Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Relocation complete.

No 2nd battery, but my compressor is no longer in my drawer, which frees up valuable cargo space!

 

[FMC80]

Yer engine bay is sure lookin purdy, Greg. Great work troubleshooting and working your way to a solution. These guys on this forum are freaking amazing.

 

[69 Pigboy]

Relocation complete.

View attachment 2926186

No 2nd battery, but my compressor is no longer in my drawer, which frees up valuable cargo space!View attachment 2926187

I purchased the Slee relocation kit with the intention of running a dual AGM setup up front. I've since decided to go with a Lithium in the back rather than a second AGM up front but I'll stick with the relocation like you and use the space for storing oil, the winch remote, shackles and some other odds and ends.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I purchased the Slee relocation kit with the intention of running a dual AGM setup up front. I've since decided to go with a Lithium in the back rather than a second AGM up front but I'll stick with the relocation like you and use the space for storing oil, the winch remote, shackles and some other odds and ends.

Now that I have it set up I am reluctant to ever put a battery in there, but I’m glad to have done the tray and washer relocation. The Slee bracket was ok, kind of a tight fit with my diagnostic port, but otherwise sturdy and complete.

 

[Dusten]

Solved.

I had a good look look at the terminals, they are clipped in properly and in really reasonably shape—nothing remotely like the horror of my NSS stuff. It looks like the male terminals just aren’t making contact thing them…sort of a hole in one/ swoosh kind of situation. Moving the terminal ever so slightly made contact and the injector fired right up. So I bent the injector pins towards the intake manifold about 1-2mm nothing to weaken them or damage them.

That’s all it took. I fired it up and the injector is happily clicking away. I wiggled the injector harness a bit trying to simulate rough roads etc, but I couldn’t get it to stop working. I then took the no.1 and no.2 connectors off and gave them more dielectric grease as I had cleaned them out for the photos and trouble shooting and retested the connection. I can’t press it to make it stop. I pulled the EFI fuse and cleared my codes so we will see if that was my issue. I’ll double check the timing again now that all the cylinders are firing.

Someone might object to the horror of bending my terminals, but this seems like a reasonable solution given that otherwise it’s re pinning the terminal and that requires a lot of tear down and $$$ in a few expensive gaskets.

I’m moving on, but your comments, pro and con are most welcome as always.

I bend terminals all the time at work.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Yer engine bay is sure lookin purdy, Greg. Great work troubleshooting and working your way to a solution. These guys on this forum are freaking amazing.

Such strong support from the forum these past months. Lots of huge advice, great troubleshooting and plenty of laughs to keep it light. I couldn’t do this half as well without ih8mud.

 

[JoeW]

Sometimes force flex technology is appropriate to get pins to work. I too bend or massage pins from time to time if a pin drag test is suspect. Glad it's running well again.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Solved.

I had a good look look at the terminals, they are clipped in properly and in really reasonably shape—nothing remotely like the horror of my NSS stuff. It looks like the male terminals just aren’t making contact thing them…sort of a hole in one/ swoosh kind of situation. Moving the terminal ever so slightly made contact and the injector fired right up. So I bent the injector pins towards the intake manifold about 1-2mm nothing to weaken them or damage them.

That’s all it took. I fired it up and the injector is happily clicking away. I wiggled the injector harness a bit trying to simulate rough roads etc, but I couldn’t get it to stop working. I then took the no.1 and no.2 connectors off and gave them more dielectric grease as I had cleaned them out for the photos and trouble shooting and retested the connection. I can’t press it to make it stop. I pulled the EFI fuse and cleared my codes so we will see if that was my issue. I’ll double check the timing again now that all the cylinders are firing.

Someone might object to the horror of bending my terminals, but this seems like a reasonable solution given that otherwise it’s re pinning the terminal and that requires a lot of tear down and $$$ in a few expensive gaskets.

I’m moving on, but your comments, pro and con are most welcome as always.

Great job on taking your time going through all of the details and solving this.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Sometimes force flex technology is appropriate to get pins to work. I too bend or massage pins from time to time if a pin drag test is suspect. Glad it's running well again.

Glad I’m not just a Viking bending and smashing my way to victory!

Great job on taking your time going through all of the details and solving this.

Thanks! I approached it as a chance to learn how to be methodical with these systems so I have a hope in hell of solving unexpected problems in a remote place with my family.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Does this count as a mod?

So ratty and gross. I couldn’t take it any more. I really don’t need a leather shifter….right? Because I don’t want to spend $$ on the interior other than seats or covers, and slow ass windows.

Specter off road may get an order for me, or possibly the ones from S.A., but I can’t remember their name. This just happened.

 

[fj40crusher]

Wow! Thats awesome man! it's blue but third row passengers don't really care! Yes I'd love to do that!

I have a set of 3rd row also and I live just north of Bellingham in Birch Bay. Brown leather, yours if you want to come get them.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I have a set of 3rd row also and I live just north of Bellingham in Birch Bay. Brown leather, yours if you want to come get them.

Thanks, so nice to offer. I have my seats sitting in storage up in my garage attic. @WillGentry sent me a set of 3rd row belts in 2018, before adding drawers. I'm sure there is a family oriented cruiser out there that would love those seats and would trade you plenty of beer for them if you want to participate in an alternative economy. But the sentiment is most appreciated, thanks!

 

[ppc]

Specter off road may get an order for me, or possibly the ones from S.A., but I can’t remember their name. This just happened.

I think your best option for leather replacement is through @FJ60Cam @ Mosley Motors

80 Series Leather Upholstery — MOSLEY MOTORS

High quality replacement leather for Factory Leather-equipped 94-97 80 Series Land Cruisers. Please contact us to order leather upholstery for a factory cloth-equipped truck. 91-94 trucks with factory cloth manual seats have a different pattern, and are priced the same. Please indicate this in t

www.mosleymotors.com

Replacement Leather Upholstery Kits

We are pleased to offer high quality replacement leather kits to the mud community. Sets are available for 60/62 series, all of the 80 Series iterations, LX450s, as well as both airbag/non-airbag 100 Series and LX470s. We can also provide kits for 4 Runners, Tacomas, Tundras, FJ Cruisers as...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

This was distilled water 24 hours ago. Captured this from my block drain:

All the distilled I captured from the rad looked the same too.
More of this:

I have enough distilled H2O for s couple more fills. It’s cheap, and I want to be sure I get it all flushed. I’m eager to get the red stuff in there…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Well I was just bringing my distilled up to temp and now front heat is very tepid….so more flushing in store.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

never mind, heat is functioning. Might have broken loose a little debris.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I’m on the fence about using a cooling system cleaning solution. I know some folks have run a diluted solutions of CLR in distilled H2O to get after the gunk. I’m uncertain if I want to put anything else in there but water. If my water still looks faintly brownish again, I may just mix up some Toyota red and just run it.

Suggestions welcome.

 

[baldilocks]

I’ve used this stuff and it cleared mine out quite well. Will use it next time I swap out coolant.
The rust was very bad in my cooling system. The fluid was brown like mud. Several flushes with pure water and also with Preston and Blue Devil flush couldn’t do the job.

THERMOCURE Cooling System Rust Remover & Flush | CRC

THERMOCURE cooling system rust remover and flush removes rust scale and deposits from radiators, water pumps, engine blocks, and more.

www.evapo-rust.com

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I’ve used this stuff and it cleared mine out quite well. Will use it next time I swap out coolant.
The rust was very bad in my cooling system. The fluid was brown like mud. Several flushes with pure water and also with Preston and Blue Devil flush couldn’t do the job.

THERMOCURE Cooling System Rust Remover & Flush | CRC

THERMOCURE cooling system rust remover and flush removes rust scale and deposits from radiators, water pumps, engine blocks, and more.

www.evapo-rust.com

My next question is after you flushed with Thermocure did you flush again? Could you get your water to run clear?

 

[Dusten]

I would run something like this

https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/4C-4611

As a dedicated cooling system cleaner rather than just trying to get it clean with water.
Fwiw you'll never get the water clean if you leave it sit