Build Julian's 1989 FJ62 Build

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julianramirez1005

julianramirez1005

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 12, 2025
Threads
17
Messages
76
Location
Eureka, California
Hello Everybody,
Starting off I will be referring to the donor vehicle as Rusty and the Chassis I am transplanting into as Scooby.

Going to be pulling the 3fe (151k original miles) from Rusty this weekend fingers crossed. Never pulled an engine before but I am very excited to dive in. I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks I need to know before starting this job. Fortunately, I will have my dad who has pretty extensive experience with pulling engines, transmissions, welding etc. He has a forklift which I'm hoping will help make this job a bit easier.

Here's the kicker. Scoob has the engine mount brackets cut off the frame by the PO who had big plans of a twin turbo ls build :rolleyes:. Luckily the original brackets were removed very cleanly.

Our plan right now:
1. Remove engine with transmission from Rusty.
2. Major cleaning and some other preventative maintenance while the engine is out
3. Angle grinder w/cutting wheel the old mounts off the frame as cleanly as possible
4. Prep everything for welding
5. Attach brackets to the engine
6. Lower the engine and transmission into Scooby and bolt up transmission to stage it
7. Tack the brackets on the frame
8. Remove engine and transmission to have room to properly weld the brackets on
9. Install everything and drive off into the sunset :happy:

Questions:
1. Is there an aftermarket 3fe engine mounting option?
2. Is there a better way to achieve my end goal?
3. Should I ask a local fabricator to make some new mounts?

Any and all input is appreciated.
Thanks Everybody

PS Rusty is the grey one with the chopped up hood and Scooby is the gold one

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I would make some sort of jig/bracket based on the old chassis to ensure the mount brackets are welded on in exactly the correct position. Could be as simple as a couple of lengths of rod/box section sized to the front cross member, and across the centre of the chassis to the opposite chassis member.
 
Update:
Finally got the 3fe out of my rusty fj62 and am in the process of giving it a good bath and doing all the seals and gaskets I can while its out. my biggest mistake was not getting a load leveler. I did not realize how back heavy the drive train is.

To preface I had leaks just about everywhere I could. I could be going overboard a bit, but I thinks it's worth it for the peace of mind.

Here is my list of TO-Dos before it goes into the shell:
  • Push Rod Cover Gasket DONE
  • Water Pump gasket DONE
  • Timing Cover Gasket and Front Crank Seal DONE
  • Rear Crank Seal DONE
  • Oil Pan Gasket
  • Transmission Oil Pan Gasket DONE
  • Transmission Oil Strainer
  • T Case front & back Output Shaft Seals DONE
  • Oil Cooler Gaskets (just because I removed it for cleaning) DONE
  • Rear Main Seal DONE

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Very, very, Nice! Good Job! While you have the engine out, there is a High Pressure Power Steering Line that could be replaced. PIA if the engine is in the truck as you have to lift the body otherwise. Please refer to below article and replacement part.

ColoradoCarlisle

Thread 'Custom FJ62 Power Steering Line'

Hello, I have done some searches and found a little bit of information but not enough that I feel like I know the answer for sure

My 88 has a pretty decent leak on the high-pressure line coming out of the reservoir, maybe five or 6 inches from the reservoir

It sounds like a tedious job to remove the front radiator. Raise the body to try to replace the lines with something original.

Is there a way to have a line custom-made that I could possibly route myself to buy me maybe three or four months until I have some more time to dive in and do this correctly

Not sure how much of a pain in...
 
MWM1 said:
Very, very, Nice! Good Job! While you have the engine out, there is a High Pressure Power Steering Line that could be replaced. PIA if the engine is in the truck as you have to lift the body otherwise. Please refer to below article and replacement part.

ColoradoCarlisle

Thread 'Custom FJ62 Power Steering Line'

Hello, I have done some searches and found a little bit of information but not enough that I feel like I know the answer for sure

My 88 has a pretty decent leak on the high-pressure line coming out of the reservoir, maybe five or 6 inches from the reservoir

It sounds like a tedious job to remove the front radiator. Raise the body to try to replace the lines with something original.

Is there a way to have a line custom-made that I could possibly route myself to buy me maybe three or four months until I have some more time to dive in and do this correctly

Not sure how much of a pain in...
Click to expand...
Yeah, a couple weeks before I pulled the engine the high-pressure line exploded. I have a new one ready to be installed but it's somewhat low on the priorities as of now. Thank you :cool:
 
Progress update Motor Mounts
I’ve been putting the nose to the grind stone with this project and I’m happy to report I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel. Most of the work I planned on doing is done.

The next big step is welding the mounts in as I mentioned in earlier post. Me and pops ended up making a jig as well as taking some reference measurements. Getting the old mounts off was not the easiest thing I’ve ever done. Just gotta get a few hours with my dad and some good weather and the engine should be ready to fire up for the first time in the new shell.
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Engine Mounts welded In
Motor Mounts are in. Somehow didn't take a picture of the final product whoops
Been soaking my fuel tank in seafoam in attempts to clean it out a bit.
Going to be putting the engine in the new rig for the first time this weekend. fingers crossed everything goes well.
Still need to blast out the hard lines with brake clean and make sure they are clean.

Next:
Gonna be going through the brakes and replacing hoses and parts as needed hopefully everything is in good working order

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toy_tek said:
I can hear that engine stand groaning from here.

j/k... nice progress!
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Yeah it was stressing me out how much it was flexing. It’s rated 3/4 ton but I should’ve spent a little extra and got a 1 ton. Thank you
 
3FE goes in finally
Had quite the weekend. Moved into a new house and got my engine into my rig all in 2 days.

How it went: started by getting the engine and the trans mated. Made sure the TC was fully seated before that. Mated them and bolted up the flex plate to the TC pretty easily. I roughly lined up the holes with the marks I made when I pulled the TC, brought the engine and trans together, and turned the TC through the hole where the starter goes to line it up the rest of the way.

Next was getting it in, and I can't believe I didn't get a load leveler for this. Could've saved 2 hours of pulling it in and out with a different chain setup. Live and learn I guess :bang:. Once we got a setup that accommodated the angle, we needed to set it in, I had my jack underneath the rig and set the transfer on that, then jacked up the back till we could finagle the engine onto its brackets that we welded in. This was a make-or-break moment, as we didn't do any mocking up with the engine when we welded the mounts in—just used the jigs pictured in previous posts. It wasn't a perfect fit, but after much prying and shimmying we got the engine bolted to the front mounts and proceeded with the rear crossmember, which bolted in and lined up perfectly.

At this point it was a brisk 45 degrees—cold and windy—so after connecting shift linkages and some connectors I called it a night.

I have a terrible habit of not taking enough pictures :meh:

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Runs and Drives ish
Started it up for the first time and i will say it felt amazing. This is the first major project ive ever taken on and it was very gratifying getting in and starting it up. I still have so much to do but this was a major win.

I got the driveshafts hooked up and figured out im gonna need to get them lengthened. The slip yoke sits a lot further out due to the soa. Thinking I will just them lengthened at the local driveshaft shop. Could this be solved with long slip yokes?

I ended up replacing the brake booster with the one from my donor and my brakes work great. followed fsm and bled them with success.

In my very short-lived test drive i noticed a pretty concerning grinding from the rear driver wheel. Took the wheel off and found metal shaving all over the caliper and discovered that the wheel is scraping the caliper :bang:. This wasn't the grinding noise though, it sounded clunkier. No play in the tire so i don't thinks it's a wheel bearing. Pulled rotor and caliper off and discovered one of the springs and clips that holds the e brake pad was ajar and rubbing on the axle. Fixed it put it back. I like the wheels it came with so im a bit bummed there is issues with them. I have some options.

Option 1: I have the stock wheels from my mom's fj80 which I could get new tires on and run those but i honestly don't think they will look great. Not a big fan of the stock 80 wheels. Not to mention it has a really nice set of 35 12.5 15 Dick Cepek radial FC-II that I want to use for the time being.
Option 2: Get some spacers and try to clear the caliper. I don't like this option either because I don't like how wide the tires look already and I don't want them to stick out even more.
Option 3: I could remove some material from the wheel, but this gets pretty sketch. Can't remove material from caliper because it's hitting a crucial spot that i would not grind on.

Discovered that PO replaced the rear axle with one from an 80 series, I think? It has abs sensors and disc brakes with drum brakes for the e-brake.

That's where I'm at for now. She's got issues but I'm getting closer and closer everyday :beer:
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onemanarmy said:
An 80 axle is wider than a 62, so a quick measurement can tell you. Is your rear axle wider than the front?

Correct, 62 did not have rear discs from factory.
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Yup rear axle is wider and the front has a spacer on it to compensate.
 
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Just for documentation purposes. FJ62 with 80 series stock wheels and 265/75r/16
 
julianramirez1005 said:
Started it up for the first time and i will say it felt amazing. This is the first major project ive ever taken on and it was very gratifying getting in and starting it up. I still have so much to do but this was a major win.

I got the driveshafts hooked up and figured out im gonna need to get them lengthened. The slip yoke sits a lot further out due to the soa. Thinking I will just them lengthened at the local driveshaft shop. Could this be solved with long slip yokes?

I ended up replacing the brake booster with the one from my donor and my brakes work great. followed fsm and bled them with success.

In my very short-lived test drive i noticed a pretty concerning grinding from the rear driver wheel. Took the wheel off and found metal shaving all over the caliper and discovered that the wheel is scraping the caliper :bang:. This wasn't the grinding noise though, it sounded clunkier. No play in the tire so i don't thinks it's a wheel bearing. Pulled rotor and caliper off and discovered one of the springs and clips that holds the e brake pad was ajar and rubbing on the axle. Fixed it put it back. I like the wheels it came with so im a bit bummed there is issues with them. I have some options.

Option 1: I have the stock wheels from my mom's fj80 which I could get new tires on and run those but i honestly don't think they will look great. Not a big fan of the stock 80 wheels. Not to mention it has a really nice set of 35 12.5 15 Dick Cepek radial FC-II that I want to use for the time being.
Option 2: Get some spacers and try to clear the caliper. I don't like this option either because I don't like how wide the tires look already and I don't want them to stick out even more.
Option 3: I could remove some material from the wheel, but this gets pretty sketch. Can't remove material from caliper because it's hitting a crucial spot that i would not grind on.

Discovered that PO replaced the rear axle with one from an 80 series, I think? It has abs sensors and disc brakes with drum brakes for the e-brake.

That's where I'm at for now. She's got issues but I'm getting closer and closer everyday :beer:
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might just be the picture, but if you get vibration issues, check that rear pinion angle vs the tcase output
 
New Shoes New
Picked up some tundra steelies on marketplace and slapped some 285 75r 16 Toyo A/Ts on them and I am stoked. Originally, I was going to go 31575r16, but I didn't do my due diligence on the tundra steelies, and they are 16 x 7. 315s need 8 inch wide I guess 🤷‍♂️. Regardless, worked out just fine and looks great IMO

worth noting: some quick data I had my girlfriend jot down
  • 2nd gear — 2500 rpm — 32 mph
  • 3rd gear — 2000 rpm — 39 mph
  • 3rd gear — 2600 rpm — 50 mph
Chat gpt is telling me I most likely have stock 4.11 gears. It doesn't feel terribly slow but definitely not great. I need to get h55, it feels like such a shame having the auto, takes all the fun out of it. Guess I need to start selling extra parts for h55 money.

EDIT: Dont trust chat gpt. This handy calculator helped me figure out I have 4.88 gears. Must've been installed when po did air lockers.
Gear Ratio Calculator


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