Link time finally
- Thread starter peesalot
- Start date
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double. on mine. i had a Antirock for my FJc. the TK1 is better
- Thread starter
- #43
Its down to arm size, to clear the tire & frame its has to be thin as possible as the 40" bar is good, frame is 36" outside to outside but the arms will have to run directly under tub wall and right against frame.
- Thread starter
- #44
Could you measure the width of the TK1 arm at the splines & when assembled does the inside edge of arm line up with where the splines end ? trying to determine where the arms line up in relation to the splines, it looks to be about straight off. if they are pushed outboard at all it will rub tire at stuff.
Sorry I can’t bend very well
To get any better pics
To get any better pics
Pick up your telephone and use it for more than taking selfies and talk to them
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I’m sure I’ve seen the bent arms on the site before but can’t find them for the life of me now. I had a pretty tough setup because of the way I built my coilover mounts so I fabbed my own bent arm. Had to buy a third arm and cut it in half. Happy to share more if you want.
They are very helpful on the phone, the only thing I can criticize is that both ends of the links are right hand threads, there’s no loosening a jam nut and turning the link which I thought was pretty poor. So you might ask about that.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I beleive the spines are deeper than the arm is wide, so there is no standoff. The little colored cap on the end is up against the end of the shaft as well as against the arm. @DangerNoodle has had some trouble with loosing those caps, bolts coming loose or breaking and installed a better bolt in the end. I drove over a thousand miles before I even loctited anything at all with no problems.
I ended up having a slight offset issue with my bushings that I just fixed with new ones I made. Seemed to make all the difference.