Link time finally
- Thread starter peesalot
- Start date
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- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 633
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- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Looks really tall.
- Thread starter
- #23
Meh, it sits at same ride height as it did with leafs. I have the preload cranked down a bit to see how much it lifted so I would know what preload for street & what preload for trail load out, it isnt the same, if it is you are over sprung. I could have lowered the rear 2 " BUT that would mean lowering the front and my steering & a few other minor things meant no go so it stayed at the same ride it was before the change. Yeah, kinda tall but most SOA 40's not riding on flat springs or on the bumps usually is a bit tall.
I like
- Thread starter
- #26
Packaging at 55inch wms width is not ideal, I appreciate the likes & comments, it's flat out alot of work when you have no lift and do it on jack stands in the front yard, no easy up, no heater, when you see the welds you realize it must have been an uncomfortable mess.
But it'll work well and you did it. That's how my 3 link is. But it works. Nice job!
- Thread starter
- #28
Boy did I do it, we'll see if it works. Modifying some aftermarket wheel well trim for the rear today. Found some metal TJ ones for 168 bucks that have the correct angles ( not rounded ) just have to be stretched a bit.
- Thread starter
- #30
OK boys, I need help.
It appears I have to high an anti-squat # as the rear jacks a bit under load. Meaning if you block front tires and give it gas does the rear squat or rise, mine rises.
My question is, do I lower or raise the uppers frame side to correct this issue ? My uppers are currently darn close to flat/level, i can go up or down with the frame side upper mounts.
It appears I have to high an anti-squat # as the rear jacks a bit under load. Meaning if you block front tires and give it gas does the rear squat or rise, mine rises.
My question is, do I lower or raise the uppers frame side to correct this issue ? My uppers are currently darn close to flat/level, i can go up or down with the frame side upper mounts.
I would have to see your calculator but I believe that it would need to come down if your anti-squat is too high.
go up
Not according to my link calculator. Going up at the frame with the upper link increases the antisquat.
- Thread starter
- #35
Mike, my issue is lowers, they are at 7* and lowering the upper brings the instersect closer to rear axle and down which puts my blue line even further above the 100% anti squat line. Jeff is correct geometrically, if I raise the uppers it puts the intersect further forward & up a bit but overall the blue line is closer to 100% anti squat line in that config, just figured this today using string and tape to hold while I stood back and viewed, much clearer now, its never gonna have 0 anti squat as is, its gonna jack the back to some degree unless I move mounts for lowers, lesson learned, do the string thing to see what anti squat looks like while its all tacked. I think my best solution is to move uppers up, get 12" upper spring ( same lb's)so I can lower ride hiegth 2" which would leave me 4" uptravel, 2" off bumps at ride and would bring the anti squat much closer or to 0.
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You are right. I was changing the length not the height of the upper link. Sorry about that. It looks like you and Jeff are correct. The anti squat goes down when I raise the upper frame mount.
longer arms. or change the attachment points to put the imaginary point where the two arms would connect further forward. In drag racing, you'll see the upper links have a bunch of holes in them - that is to change the instant center, some tracks can handle lots of power off the hit (the moment they take off), other tracks, you want to delay how hard it hits until the car gains some momentum. With that said, in my '40 with a 5" longer wheelbase, my instant center is right at the flywheel and aims to the center of the motor, it does have a touch of separation but that's what I wanted because I want that harder hit when I'm powering out. .... and the other point here, put it to match the power you have, your driving style, and what kind of wheeling you do.... it's not the same for everyone
I think you ment to say the upper link (Mounts). not the links themselves. in piszeys case his upper frame mounts have 3 positions to chose from .
Why ? why does there have to be more options ? Get a TK1 and be done with it