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Discussion in 'VA/DC/MD- Capital Land Cruiser Club' started by John Smith, Sep 11, 2009.
F-ing NOVA assclowns.
They are afraid of the other NOVA assclowns suing them when they do it half ass and it comes apart.
Thanks Bob! I'll give him a call.
Then don't do a 1/2 asset job.
Anyone know where I can get my rotors turned these days?
Just replace them.
Yeah I probably will. Just seems silly to change rotors every time you change your pads. They're not too bad but do have a couple grooves in them.
Napa turns them. But new are just as cheap most of the time. $65 to tun 2 rotors $80 for 2 new rotors for my F250. (Name brand from Amazon can't remember brand). But I'm going to take my old ones to see if they can be turned for next time.
Does anyone have a good bolt extractor kit? I snapped a bolt on my roll bar removing it this past weekend and i need to get it out.
Edit: That I can borrow...
Forget bolt extractors. They are bad news and only compound the problem when they snap off (they are brittle). I removed dozens of snapped bolts using a plenty of Kroil (Ed's Red is supposed to be even better). Heat works too if you can get it on the bolt without damaging paint or starting a fire. I used a scratch awl to make a divot in the center of the broken bolt, then progressive sizes of cobalt bits starting (carefully) with a 1/16" and only going deep enough to start a pilot hole (go too far and you might breakoff the bit). When you get to a bit size within ~3/32 of the bolt size, the bolt will start to turn and you can back out the remaining pieces. Be patient, don't put any side pressure on the cobalt bits (they too can be brittle). Invest in a good set of cobalt bits and buy extras in sizes 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, and 7/64.
Yes, I do. We can drill it until it is almost done then get it out. I'm a pro now, having done it to 100's at this point.
I'd recommend any drilling you do be done with left handed bits.
Apparently, we can get it from the backside, so we can drill it with standard bits.
Here's the culprit.
Propane torch, kroil, stud install/removing socket. No need to drill that
I don't know if there is enough to grab that bit of bolt. I agree on the Kroil and heat.
Weld a nut to the stud and that will loosen up the threads and it will back right out.
Finally have the head off my 78 FJ40. Any recommendations for a machine shop that has done Cruiser work before. Head is located north of Baltimore, but I work in Bethesda so neared DC is doable.
I also have to decide what to do. Just resurface it? Have the valve seats reground? If I do that, might as well change the valves and springs as well?
It's a drive but #OTRAMM uses a guy in Winchester. Can't remember his details but Ryan may chime in.