Huh? What problem? In essence full time 4WD is like the hubs locked in all the time. Does not effect adding gear oil or not.
I use gear oil plus moly grease plus synthetic grease in my LC hubs
knuckle;is all that moly grease really needed?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chapel gate
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I use gear oil plus moly grease plus synthetic grease in my LC hubs
Tell me more--as in some data that supports why gear lube would be added along with moly grease which is in contradistinction to OEM manual procedures.
This method is new to me, so I'm looking to get edu-macated. Again, I've heard of Rover OEM calling for only gear lube in the knuckles with a very similar design (birfield in knuckle housing).
My understanding has always been that the inner oil seal in the knuckle was to prevent the intermixing of gear lube and the moly bath that the OEM design calls for....
What kind of data? To me it's just common sense. You don't want stiff grease flung away from the birf in extreme cold. This appears to be SOP set-up for one of the major JDM importers when sending LCs to northern Canada. I don't see it as a "contradistinction to OEM manual procedures". The manual says to use moly grease, it doesn't say NOT to ALSO use a bit of gear lube to keep the grease fluid in extreme cold.Tell me more--as in some data that supports why gear lube would be added along with moly grease which is in contradistinction to OEM manual procedures.
That's a silly way to justify something. The manual doesn't say NOT to ALSO put gear lube into the gas tank, but common sense dictates otherwise. In this case, we aren't sure your common sense holds up regarding gear oil in with grease
Every time I've serviced my knuckles, I have always found a wee bit of gear oil that has leaked past the seals anyway. I can't see that is causes any harm, and I guess adding a couple ounces intentionally wouldn't either.
No reason call names.
Chill out.
No reason call names.
Chill out.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Except it thins the grease and makes it more likely to seep out past the knuckle seals. There just is no reason to do this, and it's bad advice.
jvazquez53
El Tractor
- Joined
- May 6, 2007
- Threads
- 352
- Messages
- 3,413
- Location
- San Juan Puerto Rico
- Website
- www.facebook.com
There's never enough grease
yeah B still using the the good ole john wayne paper for the filter, its seems to be weorking out pretty good. and am still an A & P but rebuild Caterpillar engines now.
i'll stay off this thread now, its getting deep in here.
i'll stay off this thread now, its getting deep in here.
Sorry to kick off this flame war folks, I am withdrawing as well.
Relax John. Its just the internet.
We spend a lot of effort trying to keep diff fluid from mixing with the moly grease and eventually leaking out of the knuckle seals at the back of the knuckle. Of course, we are not in extreme cold most of the year so that might be a factor.
Your initial suggestion was to add gear oil via the plug "especially in cold weather." This implies it can or should be added regardless of the weather and it implies that it must be added in cold weather.
Your subsequent posts seemed to tone that suggestion down a bit and to qualify your gear oil recommendation as being only for extreme cold. Is my interpretation of your posts correct?
Your mention of locked hubs confused most of us because all North American 80-Series and most throughout the world are full-time 4WD and do not have selectable hubs. This makes us wonder if you are talking about a specific vehicle for a specific market (like maybe Canadian mining trucks.)
-B-
Adding anything other than the OEM recommendation seems to be just speculating on the benefits and I would not recommend it. I see the theory - that in extreme cold a thinning element has some logic to it, but I don't think it should be recommended.
Unless there is a Toyota recommendation for extreme cold like there is for severe duty in the 80s Service Manual then it's not needed. Cruisers are designed for operation in harsh environments the world over including severe cold and severe heat. A properly full knuckle in extreme cold will simply spin happily in the thickened grease and if any heat builds up the grease will thin a bit. No biggie.
If I were in a severe cold environment, I'd definitely do more frequent changes and repacks however, to ensure the grease is not at the end of its service life ever.
DougM
Unless there is a Toyota recommendation for extreme cold like there is for severe duty in the 80s Service Manual then it's not needed. Cruisers are designed for operation in harsh environments the world over including severe cold and severe heat. A properly full knuckle in extreme cold will simply spin happily in the thickened grease and if any heat builds up the grease will thin a bit. No biggie.
If I were in a severe cold environment, I'd definitely do more frequent changes and repacks however, to ensure the grease is not at the end of its service life ever.
DougM
Niceness... I like it.
x2
Oil acts as solvent and prevents grease from sticking to the metal surface.
Grease prevents water from getting into the knuckles, oil does not.
How much grease? As much as you can... there is never enough.
Acknowledged and agreed.
Just pointing out the messy realities of leaky seals (in my 80, at least) and making a plea for civility.
There are myriad clever tricks for machinery that have been used over the years, however. Many of them work well. My son(8) and I just finished watching several "Bush Mechanic" DVDs featuring an Aussie who's name escapes me but his Troopy is named Milo. He's full of excellent stuff to handle unexpected stuff out in the boonies. Our favorite was he and another guy compete in a 7 day outback endurance type thing between them with the condition they have to buy a vehicle for $2000 or something and make it last out there. Funny stuff.
DougM
DougM
chapel gate
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #37
yeah, i can see the logic of having plenty of grease in there, its such a large cavity that if its not full of grease, water through condensation/seepage would take its place. the grease ports still a bit of a grey area for me though...
wouldnt it be cool if you could have a couple of pints down the pub with one of the 80's engineers and pick his brains as to why "this was designed like that" or "what was the brief on this?" etc...
wouldnt it be cool if you could have a couple of pints down the pub with one of the 80's engineers and pick his brains as to why "this was designed like that" or "what was the brief on this?" etc...
Chapel,
It is a great design, actually and superior to the nearest relative which is on the Range Rovers. They use gear oil. Trail use is when a seal will fail (housing flex, stick, etc) and when this happens on the RR, the gear oil drains out immediately and you're done. Right there on the trail you have to rebuild and reseal it. On the 80, you have literally months of warning that a service is needed as the grease begins oozing out. Even a major seal failure on the trail can be dealt with simply by pumping grease into the grease port. The birf is coated with thick grease and will function fine until you get home to repack/reseal it. To me this is a huge advantage.
To clear up any grease port mystery, if you fill this way it will indeed make its way quickly to the birf itself. Before a repack, I intentionally put a brightly colored grease in via the port. A short time later when I opened it up the grease was 100% uniform in color - not even a fleck of the color in a crevice here or there. I posted this a couple years ago. Hope that helps.
DougM
It is a great design, actually and superior to the nearest relative which is on the Range Rovers. They use gear oil. Trail use is when a seal will fail (housing flex, stick, etc) and when this happens on the RR, the gear oil drains out immediately and you're done. Right there on the trail you have to rebuild and reseal it. On the 80, you have literally months of warning that a service is needed as the grease begins oozing out. Even a major seal failure on the trail can be dealt with simply by pumping grease into the grease port. The birf is coated with thick grease and will function fine until you get home to repack/reseal it. To me this is a huge advantage.
To clear up any grease port mystery, if you fill this way it will indeed make its way quickly to the birf itself. Before a repack, I intentionally put a brightly colored grease in via the port. A short time later when I opened it up the grease was 100% uniform in color - not even a fleck of the color in a crevice here or there. I posted this a couple years ago. Hope that helps.
DougM
Do you guys ever worry about the moly grease getting into the trunion bearings? and what makes most moly grease so bad for the bearings?
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
My opinion is you should pack the trunion bearings with moly fortified grease and that's what I use. If I'm not mistaken, that's what the FSM calls for. They are slow moving and under high pressure; just what you want to use moly fortified grease on.
It's the wheel bearings that you don't want to use moly grease on as they are high speed and supposidly the moly will cause excessive (uneven??) wear.
