KDSS rust

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Brett19648 said:
So I knew when I purchased my 09 last month that there was a little rust on the frame. To me it appeared to be superficial surface rust, mostly on weld seams, a little worse in some areas than others but nothing crazy. My plan was to hit it with a wire brush and repaint it then hit everything with fluid film... I was not aware that the kdss valves had the potential to rust and seize though (or that they were on the frame under the truck), so it was not something I inspected prior to purchase. I had figured dealing with the frame would be a project for the spring...

I was greasing the drive shaft today and figured I'd check out the kdss valves while I was under there. I hit it with some liquid wrench and figured I'd come back in a day or 2 and see if they move. I'm not holding out much hope.

I still feel like the rust everywhere else is just superficial. Sucks these kdss valves are so prone to rusting...

Anyone know a good mechanic in south jersey or is this a job for the dealership?
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Mine were ugly as well and with some patience I got them un-frozen:

KDSS - UNfrozen! :) How I did it...
 
Well I went at it today with a wire wheel, a bottle of kroil and a torch. Took around 2 hours I'd say. The Allen bolt closer the frame broke much easier. The one further away I bent 2 Allen keys attempting to turn. I eventually had to break out my impact gun and the #5 bit and that did the trick... I didn't go that route initially bc I was worried I'd go beyond 3 turns but I think I caught it straight away once it broke free and it's all good to go now.

3F08F740-1E2C-4A25-B199-E82479A7A49D_zpscsqupy3d.jpg
 
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Also, the wire that was zip tied around the body of the KDSS valve housing. Anyone know what that's for?
 
Nice work Brett.
 
Brett19648 said:
Well I went at it today with a wire wheel, a bottle of kroil and a torch. Took around 2 hours I'd say. The Allen bolt closer the frame broke much easier. The one further away I bent 2 Allen keys attempting to turn. I eventually had to break out my impact gun and the #5 bit and that did the trick... I didn't go that route initially bc I was worried I'd go beyond 3 turns but I think I caught it straight away once it broke free and it's all good to go now.

3F08F740-1E2C-4A25-B199-E82479A7A49D_zpscsqupy3d.jpg
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Now put a protective coat of rust inhibitor on that unit to preserve your hard work. She shines up nicely
 
Willy beamin said:
Now put a protective coat of rust inhibitor on that unit to preserve your hard work. She shines up nicely
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I drenched the whole thing in amsoil hdmp. Then I worked the allen bolts back and fourth a few times and put some anti seize compound on them. I've read about other people using marine rated grease but I didn't have any. The hdmp is similar to fluid film but it cures to be almost wax like.


Since it was off I also hit the cover with the wire brush and repainted it.
 
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I have been curious about this for some time now, but why or what is the driving issue to cause you guys a need to turn those Allen bolts.
Basically why mess with them, is there something wrong with the way the KDS is performing to creat a need to adjust those bolts? Again just curious .
 
cc1999 said:
I have been curious about this for some time now, but why or what is the driving issue to cause you guys a need to turn those Allen bolts.
Basically why mess with them, is there something wrong with the way the KDS is performing to creat a need to adjust those bolts? Again just curious .
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from what I understand the pressure in the KDSS system needs to be equalized when taller springs are installed. If it's not the vehicle will lean. Re-equalizing the system is accomplished by turning those Allen bolts 3 turns, rocking the LC about so the fluid settles properly then tightening them back up.

I'm sure someone more well informed than me will chime in shortly, but I think that's it.
 
cc1999 said:
I have been curious about this for some time now, but why or what is the driving issue to cause you guys a need to turn those Allen bolts.
Basically why mess with them, is there something wrong with the way the KDS is performing to creat a need to adjust those bolts? Again just curious .
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When you swap out your suspension, you would normally release this valve (no more than exactly 3 turns loosened!), and then tighten again after install.

Loosening them other times basically allows your truck to move fluid freely within the KDSS system...and hopefully allows you to make ride height balance and ride height discrepancies left/right go away. When you tighten it again, you are basically setting what it then assumes is level and the KDSS then operate as normal.

Sometimes you can open the valve...rock your vehicle back and forth a bit on level surface, and it helps. If now, you can intentionally make adjustments by cranking up the low side a bit with a floor jack with valves open...let it sit a bit, then close the valve (@MScruiser did a nice write-up on this IIRC). You will then have (hopefully) a level-sitting truck.
 
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do the valves regulate pressure in the system left/right and front/back?
 
According to that you can turn the Allen bolts 3.5 turns and the system is at 435psi....

What's all this 3 turn and 600psi nonsense???:rofl:
 
If you want to flirt with that last .5 turn go for it. Post up how it goes for you. Lol
 
Willy beamin said:
If you want to flirt with that last .5 turn go for it. Post up how it goes for you. Lol
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Ha! This KDSS thing should be a NO BEER mod... with 3.2 beers...3.5 and 3 turns maybe feel the same? :hillbilly:
 
cc1999 said:
I have been curious about this for some time now, but why or what is the driving issue to cause you guys a need to turn those Allen bolts.
Basically why mess with them, is there something wrong with the way the KDS is performing to creat a need to adjust those bolts? Again just curious .
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People are seeking to preserve the option to adjust the system in the future. Corrosion can make loosening the adjusters nearly impossible. I don't need to re-balance pressures on my rig at the moment but I have cycled the valves and taken steps to ensure than it will not fight me in the future.
 
So does anyone know what that wire and dongle zip tied to the KDSS housing and clipped to the cover is for?
 
I remember someone saying it was for running board lights on other models not sold in the US. I don't know that to be factual though.
 
Willy beamin said:
I remember someone saying it was for running board lights on other models not sold in the US. I don't know that to be factual though.
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This and/or the LX I believe is what I heard. Urban legend tho, I have no proof.
 
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