Yes.
The test appears to be just the drivers door, not any door.
late 80 upper rear hatch electrical questions (and leaving it open)?
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Yes.
The test appears to be just the drivers door, not any door.
- Thread starter
- #22
thanks. so my warning sound goes off with drivers door or rear hatch opening.
however my exterior lights don't go off when drivers door opens (when headlights are on at the stalk).
the first is normal but the second - the exterior light behavior - sounds not normal even though both seem to be tied to the same switch at drivers side door.
i'm starting to wonder if this is related to the fact that my upper rear taillight is out. i'm told this is probably due to left and or right rear taillight harness's needing replacement.
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- Thread starter
- #23
here are the tail light harnesses i am told i should get to get the upper rear taillight working (lamp was tested with 12V at the battery and it tests good).
81565-60241 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy,
Rear Combination Lamp, LH
81555-60321 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy,
Rear Combination Lamp, RH
81565-60241 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy,
Rear Combination Lamp, LH
81555-60321 - Socket & Wire Sub-Assy,
Rear Combination Lamp, RH
At a minimum, I would check all door switches to see if they turn on/off the door courtesy lights and dome lights.
Those two part numbers appear to be the final harness for each tail light. I think the 3rd brake light connects before them, but I could be wrong.
Besides the 3rd brake light, do both brake lights work? Do both parking light work? Do both reverse light work? If they all do, then it is unlikely their harnesses are the issue.
I would pull the left cargo trim, and the D pillar trim. I would inspect the harness for any damage.
Those two part numbers appear to be the final harness for each tail light. I think the 3rd brake light connects before them, but I could be wrong.
Besides the 3rd brake light, do both brake lights work? Do both parking light work? Do both reverse light work? If they all do, then it is unlikely their harnesses are the issue.
I would pull the left cargo trim, and the D pillar trim. I would inspect the harness for any damage.
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- #25
thanks so much. i jumped on this and at least for first run at it this is what i have:
0. i switched the front dome light (front doors) and rear dome light (rear doors) to the on when door open setting.
1. drivers door open > headlights on
-> headlights come on
2. depress drivers, passenger, right and left rear door and each respective dome light goes out but the headlights stay on. also rear taillights and sidelights front and rear stay on.
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i also noticed a rear taillight bulb flashing so i need to fix that.
- Thread starter
- #26
all taillights work in the sense they go on.
i need to check the reverse light i guess by backing up?
and the sidelights are the small rectangular things? if so they go on as well.
> left cargo trim and D pillar bookend that rear left window?
> does the upper rear hatch harness connect inside that pillar on the left side?
That is whack.
The LIGHT RETAINER RELAY, which does the auto light off, does take the driver door courtesy switch as an input. Page 91, of my 1996 LX450 FSM, gives service hints.
I mean, the LIGHT RETAINER RELAY should not see any power unless the Key is in the On position...
The above need to be checked.
If you have no one to help, back up to a wall and see if you can light reflection. They probably work if everything else works.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Yes, that is the harness for the upper hatch that comes up from the D pillar behind the last side window.
I started a thread a few weeks back with the exact same issues as you have on my 96. My high level brake light is either off or very dim. When i open the rear hatch I also get a buzzing for 4 or 5 seconds and if my headlight switch is in the on position (keys out and drivers door cycled) then opening the hatch will turn on my headlights.
I have been through the EWD and see no logical link between the hatch and the headlight auto off/on relay.
I removed my factory alarm so i don't see that being an issue.
With the hatch open my rear most dome light comes on with the force of a candle in a storm. The middle dome light never comes on but the door switches are good (registers a door open in the guage cluster). My hypothesis is that by opening the rear hatch i am somehow leaking voltage to the headlight auto on trigger. The ground for most of these circuits is under the center console but i have yet to check that.
@Irish Reiver and @landcruiser3DP
When my headliner was out, I noticed Toyota routed the 2nd row seat dome light wiring wedged into a metal bracket attached to moonroof tray. It was a very likely place to develop a short.
- Does this behavior persist if you pull the Dome Bulbs?
- Does this behavior persist if you pull the Dome Fuse?
When my headliner was out, I noticed Toyota routed the 2nd row seat dome light wiring wedged into a metal bracket attached to moonroof tray. It was a very likely place to develop a short.
- Thread starter
- #30
hey. thanks a ton for this.
the electrical troubleshooting i really need to dedicate head space to so i was hoping to get a head start in the manual. having someone find the right page helps of course.
i didn't quite follow what you were saying is whack. the part about headlights on at stalk > key out > drivers door open and headlight still on?
i believe this came on intermittently in the sense i walked out once or twice to headlights on and now it seems repeatable.
also at one point someone said they thought the switch at the door had to open then close so it could be a "lazy" switch which didn't see it opening - and you seem to say the switch opening turns off the headlights - but presumably i can see this in the circuit diagram you posted?
also naming things helps and you are saying this functionality is "light retainer relay" in page 91 of the regular manual (not the electrical)? or i guess you are still in the electrical manual?
anyway can i just ask you to help me locate things? light retainer relay is in the cabin on the left side of the steering column?
i mean if we are talking relay and - well we are saying it is probably not the switch since the dome lights go on and off with the switch - well should i replace the relay for a couple bucks? i've learned to try not to trust relays since even if the voltage tests ok - well i guess testing voltage would isolate a relay (?) but anyway its not a costly part to throw at this problem in the meantime?
- Thread starter
- #31
well nice to have company. thanks for this.
just to be clear on my part - i checked the owners manual i think and when front doors open you see front courtesy lights and "front" dome light (meaning the one just behind the front seats). when rear doors open the rear door courtesy lights come on and rear dome light. not sure i checked this but when rear hatch opens rear dome light comes on.
you are saying that with headlights on at the stalk (of course we can turn them off manually), the drivers side door opens, and headlights go out (or it closes and they go out).
but if you open the rear hatch the headlights and taillights and side lights go on (in addition to rear dome light)?
- Thread starter
- #32
i'm doing this "in real time" so forgive me. also. not totally clear on how (?) turning ignition to on position and then removing keys affects this circuit? or if you have to do this with the drivers door closed.
turning to on seems necessary to me. that said i am not totally sure if i am getting repeatable behaviors because i find it confusing. also what you expect and what we get makes it more confusing.
in all cases the switch for dome lights is set to OFF.
front dome bulb in:
1. key to in position. headlights at stalk on. key out of ignition. ah ****. i can't remember but my lights don't seem to - well maybe they did turn off with my closing the door this time? anyway they were OFF. but if i open rear hatch i get the buzz and front lights come on.
front dome bulb out:
2A. headlights on > key to on position > key out of ignition > drivers door opens > headlights go OUT (not what has been happening as i described).
2B. headlines are out and key is out of ignition but headlights are on at the stalk with drivers door closed. open rear hatch and get buzz sound and front headlights go ON.
2C. closer rear hatch and headlights stay ON.
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follow up here but is it possible to accidentally ground out that switch with LED bulbs? i see mine is sort of angled awkwardly.
- Thread starter
- #33
admittedly i don't know what i am doing with this one but i pulled the rear dome light for good measure.
close upper rear hatch and headlights are still on.
A. turn off headlights. key to on position > headlights on > key out > door open > headlights go off (normal behavior).
B. open rear hatch > buzzing sound (normal AFAIK) > headlights go on (not normal).
close upper rear hatch and headlights are still on.
A. turn off headlights. key to on position > headlights on > key out > door open > headlights go off (normal behavior).
B. open rear hatch > buzzing sound (normal AFAIK) > headlights go on (not normal).
You want to set the conditions that triggers the issue. Which I assume is Headlights On, Key cycled from On to Off, Key can be then removed, Open and Close the driver's door.
The next step is open the rear hatch, which mysteriously turns on the front headlights to go on...but before doing so, do the following first:
- Pull the Rear Dome Bulb and then open the rear hatch. Does the front headlights now go on?
Put the bulb back.
Then Try this:
- Pull the Dome Fuse and then open the rear hatch. Does the front headlights now go on?
I should have been more specific. It is the rear dome light that matters, so I asked for you to pull both, not just the front.
Do you have the original incandescent bulbs and see if the issue persists? LED bulbs can cause funny issues....
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- #35
ok. so this is tricky and i appreciate the help. also apologies for not being extremely - well explaining as best i can.
1. LED bulb is in all four door courtesy lights, and the front dome light. incandescent is in the rear dome light since the LED back there was too bright for camping.
2. i pulled the front dome light which was LED. this immediately caused the headlights to go off then the front door was opened. actually it is obvious to me how this is supposed to behave now. you just pull the keys, and open the drivers door and they go off.
3. however when i then - well w really i think i just opened the rear hatch and they went back on again. or - well i mean this is tricky because id the headlight off function is ow working they are going OFF when i open the drivers door.
4. in any even i pulled the rear dome light just because i am not reading the electrical diagrams and rhe rear hatch still triggers the front headlights. that said the headlight off from drivers side works fine now.
5. i just tested which before reading this and so i think this is your first condition. front and rear dome lights are pulled. headlight on
open rear had hatch and front taillights AND rear taillights come on (which has happened before).
I am having difficulty parsing what you are writing.
- Pulling the rear dome bulb did or did not stop the behavior?
- Pulling the dome fuse did or did not stop the behavior?
- Replacing the one LED bulb with an original incandescent bullb did or did not stop the behavior?
Answer yes or no to each question.
Where are you located? I saw Woburn Toyota as a place you might order from. If you are in Mass, it might be easier if I come by.
I decided to install a simple switch to disable the door courtesy lights when the rear hatch is open. Whether you're tailgating or camping, it is nice to have the ability to turn off the door lights. Some have resorted to removing fuses or bulbs, while some have shoved carabiners into the locking mechanism to disable the lights.
Here's a simple, one banana
solution!
First step is to go out and purchase a simple switch that appeals to you. You can use any style that suits your taste, whether it's a rocker, push-button, or toggle switch. I went with a simple SPST on/off...
Here's a simple, one banana
solution!First step is to go out and purchase a simple switch that appeals to you. You can use any style that suits your taste, whether it's a rocker, push-button, or toggle switch. I went with a simple SPST on/off...
- Thread starter
- #38
sorry. thanks for repeating the tests.
i haven't gotten back to it but plan to shortly because i'd like to solve this.
what happened is i pulled the front dome light which was an LED and it solved the headlights not going off immediately. yesterday afternoon i just sat in the truck and tried it a couple times facing a glass storefront. very satisfying!
but upper hatch was still causing the headlights to go on.
yesterday i just went ahead and pulled the rear dome light. then i tried the upper hatch. this time the front AND rear lights went on.
i don't know that this had anything to do with pulling either dome lights though since in the past i have gotten headlights to go on but also sometimes the rear taillights went on too (about five or six times). sometimes nothing goes on.
i will report back more deliberately per your instructions. thanks.
hometown is boston so i get back periodically with or without the cruiser. but in texas currently.
LED lights can cause issues and it sounds that the front LED dome light is stopping the automatic headlight off from working. I would replace with a normal bulb.
One example is the low fuel light light in the dash should not be replaced with a LED as it will always be dimly lit.
Appreciate it.
I am trying to determine if the front or rear dome light circuit, and which part of the circuit (before or after the bulb) is the cause of the issue. They may not be.
- Thread starter
- #40
do you mind if i ask you for some explanations on how i should start tracking things here? i realized this is time on your end so its not a big deal if it doesn't happen i just try to learn a little bit.
for instance greening think is some kind of open closed switch (or closed open i guess) at the tailgate? anyway is it possible for you to help me start seeing how this circuit (if that's the right word) is functioning? i see the bulbs obviously. and i think there are some diodes in here for some reason i dont totally understand.
but also i always have an issue understanding - well i guess when a switch is normally open a circuit is not energized? so when the hatch closes it gets energized? and my clue here is that the hatch in green here shows open so i should know that closing the hatch closes the circuit?
then everything "upstream" in the sense it is on the same line (or on a line that intersects in a dot) - well it gets energized - well when sort of implicitly it would not be energized otherwise? or i guess a line in a circuit can be energized even if it interstate at with this "normally open" hatch circuit?
sorry it's always a kind of practical learning exercise over here when i work on the 80....