late 80 upper rear hatch electrical questions (and leaving it open)?

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Do you own a voltmeter?

You need to check if the fuse is blown before replacing it.

Using a voltmeter, you need to test power and ground on all the relevant circuits at each connector.

If you are testing circuits that require the brake pedal to be pressed, make sure it is pressed before testing.

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Do you own a voltmeter?

You need to check if the fuse is blown before replacing it.

Using a voltmeter, you need to test power and ground on all the relevant circuits at each connector.

If you are testing circuits that require the brake pedal to be pressed, make sure it is pressed before testing.

View attachment 4012055
thanks. trying to get out of town.
from the electrical diagram if any of the interior lights work - door courtesy lights or visor lights or dome lights or drivers map light - it's not the 10A dome fuse since that fuse is for all the interior lights is that right?
so if that is good i am testing with a MM to see if i am getting 12V to each bulb socket by testing across the socket with the stitch set to on (or the door open) etc?

IMG_6905.webp
 
Do you own a voltmeter?

You need to check if the fuse is blown before replacing it.

Using a voltmeter, you need to test power and ground on all the relevant circuits at each connector.

If you are testing circuits that require the brake pedal to be pressed, make sure it is pressed before testing.

View attachment 4012055
OK. i replaced the Dome fuse because everything was out inside and it looked like it controlled everything basically.
all the interior dome lights are on.

headlights still turn off but - christ the rear upper hatch is now turning the headlights on again.

so now i have to try to solve again why the upper rear tailgate is turning on the headlights and taillights.

IMG_7151.webp
 
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