Knuckle Rebuild Help

[FJCrewsin]

Hey Everyone,

New to the forum and to a 1976 '40. It's going to be my son's first car.

I'm in the process of doing a knuckle rebuild, because, why not.

I can't get the Arm or the bottom plate off. I have gotten all 8 cone washers out. And have some separation from the housing. See pics.

Any tips for taking it apart would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Adam

 

[sadam_husain]

sometimes the pins seize into the bearings a bit of persuasion will release it

 

[FJCrewsin]

I'be been attempting to persuade it off for a couple of days now...apparently I need to up my game.

 

[TheHardWay]

I'll be doing mine in two weeks. Oh, this looks like fun....

 

[reddingcruiser]

Focus on the arm. You will be able to get the knuckle off once the arm is removed and you can drive the lower one out with a brass drift pin through the knuckle.

 

[OutbackBob]

Check out the youtube video:

Uploaded on Sep 8, 2011
How I remove and replace the Toyota 4x4 inner axle seals on the 1979 - 1985 (U.S.) Toyota 4x4 solid front axles.
Go to:

Check out the Marlin Crawler seal @: https://www.marlincrawler.com/

End user here! Enjoy, Bob

 

[reddingcruiser]

Also, try to avoid the temptation to start using a pry bar if you can. I have a set of old tapered aluminum caster shims that I split so I have four shims. I put one set on the front side and one on the back side. I set them so the thin ends of each set overlap in the gap between the arm and knuckle. Then start driving them together in an alternating pattern. You need to 'back up' the inside shim with another hammer so it doesn't get spit out.

 

[reddingcruiser]

I own one of the pry bars shown in the video, but in a pinch the right size channel lock pliers will also work.

 

[FJCrewsin]

A little success...still have some parts to separate, but progress. I used a couple of chisels as shims on each side and was able to inch the arm up and off. The housing then came off. Still need to get the lower part off, remove the top race and get the axle seal out.

Why can't we have Fall temps with 14 hours of sunlight in the South? It's like 90 degrees and 70% humidity.

 

[Stumpalama]

Yes, the bearing inner race is just stuck on the pin on the steering arm.
You can use a cold chisel or two and alternate tapping it along the back and front of the knuckle and steering arm seating surfaces, then use a pry bar, it's not that bad, and if done properly, will not mar the surfaces.
Also, take note of the shim thickness and orientation when you remove them. I zip tie them together and to the brake boss of the appropriate knuckle.
They may take some persuading, but they will come off.
Are you replacing the knuckle bearings as well?

 

[73FJ40]

You may already know this, but make CERTAIN you keep track of where the shims were located during the tear down. Get some ziploc bags, one for each of the four sets of shims, and mark them driver upper/lower, passenger upper/lower.

 

[FJCrewsin]

I literally know about nothing with all this, but I did happen to keep the shims in order...just in case.

Thanks for all the tips everyone.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

FWIW, I found that a set of brass drift punches and a set of race/bearing drivers made the job much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-61360-Brass-Drift-Punch/dp/B000XSEC9Y?tag=ihco-20
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
With the drift punches, you can beat away to remove your races without fear of damaging anything. Mine came out easily.
Same with the drivers...these provide even pressure all around which helps a lot. And you definitely can feel when the race or seal is set properly.
Can it be done without them, sure, but there's nothing like the right tool for the job.

 

[FJCrewsin]

I've got a friend who has drifts. And I need to go to Harbor Freight to get a welder anyway.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Another tool that is handy for this job...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG?tag=ihco-20
HF sells one too but I know that this Lisle one works well and is well made.

 

[Bluegrass40]

I just did this job on my '78.
-Purchased a lisle seal puller
- borrowed a seal/bearing cup driver set from pep boys
- borrowed a knuckle alignment tool from another mud member and found that my shims were pretty far off of correct. The driver and pass side had the same shims. Figured that it was unlikely to be correct. Really glad that I used the sst.
- I used the marlin rebuild kit. Was happy with the kit. Good price and great quality.

Almost done with the rebuild. Just need to find the time

Be sure to follow the fsm or a good thread like coolermans.

Enjoy!

 

[FletchFFletch]

Check out the youtube video:

Uploaded on Sep 8, 2011
How I remove and replace the Toyota 4x4 inner axle seals on the 1979 - 1985 (U.S.) Toyota 4x4 solid front axles.
Go to:

Check out the Marlin Crawler seal @: https://www.marlincrawler.com/

End user here! Enjoy, Bob

Excellent -- thank you. Video says 79-85. What is, if any, differences for pre-79?

 

[Bluegrass40]

Video says 79-85. What is, if any, differences for pre-79?

What the video showed was no different than what I did on my '78.
I will say that my seals were much harder to get out and in than what the video showed.

 

[FJCrewsin]

I have the races and bearings out and will pull the inner seal today. Then it's clean up and rebuild time.

I have a kit from Yukon Gear and Axle.

 

[B y r o n]

you can also use a puller to push it out.