Knuckle Help

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Joined
Jun 28, 2025
Threads
9
Messages
172
Location
Texas
Hey guys, I'm working on a 1972 FJ55 and am in the middle of a knuckle rebuild. I've got it all apart, axle seal replaced, etc, but now the kingpins won't go back into the knuckle. What gives?

I'm afraid to wack too hard with a hammer. The studs seem maybe the slightest bit out of alignment, but maybe by only a little. The hole in the knuckle may be a little out of round? I'm out of ideas and help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Really hard to capture on camera, but the blue areas seem slightly deformed. I removed the studs and reinstalled them with red loc tite. Torqued to 45 lb-ft (as much as I felt comfortable with), maybe that was too much?
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How easy does the bearing caps fit without the bearings installed? How do the races fit in the hole?
 
Is bearing cap and what I'm calling the kingpin the same thing? If so, I haven't even tried to get it in the bearing. I'm just trying to get it started before it's on the truck.

The races fit just fine.
 
Didn’t swap the arms side to side? Are the bottom caps going in ok? Might have to tap it a bit but shouldn’t have to force them on.

Try a little lube?
 
Nope. Still working on the passenger side, haven't touched the driver. Bottom is what I'm trying first, I haven't tried the top cuz it's still stuck to the drag link 🙄
 
What's the torque spec to seat the studs? All I saw was 40-60, but I don't know if that's for the studs themselves or the nuts.
 
I think you’re on the right track. I wouldn’t go tighter I don’t think.
 
Kroil is worth the price IMHO for getting stuck things apart. A little heat and a drop or so for several days to let it work. Percussion therapy can help break bonds, protect the surface, use like a brass drift, lead hammers are my favorite, air hammers with a soft jaw/rod can work. Rattle gun with proper sockets - try tightening a little first. When it moves a little go back and forth and slowly work it out.

I'm sure the torque spec's are in the manual.

I can't tell if the studs have pulled and raised the area circled on the inside. Do spacers go on top? Perhaps some careful needle file work; or take out the studs and flat file the surface.


My eyes are sore from the fire smoke and the wind storm blowing up dust, ash and pollen.
 
To get the caps on I put the shims in then loosely shimmy the cap so threads of knuckle studs stick through. I then place all for nuts loosely and tighten in a cross pattern. If I hit unusual tightness it’s because the cap is not going up horizontal. I work the nuts as needed to address this and keep going. Works all the time. No tapping needed.
 
If your assembling on the axle and the studs do not align with the holes. You are not started in the in the inner race straight enough.
I alway check bearing id fits on the mating nose before assembly.
 
Last edited:
First, thanks @charliemeyer007 for the Cruiser Cult link. I forget about them. I have a Haynes manual (I know, I know), but I can't find it.

I think I may have used a little too much torque when seating the studs and bulged the knuckle. I'm going to try to carefully sand it down. Will report back.
 
If the surface around the studs is distorted remove them and use Kroil or other oil and stone the mating surface in a circular or figure pattern. Then check with a feeler gauge or do contact checks with the trunnions to see how flat the two mating surfaces are. You could also use lapping compound and lap the trunnions and knuckles together for the final finish.
 
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