Have we spoken about this, Wilson.
If something is wrong with you --- e.g. you have a really bad memory -- I don't see how that's my problem.
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If something is wrong with you --- e.g. you have a really bad memory -- I don't see how that's my problem.
Oh yeah. We discussed.
brian
SILVER Star
"Gaylord"....hehehe
Got some 80 driveline parts I'd like to sell.
Rear axle w/ locker from my '95. $600
'93 transfer case. CDL actuator did not work, never looked into it. Worked fine otherwise. $200
'95 transmission, worked when the truck was parted. $150
Parts off of a '95 1FZ.
Front and rear driveshaft from my '93 (same as '95).$100 each Cass007 has claimed them
(4) 365/75R16 BFG KM2 tires on 80 wheels. These were on my '95. I would only consider using them for off road use, Two are 1/3 tread, the other two are 1/4 tread. $600
Radius arms, control arms, lateral links, ect. are available.
Rear axle w/ locker from my '95. $600
'93 transfer case. CDL actuator did not work, never looked into it. Worked fine otherwise. $200
'95 transmission, worked when the truck was parted. $150
Parts off of a '95 1FZ.
Front and rear driveshaft from my '93 (same as '95).
(4) 365/75R16 BFG KM2 tires on 80 wheels. These were on my '95. I would only consider using them for off road use, Two are 1/3 tread, the other two are 1/4 tread. $600
Radius arms, control arms, lateral links, ect. are available.
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You happen to have a rear actuator motor?
Not separately, it is going with the axle.
The front axle is going to be broken down. The 3rd and the housing are spoken for. So with that in mind, who needs trail spares?
Right axle shaft w/ birf - $75
Left axle shaft w/birf - $75
Right knuckle, spindle, and hub - $75
Left knuckle, spindle, and hub - $75
Radius arm - $75 each
ABS sensors - $20 each
And I am always open to offers.
Right axle shaft w/ birf - $75
Left axle shaft w/birf - $75
Right knuckle, spindle, and hub - $75
Left knuckle, spindle, and hub - $75
Radius arm - $75 each
ABS sensors - $20 each
And I am always open to offers.
@JeepinPete - sending you a text about the driveshafts
*Wanted*
just picked up a 1969 fj40
Looking to add a roll bar and looking for a passenger side rear door peg that’s broken off. I am in the West Chester area. Thanks!
just picked up a 1969 fj40
Looking to add a roll bar and looking for a passenger side rear door peg that’s broken off. I am in the West Chester area. Thanks!
Came across this 2000 T4R LTD parked near Exton Square Mall. Undercarriage looked a lot better than I expected it too. No idea if this is a good price or not.
More frame shots
Ooof these are going up in price!
That year and trim package should have the rear locker too....
I'd check the inside frame rails where the lower link mounts connect to the frame, 8 times out of 10 it's probably starting to rust, they sell frame caps now to fix it though!! I see rust on the rear rockers, that's common too but easily fixed if you can do welding. Rear diff is wet, housing could be rusting through too, or the diff just needs a reseal.
Check under the radiator cap for signs of residual from Pink milkshake, those radiators love to fail internally and if that's the case the transmission could be on borrowed time.
Also look out for the rear heater core lines that run along under the passenger seat under the body for the rear heat. they like to rust as well.
Look for signs on the rack for possible leak but if it's been stock all its life usually they don't have issues.
Other than that just look out for normal maintenance stuff. See if it has a timing belt sticker on it to see when it was last due or last done. Valve covers like to leak on them as well as the half moons and the rear cam plugs. but again not a hard job to do I even consider it almost normal maintenance after every 60,000 miles or so because they just don't seem to want to last much longer than that
I'd offer no more than 2k with that mileage, but like I said the market is really coming up on them and I'm just a cheapskate to be honest.
Good starter vehicle and mild off-road for a kid or someone wanting to get into the hobby.
If you do end up purchasing it at a decent price,
Regardless of what you plan tondo to it, replace the front lower ball joints with factory joint and new factory bolts and torque to spec! This is not a suggestion this is a statement, most people look them over and at that mileage I'm sure they could use it.
Personally I would just go ahead and do the timing belt and water pump. I would also do all the drive belts, the spark plugs, the spark plug wires, and the valve cover gaskets. I would also do a drain and fill on all fluids including the transmission and the coolant (which is supposed to be done every 60k for the red but my memory is foggy on that right now and it's probably been changed to green anyway and starting to eat the rear heat core lines out...)
I think that about covers it... If you plan to wheel it add an aux trans cooler and by pass the factory one to avoid pink milkshake.
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I will add blue lock tight to the lower bj bolts. They like to fall out.
WANTED .... 95-97 80 Series Transfer case
'93 on up will work. Swapped my '95 into my '93, no modifications required.
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