Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

[Wheelingnoob]

You'll be fine without a fuel heater in your climate or really any climate if you use anti-gel.

Sounds good, I kind of thought I would. It's never cold enough here to worry about. Sometimes we do winter camping where it can get down to the mid -20c range. But with a young child I think thoes days are behind us for a few years.

Eliminating it will remove a failer prone area on this engine.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Well today the weather was nice so I decided to roll the engine out and start cleaning it up. Started with two cans of engine DE greaser and let it sit for 20min or so. Seemed to get 90% of the grease grime off. There was not a lot to start with mainly concentrated around the front crank seal/lower timing cover. Once the engine degreaser was scrubbed and washed off I washed down again with simple green. And scrubbed some areas again. Before I paint anything I need to take some more time cleaning it up.

I removed the fan hub as the bearing is notchy. I pressed the hub out but still need to press it out of the braket and get a new bearing.

I needed a new water pump gasket so ran down to the parts store..... 5min later and $2 I was on my way lol. Might take me a while to get use to that.

Anyways once I got the water pump bolted back on with new seal I blocked off the lower water port and filled the engine with water.

From there I wired up my battery and fuel lines. A little pumping on the primer pump and I had a running engine. Wanted to make sure I had no big leaks since I only saw a video of it running. Everything is good, I have two small fuel leaks one on the filter housing and one on the feed pump. Feed pump leak was fixed with a wrench and the filter housing leak is going to need some new crush washers.

Besides that it's a beast. Man this engine has a lot of torque. The ground and walls latterly shook lol. It fires up right away and idles clean. It's still got some air. In the system that shows as a miss at higher RPM but I'm not going to worry about now. The turbo after a little run even freed up. I'm still going to replace it, the compressor wheel is damaged. I have a PDR HX35W waiting to go on.

I spoke with some friends. At PDR about my truck and engine they all agree keep it stock. So I am going to do just that for now and see how it is. He said if anything put a bit more boost into it with out adding fuel. Likely a waste gate actuator, I'll probably get a kunagawa one again as the last one was good quality and I have 3 different springs for it.

Yesterday I got the Isuzu all back together and ready for the truck to be towed from my shop home to my garage. Then I will have room at my shop to replace seals on the engine.

Few things I have not decided on are engine colour? I like the colour it is now just not sure if I can get the Dodge cummins paint from the Cummins dealer.

I am trying to decide if I should rebuild the NV4500 myself or pay $450 in labour to be rebuilt. It would save me a lot of time and some tool cost if I just pay someone to do it.

Anyways that's all for now.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Well today the weather was nice so I decided to roll the engine out and start cleaning it up. Started with two cans of engine DE greaser and let it sit for 20min or so. Seemed to get 90% of the grease grime off. There was not a lot to start with mainly concentrated around the front crank seal/lower timing cover. Once the engine degreaser was scrubbed and washed off I washed down again with simple green. And scrubbed some areas again. Before I paint anything I need to take some more time cleaning it up.

I removed the fan hub as the bearing is notchy. I pressed the hub out but still need to press it out of the braket and get a new bearing.

I needed a new water pump gasket so ran down to the parts store..... 5min later and $2 I was on my way lol. Might take me a while to get use to that.

Anyways once I got the water pump bolted back on with new seal I blocked off the lower water port and filled the engine with water.

From there I wired up my battery and fuel lines. A little pumping on the primer pump and I had a running engine. Wanted to make sure I had no big leaks since I only saw a video of it running. Everything is good, I have two small fuel leaks one on the filter housing and one on the feed pump. Feed pump leak was fixed with a wrench and the filter housing leak is going to need some new crush washers.

Besides that it's a beast. Man this engine has a lot of torque. The ground and walls latterly shook lol. It fires up right away and idles clean. It's still got some air. In the system that shows as a miss at higher RPM but I'm not going to worry about now. The turbo after a little run even freed up. I'm still going to replace it, the compressor wheel is damaged. I have a PDR HX35W waiting to go on.

I spoke with some friends. At PDR about my truck and engine they all agree keep it stock. So I am going to do just that for now and see how it is. He said if anything put a bit more boost into it with out adding fuel. Likely a waste gate actuator, I'll probably get a kunagawa one again as the last one was good quality and I have 3 different springs for it.

Yesterday I got the Isuzu all back together and ready for the truck to be towed from my shop home to my garage. Then I will have room at my shop to replace seals on the engine.

Few things I have not decided on are engine colour? I like the colour it is now just not sure if I can get the Dodge cummins paint from the Cummins dealer.

I am trying to decide if I should rebuild the NV4500 myself or pay $450 in labour to be rebuilt. It would save me a lot of time and some tool cost if I just pay someone to do it.

Anyways that's all for now.

I vote you rebuild the trams yourself. It wasn't very hard to do, and it will add to the feeling of acompliment you have when it all complete.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

The only thing I'm concerned about doing it myself is torque the 5th gear nut. I have no idea how to hold the shaft from turning when I'm trying to get it to 350ft/lbs.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The only thing I'm concerned about doing it myself is torque the 5th gear nut. I have no idea how to hold the shaft from turning when I'm trying to get it to 350ft/lbs.

That's easy, just have an extra serving of Wheaties the morning you are going to torque it down and put a big pipe wrench on the shaft

Or you could just slide the shift rails into 1st and 3rd, that will lock the trans up, strap the trans to your bench and then you can torque that nut down.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Does your primer pump leak from the plunger? Mine leaks when I prime it and it seems to be a common issue. There is no rebuild kit for it but folks say the o ring is a common size at the parts store. It's on my list for next time I change the fuel filter.

 

[cjmoon]

I strapped mine to the work bench put the clutch disc on in gear and my dad could hold it while giving it a 3 ft cheater bars worth of torque

 

[Dougal]

Does your primer pump leak from the plunger? Mine leaks when I prime it and it seems to be a common issue. There is no rebuild kit for it but folks say the o ring is a common size at the parts store. It's on my list for next time I change the fuel filter.

There is a Bosch replacement pump with a plastic top that doesn't need to screw down. I put one in my zexel inline A pump about 5 years back. Excellent upgrade that pumps better than the originals ever did.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

There is a Bosch replacement pump with a plastic top that doesn't need to screw down. I put one in my zexel inline A pump about 5 years back. Excellent upgrade that pumps better than the originals ever did.

Mine does not leak from the plunger, it was leaking from the joint between the lift pump and pressure pipe to inj pump.

Dougal the lift pump in this engine is completely different than the Isuzu. The Bosch thread in one you used and I used on the Isuzu will not work on this engine.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I strapped mine to the work bench put the clutch disc on in gear and my dad could hold it while giving it a 3 ft cheater bars worth of torque

Thanks I'll sort somthing out of I do it myself. At this stage in my life I can see the value in paying someone to do it as well. Knowing it's done by a pro and I got to spend a day with my wife and kid over the shop seems worth it at this point.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So I have been tossing and turning about clutches. I would really like to upgrade to a 13" clutch that came in the 00-05 nv5600 Cummins. Mainly becouse I can get it with a clutch disk that will take a 1.25" input. They handle substantially more power than the stock clutch kit for the 12.25".

So there is two ways to do this upgrade get a kit that is flywheel (drilled for the 13" pp and updated pilot bearing).

VALAIR NV4500 13" x 1.25" Stock Organic Replacement Clutch OEM Style Hub 94-02 12V/24V 5.9L Dodge Cummins 400HP

Or just get a 13" clutch kit and have my flywheel machined for the pilot upgrade and 13" flywheel.

VALAIR NV5600 13.00" x 1.375" Stock Organic Replacement Clutch 00-05 5.9L Dodge Cummins 400HP

Common sense is telling me to get the kit with flywheel as machining my flywheel may end up costing just as much as a new one. But my pocket book is telling me to save $$ where I can.

I do not see myself turning engine up really at all let alone to 400hp and 900ft/lbs. So no need for anything other than on OEM clutch.

For comparison this is a comparable clutch that will bolt I to my existing flywheel. If I stayed with the 12.25" clutch I would still machine the flywheel for the sealed pilot bearing.

VALAIR NV4500 12.25" x 1.25" Stock Organic Replacement Clutch OEM Style Hub 94-98 5.9L 12V Dodge Cummins 300HP

By far the cheapest option and maybe the best if I do not plan on turning it up much?

I do have a low millage Luk clutch here that I can use. Issue is its used and do I really want to skimp on somthing that will be a royal pita to change ones it's all installed? Also Luk seems to have a reputations for failing on the 6bt's.

 

[ZA80]

You might just turn the power up later so might as well do the 13" clutch and flywheel now and it's done and dusted.

Save in paint and powder coating etc. as you said a PITA to sort out again.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I've got a 13" flywheel/clutch setup with my 4BT from Southbend. I've been very happy with it.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have a 13 inch clutch flywheel and 1.375 input shaft from southbend...but I have my motor turned up quite a bit and the extra girth and power handing was warranted.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I have a 13 inch clutch flywheel and 1.375 input shaft from southbend...but I have my motor turned up quite a bit and the extra girth and power handing was warranted.

Any update on your swap?

I am going to try and go with the 13" clutch but maintain the stock 1.25" input. No need in my case for the bigger one. No towing and not planing on cranking up the motor much.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Anyone have advice on engine gaskets and seals? I just got back from my local Cummins dealer and a significantly lighter wallet. I got a rear Main seal, front crank seal, timing cover gasket, Thermostat and seals...... All to the tune of $400.

I'm tempted to return all the seals and gaskets and just keep the Thermostat. I can't believe how much that small list cost.

I got bit with using felpro gaskets on my Isuzu and am worried going with them for this engine will result in the second heartache. Anyone have any advice?

Maybe keep the rear main as well since it's by far the hardest to get too after its in and running?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Anyone have advice on engine gaskets and seals? I just got back from my local Cummins dealer and a significantly lighter wallet. I got a rear Main seal, front crank seal, timing cover gasket, Thermostat and seals...... All to the tune of $400.

I'm tempted to return all the seals and gaskets and just keep the Thermostat. I can't believe how much that small list cost.

I got bit with using felpro gaskets on my Isuzu and am worried going with them for this engine will result in the second heartache. Anyone have any advice?

Maybe keep the rear main as well since it's by far the hardest to get too after its in and running?

I would get a vacuum pump seal kit as well. It was cheap from Cummins but some will buy a oversized O ring off eBay that suppose to last longer. It was an easy rebuild.
Did you decide if you are using Dustins thermostat housing yet? If so it a 3rd gen thermostat that is used not a 2nd gen. I'm still looking forward to seeing his updated design.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The only OEM gasket that was recommended by mumau diesel was the head gasket, all others on my rebuild are aftermarket.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I would get a vacuum pump seal kit as well. It was cheap from Cummins but some will buy a oversized O ring off eBay that suppose to last longer. It was an easy rebuild.
Did you decide if you are using Dustins thermostat housing yet? If so it a 3rd gen thermostat that is used not a 2nd gen. I'm still looking forward to seeing his updated design.

Arg OK so I'll take that back too then. What seals did they use when they re did yours?

I meant to get the vacume pump reseal kit too.....forgot.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

The only OEM gasket that was recommended by mumau diesel was the head gasket, all others on my rebuild are aftermarket.

OK thanks, I can get all the gaskets on rock auto for a fraction the price the Cummins stuff was.