them untill just recently. Many parts stores carry it. They come in several ranges. Fairly cheap. There are several errors I made and then explained later in my thread so it is worth reading through before you follow anything in there. I show the snap gages in the thread. So, are you a machinist? I have been in the trade.
If your local auto parts store is worth its' salt they should have some. Might have to buy several sizes but it is cheap.
Thanks for asking. I would reassemble so you can check the thrust clearance. At the same time you could plasti gage the rod and crank bearings. If you have never plasti gaged before don't let that hold you back because it is sooo easy and cheap. Plasti gaging will tell you two things, condition of the crank and bearings. Spin the crank in place to seee if it sticks in its' rotation. That will telll you if it is bent. Inspect the crank with a mag glass for cracks. Check the crank nose for wear where the HB goes on. With practice you can master snap gages to check your piston bores. Snap gages are pretty cheap. The catch is to get accurate measures you will need a 1-2 inch micrometer. I used calipers to take measurements off of the snap gages (tons of experience there). Took hundreds of measures at various depths in the bores to determine condition. When reassembling, the 2f requires special steps to insure it won't leak. NBD, easy to do but you need to be aware. Good luck.
Plasti gage is like soft fishing line. You put pieces of it in between the bearings and crank and torque the caps down. The PG Squishes to a controlled width. Telling you your gap between the bearing and crank. Pull the caps off and use the scale on the PG package to measure your gap. never used them untill just recently. Many parts stores carry it. They come in several ranges. Fairly cheap. There are several errors I made and then explained later in my thread so it is worth reading through before you follow anything in there. I show the snap gages in the thread. So, are you a machinist? I have been in the trade.
If your local auto parts store is worth its' salt they should have some. Might have to buy several sizes but it is cheap.
Thanks Zach. How are the piggy bites healing? Cranky girls those pigs are. As I read my advice I noticed a couple errors (WHO, ME). The need for a 1-2 inch mic is for the crankshaft. Plasti gage won't tell you the whole picture but if given a choice between one or the other, I would go with the pllasti gage. Snap gaging (woops, another one, I should be calling them "telescoping gages") the bores requires a 3-4" mic to gain accurate readings. You can use calipers and get results but it takes patiences, many measurements and practice.
Richard
Richard
- Thread starter
- #51
rsb, Always good to catch mistakes yourself. You'll really hear about it here if someone else catches it. The pig bites are healing nicely. They are at that itchy point, but work is too busy to worry about them. Hope to get home some time soon so I can work on the piggy.
- Thread starter
- #52
Roof
Need some Ideas on fixing this roof?
Need some Ideas on fixing this roof?
- Thread starter
- #53
Roof
Need some Ideas on fixing this roof?
Need some Ideas on fixing this roof?
- Thread starter
- #54
New furniture... Loveseat?
Well I just got back from meeting with Lou on his way to College Station TX. He was nice enough to go out of his way to meet me. So I could buy a seat from him. Since the Piggy is currently down it's gonna reside in the living room for a while. Looks good as furniture. I also got a steering wheel from him that is in much better shape than my own. Now it's time to sell the buckets that came with the piggy. Check the for sale area if you are interested.
Z
Well I just got back from meeting with Lou on his way to College Station TX. He was nice enough to go out of his way to meet me. So I could buy a seat from him. Since the Piggy is currently down it's gonna reside in the living room for a while. Looks good as furniture. I also got a steering wheel from him that is in much better shape than my own. Now it's time to sell the buckets that came with the piggy. Check the for sale area if you are interested.
Z
- Thread starter
- #55
Well for anyone that is following this build sorry that I haven't really added much lately. It's been too damn hot to spend much time out in the garage. I'm sure I'll have a lot more to add as the temp starts coming down here in South TX. Winter is better right.
- Thread starter
- #57
Pighead, I'm beginning to understand. When we pulled the motor a week or so ago we had to really jack it up as high as it would go to get it out. I intend on pulling the grill and everything off the front so that I can put the motor, trans, tc, and pto back in in one shot. haven't gotten it done yet but have some time. The motor that I'm getting to replace the one I have won't be here for a while. Even then I will likely take my time a little because I'd like to get the engine bay cleaned up and painted before the motor goes back in.
- Thread starter
- #58
easier life
Okay so we all know that life is a lot easier if the front end of the pig is torn down to get the motor back in. So I went out in the garage today to see how much fun this was gonna be. All in all what I took apart was simple. My question however is. Are the headlight assembly areas attached to the sub fender or do they come off separate? I have a few other questions but I need to paint shop the pics first.
Okay so we all know that life is a lot easier if the front end of the pig is torn down to get the motor back in. So I went out in the garage today to see how much fun this was gonna be. All in all what I took apart was simple. My question however is. Are the headlight assembly areas attached to the sub fender or do they come off separate? I have a few other questions but I need to paint shop the pics first.
- Thread starter
- #59
55 exhaust
So here's a pic of the crappy exhaust install. Looks like instead of making a new manifold piece they just chopped up the one from the 1F. Oh and believe me there was a huge exhaust leak accompanied by this...
So here's a pic of the crappy exhaust install. Looks like instead of making a new manifold piece they just chopped up the one from the 1F. Oh and believe me there was a huge exhaust leak accompanied by this...
- Thread starter
- #60
more bad craftsmanship
here's the spot that the PTO came through on the front support. I had to make some extra cuts due to the PTO shaft not wanting to come free from the winch or from the U-joints. Intend on adding some heat and see what happens later.
here's the spot that the PTO came through on the front support. I had to make some extra cuts due to the PTO shaft not wanting to come free from the winch or from the U-joints. Intend on adding some heat and see what happens later.