Joining the FJ40 Crew

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Or should I go HEI like this from Cruiser Corps?
cruisercorps.com

HEI Distributor for F and 2F Engines FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 1958-1987

This internal high dwell distributor provides longer spark duration for a crisper, smoother running engine. Along with more horsepower and torque, additional benefits include quicker starting and smoother idle. Fits 58 – 87 Toyota F and 2F engines.
cruisercorps.com cruisercorps.com
 
I don't mind adjusting points. I like the simplicity of straight mechanical advance - its a tractor, no vacuum nothing. The Delco dizzy that came on my 72 back in 82 finally wore out - I sort of rebuilt it about 2005. I bought this chinesium unit from Amoron for $130 a year ago. I swapped in my toyota drive gear from the dead Delco. I had to put on the thin O-ring seal from the Delco too, the china one was too fat and I couldn't get the distributor to fit all the way down. I re-used my cap and wires from the old unit too. About 2 weeks later the china points arm bent, so I put in the points, condenser and rotor bug from the Delco. Has been running great for the last year.

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I have only had road side trouble twice with points that I could have fixed if they let me have a spare set of points. I think I have had at least 5 electronic failures that left me stranded until I could get a new brain box.
 
Can you find a tag with p/n on your dizzy?

20241202_195001.webp
 
I'm tapping out on the ignition problem. I have reached out to the local Cruiser club and one of the members is going to give me a hand he is recommending a DUI. First thing in the morning I'm heading out of town until until Thursday hopefully he can get me in Friday.

Right now I just want to get it on the road again so I can enjoy it.
 
On my ‘78, I had poor spark issues (I’m pretty sure it was a rust/ ground issue),

But I added a non-USA spec Toyota distributor (19100-61180) on my ‘67 (kept the points).

On my ‘78, I used the same distributor, but added a pertronix 91662LS, the flamethrower coil, and an HEI relay from coolerman to ensure 12V at the coil. My backup plan was DUI, just wasn’t sure if it would work with the stock side cover.
 
Just incase it means something…My DUI distributor had no fitment issues. I really never even needed to change it out. I bought all new parts from Performance Distributors in case I had a failure out on the road (over $320.00) and then sold the entire lot for $300? with the distributor , when the Holley Hyperspark arrived. Being smaller than the DUI, it has no fitment issues either. Truck does run great though

This was news to me but there is a handwritten number scribed on the bottom side of the distributor. Make a note of it for when you might need a part. Much more convenient than reading it through a dentist mirror- Upside down
 
So I just ordered the DUI. The local guy will fit me in in his shop in a few weeks. So I'll still get some good summertime fun out of it starting mid July-ish.

The last electrical bug I need to work out is the horn. The problem is somewhere between the fuse and the switch/button. I need to buy some longer jumpers though.
 
2dub said:
The last electrical bug I need to work out is the horn. The problem is somewhere between the fuse and the switch/button. I need to buy some longer jumpers though.
Click to expand...
Check your wiring diagram, I'm not going to.
But, if it's anything like my '74, the horn button supplies ground to the horn solenoid, not hot. The solenoid, when activated, connects the hot to the horn.
 
I'm just having a difficult time locating the horn relay. I've blown up highlighted Coolerman's provided wiring diagrams. But maybe I don't have one like in this post. Horn Relay - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/horn-relay.223926/

Testing I have:
  • connections are clean and I have continuity when the button is pressed.
  • continuity from the switch to the horns.
  • Jumping the horns they both work
Tomorrow I'm going to try to take the fuse box off and test continuity from the fuse to the switch.
 
2dub said:
I'm just having a difficult time locating the horn relay. I've blown up highlighted Coolerman's provided wiring diagrams. But maybe I don't have one like in this post. Horn Relay - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/horn-relay.223926/

Testing I have:
  • connections are clean and I have continuity when the button is pressed.
  • continuity from the switch to the horns.
  • Jumping the horns they both work
Tomorrow I'm going to try to take the fuse box off and test continuity from the fuse to the switch.
Click to expand...
The ‘79 doesn’t have a relay. It should have constant 12V+ to the horns themselves, then pressing your horn buttons on the wheel completes the ground circuit.

When you say you have continuity from the switch, do you mean from the horn buttons? It should be a GR wire that runs from the horn button on the wheel to the horns.

It’s powered off of the same circuit as the brake lights (always hot).
 
2dub said:
I'm guessing the two of you are correct and it's not removable.

For those of you who have run a DUI will I have to relocate the coolant hose or anything else. I'm de-smogged.
Click to expand...
Just coolant hose. Some say you need a dimpled 60 series lifter cover. I don’t and it works fine.
 
Got my cheap turn signal assembly which has the horn contact ring yesterday. Installed it this morning.

HORN WORKS!!!!!

BUT...

The headlights came on and wouldn't turn off.

So I went to my work bench disconnected everything horn related from both and installed the new into the OEM and bingo. Everything works as intended. So for $17 bucks on ebay, I'd say it was worth it.

Also I got my speedometer display straight. That's one of those little things that would end up driving me crazy. And I installed LEDs into the dash panel.

I was going to start something else, but it's too damn hot. Right now it's 98 deg with a heat index of 118. Inside my garage I'd say its 90+

Tomorrow, I'll put the soft top back on, so it will be ready to go to the shop and get the DUI installed.
 
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