Kill Switch to prevent theft???

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If you have to ask, I would hate to have you try and troubleshoot why your truck does not start in the event that you forget to throw the switch...


Isolate the power going to the coil, and the signal wire to the solenoid on the starter so that it will not even crank.



:rolleyes:


Good luck!


-Steve
 
togle switch hidden in the cab someplace(you pick the spot) one wire ground(in the cab), the other wire to the coil negitive(or is it positive) all yo uare doing is grounding out the coil. I like the ground out because you are not caring any power into the cab, but you can do it the other way around, 2 power wires running into cab, the switch cuts the power.
 
A guy I know by association put a toggle under the dash. Not sure exactly how it was wired in but I believe it was just hooked into the fuse block and the "Engine fuse".

Seemed to work fine, best when he got drunk and tried to drive!!!
 
I have kc's on the front and have a switch for them on the dash that doesnt look like a light switch. And its in with the mass of other 40 knobs. Then i have one that says KC on it down by the column. Its the coil wire kill switch. Funny as s*** to watch someone who doesnt know me try to start the truck.

"Dude, its flooded or something."

Click, Vrooom. :D
 
I had a buddy who gutted an old "sparco" graphic equalizer, he wired the bass control knob as a kill switch. Only started with the bass turned all the way down.
 
For my rig I run a kill switch to remove all power from the vehicle and am installing a tether for use when wheeling and need to kill it. I also have a 50 circut breaker killing all fused and hot power to my ign and starter switched and such. I can trip that as well for theft deterance. Only thing I leave powered with the kills and crk breaker is the memory feed to my ECM.
 
i have one that also kills the fuel pump, and when i hear the engine crank and crank i run outside with my 12 gauge and say hello to the perp.
 
Thanks guys...I think I'll start mocking this up this weekend...I'm sure I'll post back with picks and questions :D
 
skyshark186 said:
I have kc's on the front and have a switch for them on the dash that doesnt look like a light switch. And its in with the mass of other 40 knobs. Then i have one that says KC on it down by the column. Its the coil wire kill switch. Funny as s*** to watch someone who doesnt know me try to start the truck.

"Dude, its flooded or something."

Click, Vrooom. :D

What color is your truck, again? :D
 
Jman said:
What color is your truck, again? :D

and where can i find it around 3 in the morning? ;)
 
my rig has a match attached to the battery that lights a 6' long fuse that sets off a dynamite charge that drops a 20' diameter ACME All Purpose Solid Steel Ball from the roof right onto the coyote trying to steal my FJ-40.

:)
 
Does anyone have a basic wiring diagram of this set up?
 
IS this black wire with the yellow stripe the power coil wire

80951995.jpg
 
Landpimp said:
togle switch hidden in the cab someplace(you pick the spot) one wire ground(in the cab), the other wire to the coil negitive(or is it positive) all yo uare doing is grounding out the coil. I like the ground out because you are not caring any power into the cab, but you can do it the other way around, 2 power wires running into cab, the switch cuts the power.

Landpimp, I like the idea of not running the power of the coil into the cab. But I am a bit unclear on how you ground out the coil. Is it as simple as interupting the ground wire with a toggle in the cab?

Thanks for any help.

Drew <><
 
How about a device that locks all the wheels? I put a a couple of solonoids on the out lines of the master cylinder. Similar to a line lock. Looks and installs like a line lock, but will only let fluid through when 12V is applied. After power to it is turned off, i push down my brake pedal and all wheels are locked. No moving the car until 12V applied to the solonoid. It's a
standard Parker valve sold at Industrial supply places. Gets installed opposite the fluid flow arrows shown on the valve.
Parker has no less than 50 versions. Either + or - or any combo to activate, and models with various Volt ranges and amp requirements to operate. I use an ignition on power source with a hidden toggle switch in series. I usually only use one for the front brakes, but used two on my cruiser cause it's so valuable to me :D

It's a Parker Skinner valve part# 7121kbn1nf00n0c111c1
best used in conjunction with a hood lock.

A kill switch won't work for me. I don't have a coil or trans nuetral switch :D

lc14.jpg
 
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