Joining the FJ40 Crew

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So it isn't the coil. Nearly perfect results from the multimeter.

So I checked the ground and sanded everything to ensure good connections. I also wiped the coil down well.

Tomorrow (hopefully) I can test the igniter asst.

I'd like to drive it this weekend.
 
Completed my testing (see my wonderfully rigged up test set up - those cheap Chinese turn signals that didn't work for my truck actually came in handy) The culprit was the ignition Asst. The light should have flashed when I jumped the distributor plug, but didn't .
So as much as I would love to go to a DUI, I will end up divorced if I keep spending money at the rate I am so I'm going to the Pertronics epoxy coil and Pertronix Ignition Conversion Kit 1864A.

Hopefully I can get it before Friday (Holiday so I'm off work :D:D) and set up. I'll also increase the spark plug gap per multiple suggestions various posts here, and have it running in a few hours.
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Besides finding the culprit keeping my truck from starting I had a good day in the garage.

1. Installed a USB charger where I took out the cigarette lighter. I didn't have a 30mm step drill bit so I got a $7.00 one at Amazon which was exactly what it was worth. The shaft broke. Fortunately it got me close enough that I could finish it off with a Dremel.
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2. You can also see in the picture above I installed a little cubby. where the stereo was. I haven't listened to the radio in years. So I'm just going to stream to a portable speaker.

3. I installed the Bulletpoint phone mount that attaches to the roll cage. I wanted something very strong that could handle the rougher ride. I think this will work well.
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4. I put the bikini top on.
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I also gently bumped the rear view mirror when putting on the bikini top and the brittle plastic around the ball joint broke so I'll be shopping foe another one.
 
I may not be a smart man, but how the hell do you disconnect the speedo cable from the dash cluster? Part of the problem may be some of the 3 white plastic tabs may be broken. Wish I had taken a pic.

Buffchief said:
Added some LED lights to my cluster and they are much brighter but think Ill try the green ones to match. BUT, as soon as i changed to LED, the brightness could no longer be adjusted. Stays on full bright. Is that normal with LED's? All of the dash lights.

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From this post I wanted to put LEDs in my cluster, but I cant get the cluster out. Also, I want to see if I can get the speedo straighter. It's a tad off center and drives me crazy the more I look at it.
 
Make sure your disconnect the battery and there is a center tab on the speedo cable where it attaches to the spindle. Press it down and try to slip it off squarely… even though you are leaning it forward to extract it. Maybe you may find a spritz of silicone spray around the spindle to help ease it out
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I found the full sized LED throws a stronger light output than the mini’s but the are too long so, I did this on the cluster scatter shield
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That looks really good @knuckle47 I toyed with doing red, but thought that would be a little too much.

I looked and I actually did take a picture. You know old guys who have to take pics to zoom in to see things.

It appears the first two white tabs may be broken. The third you cant see in this pic is connected at both the top and bottom. But I don't think I'll get any garage time until Friday.

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This is the spot you will press on
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So in a true confession…after 51 years of land cruisers…I only discover this about 2 yrs ago when I was changing the speedo cable to eliminate the EGR device on the firewall. Cant say how many times I had removed the cluster in all those years on different FJ40’s but I did get it out.i’ll never forget the first..hit the ammeter terminals …BZZZT! That was in 1975.

On the recent LED swap I probably removed it at least 12 times in 4 days. Always sucked. I finally decided to tweak the tabs on the bottom of the cluster frame about 1/16”. Did A LOT to make it easy to take out and easy to drop in and the screws hold it solidly in place
 
Having a SOB of I time replacing the stock with rhe Pertronix. I can't get the reluctor to budge. Any ideas?

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What distributor is that? On the 60 series that ring was one piece with the rotor...
 
Just guessing here. Apply Kroil several times over several days. Make/modify yourself some sort of gear/bearing puller that can fit and grab at least the ring points (better if you can pull on the ring base). Heat the ring quickly so it can expand away from the shaft. Micro torch would do nicely. Heat a 3/8 or 5/8 bolt (fits between the points on the reluctor) to bright cherry red - hold it on the gear for a while and then try the puller.
 
That looks pressed on to me. Maybe its pinned or glued in place. You would have far more room to work if you can remove some of that surrounding stuff.
Free download manuals See how/if it comes apart

Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)

Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
www.cruisercult.com www.cruisercult.com
 
That's already an electronic distributor. I got one of those, I hear that the caps are NLA. Did Pertronix tell you they had an ignitor for that dizzy? I'm thinking that that reluctor ring doesn't come off.

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Fig 8.52 in the 1980 2F engine repair manual says remove parts in numerical order.
Not sure if it comes apart or not. I don't see an octane selector so maybe it not the same dizzy. Do more looking. Maybe SOR has diagrams/parts.
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charliemeyer007 said:
Fig 8.52 in the 1980 2F engine repair manual says remove parts in numerical order.
Not sure if it comes apart or not. I don't see an octane selector so maybe it not the same dizzy. Do more looking. Maybe SOR has diagrams/parts.
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I'm guessing the two of you are correct and it's not removable.

For those of you who have run a DUI will I have to relocate the coolant hose or anything else. I'm de-smogged.
 
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