Looks familiar.... 
JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration
- Thread starter JDCruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Hey Ambrew, yep it is the same guy that you used. Thanks for refering him. Will let you know how it fits into place, I don't think you had any major issues with yours?
- Thread starter
- #83
New Rear Frame Cross Member & Components Have Arrived
Hello,
Yesterday I drove to Michigan and picked up my new rear frame components. My frame rails are in good place but the rest was rotten. Vic sells a lot of LC parts and has a shop that makes frame compenents at a very affordable price. I got the following frame parts from him:
- Rear Frame Cross Member
- LH & RH Angled Frame Gussets
- LH & RH Gusset Plates
- LH & RH Spring Perches
He also makes frame rail ends that are often rotten, however mine were ok.
There were fit concerns expressed on here when I started digging into Vic's rear frame components for older (post 78) LC's. In January Vic pulled a later model cruiser and found that his parts were indeed wrong. He had the shop correct the issues and his frame components should fit perfect now.
He had them setup at his shop and I was very pleased with the fit. Later this week I will be doing a test fit to my truck and will let you guys know the results.
Below are some pictures of the parts which are fit as a subassembly.
Hello,
Yesterday I drove to Michigan and picked up my new rear frame components. My frame rails are in good place but the rest was rotten. Vic sells a lot of LC parts and has a shop that makes frame compenents at a very affordable price. I got the following frame parts from him:
- Rear Frame Cross Member
- LH & RH Angled Frame Gussets
- LH & RH Gusset Plates
- LH & RH Spring Perches
He also makes frame rail ends that are often rotten, however mine were ok.
There were fit concerns expressed on here when I started digging into Vic's rear frame components for older (post 78) LC's. In January Vic pulled a later model cruiser and found that his parts were indeed wrong. He had the shop correct the issues and his frame components should fit perfect now.
He had them setup at his shop and I was very pleased with the fit. Later this week I will be doing a test fit to my truck and will let you guys know the results.
Below are some pictures of the parts which are fit as a subassembly.
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JDCruiser said:
Looks great! Looks like Vic made it right. Too bad I had to figure all that on my own.
Whats the hold up here ? They will have the tar ponds cleaned up before you finish that thing.
time for an update..... could you let me know where and how much this back piece cost you, mine is similar but i just rebuilt my bumper. im interested in going back to the stock look though. thx.
- Thread starter
- #89
Too funny but true!! Hey I heard they were just going to concrete over the ponds, seal it in, is that true!! Wasn't that the very first idea they had back in 1990.
I am still here, haven't been on mud for months now, project had to go on hold for the summer, work and my side business were very busy and also got a camping trailer to spend more time with the family, so that killed all of my spare time. However, just cleaned the garage on the weekend, getting ready to get back at her.
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #90
Answer to Peep's Question
Hey Peep,
Are you just after the cross member? If so, I think it was just under $200. The entire sub-assembly, gussets, gusset plates, perches, and cross member was around $450 if I recall correctly, however, if you are serious, I can pull up the exact price or look up Vic's Ebay site, I think his name is landcruiserparts, he has the individual components listed there.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Hey Peep,
Are you just after the cross member? If so, I think it was just under $200. The entire sub-assembly, gussets, gusset plates, perches, and cross member was around $450 if I recall correctly, however, if you are serious, I can pull up the exact price or look up Vic's Ebay site, I think his name is landcruiserparts, he has the individual components listed there.
Let me know if you need anything else.
- Thread starter
- #91
Reply to Eddie's Question
Hey Eddie,
I got my rear floor from EBI, check out earlier in my thead as I have pictures up there. Their parts aren't perfect but you can tell they came off a die and are not hand formed. For the cost I was impressed, was very tough to find a vendor north of the boarder and keep the shipping costs down. Threw it on a Greyhound bus for $50 to come from BC to Ontario. The primer they used doesn't look to be very good but that doesn't matter, I will strip it down with the sand blaster so I can get a rough surface as well and either epoxy primer or rust bullet the panel. I have not done a test fit yet (I know, I know almost 8 months later) but plan on doing one as soon as finish this round of sand blasting on the frame. I am getting geared up to do work on it now. Message me back if you want to know the results of the test fit.
Hey Eddie,
I got my rear floor from EBI, check out earlier in my thead as I have pictures up there. Their parts aren't perfect but you can tell they came off a die and are not hand formed. For the cost I was impressed, was very tough to find a vendor north of the boarder and keep the shipping costs down. Threw it on a Greyhound bus for $50 to come from BC to Ontario. The primer they used doesn't look to be very good but that doesn't matter, I will strip it down with the sand blaster so I can get a rough surface as well and either epoxy primer or rust bullet the panel. I have not done a test fit yet (I know, I know almost 8 months later) but plan on doing one as soon as finish this round of sand blasting on the frame. I am getting geared up to do work on it now. Message me back if you want to know the results of the test fit.
- Thread starter
- #92
Back at yet
Well, yesterday evening I had the opportunity to get a good crack at getting the garage preped for working on the cruiser again. Had it barried with kids summer toys etc and couldn't get close to the truck to work on it. My tools were also spread all over the garage, so I spent a good hour putting them away and get resonable organized again.
I also charged the batteries and turned over the engine a couple of times so that the pistons are moving and avoid engine siezing.
Next steps are to continue with the batch of sand blasting media that I have loaded in the pot blaster to touch up the surface rust from the summer on the frame rails and thern get to some other sections. After that I will do a test fit of the new bumper and frame components I got last spring and then the new floor.
Looking forward to getting back to working on the truck again.
Well, yesterday evening I had the opportunity to get a good crack at getting the garage preped for working on the cruiser again. Had it barried with kids summer toys etc and couldn't get close to the truck to work on it. My tools were also spread all over the garage, so I spent a good hour putting them away and get resonable organized again.
I also charged the batteries and turned over the engine a couple of times so that the pistons are moving and avoid engine siezing.
Next steps are to continue with the batch of sand blasting media that I have loaded in the pot blaster to touch up the surface rust from the summer on the frame rails and thern get to some other sections. After that I will do a test fit of the new bumper and frame components I got last spring and then the new floor.
Looking forward to getting back to working on the truck again.
More pics! Glad to hear you're moving forward. I saw your post for info about paint. Prep is everything. No matter what you use, you need a CLEAN surface. Get a good degreaser that is meant for final cleanup.
I had a hard time controling dust and ended up having it painted in a booth. I'm sure if I had better ventilation, like some have made, it would help a lot.
Personally, I like the 2 part epoxies for primer. They are tough as nails and you don't have to topcoat anytime soon as long as they stay out of the sun.
Good luck!
I had a hard time controling dust and ended up having it painted in a booth. I'm sure if I had better ventilation, like some have made, it would help a lot.
Personally, I like the 2 part epoxies for primer. They are tough as nails and you don't have to topcoat anytime soon as long as they stay out of the sun.
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #94
Reply to Ambrew
Hey Ambrew,
Good to hear from you. Will hopefully have mor pics up in the next couple weeks showing the test fit of the new rear cross member and components and also the rear floor from EBI. Was out in the garage sandblasting yesterday so starting to get back into it again.
Thanks for the advice on the painting, that is good to know that the epoxy primers are what they say they are, tough. Thanks for the advice on the dust, will have to consider how I control that....
In terms of degresser, is there one you would recommend? plan on sandblasting almost everything before I paint, however using a degresser still makes good sense. Let me know if there is specific one you like?
Also, looking to source PPG products (ie. epoxy primer), since you are fellow canuck, do you know of a good place to get it?
Thanks again for the advice and touching base.
Hey Ambrew,
Good to hear from you. Will hopefully have mor pics up in the next couple weeks showing the test fit of the new rear cross member and components and also the rear floor from EBI. Was out in the garage sandblasting yesterday so starting to get back into it again.
Thanks for the advice on the painting, that is good to know that the epoxy primers are what they say they are, tough. Thanks for the advice on the dust, will have to consider how I control that....
In terms of degresser, is there one you would recommend? plan on sandblasting almost everything before I paint, however using a degresser still makes good sense. Let me know if there is specific one you like?
Also, looking to source PPG products (ie. epoxy primer), since you are fellow canuck, do you know of a good place to get it?
Thanks again for the advice and touching base.
- Thread starter
- #95
New Rear Cross Member Test Fit #1
Hello all,
Today I cleaned up from the sandblasted, collected the aluminum oxide from the catch tarps and screened it for the next sand blasting session.
I then did the first test fit of my new rear cross member. Below are some of the results of the test fit. I got the rear cross member and other rear frame components from Vic in Michigan. I have to remove 2 rivets from the frame and get some proper bolts that fit the frame as the ones supplied are too big for the frame holes. However, from what I can tell it lined up pretty good. The top 2 frame holes lined up perfect without needing to force the frame rails at all.
The spacer plates that came with the cross member to make up for the lack of indents are slightly undersized, need to make up thicker ones, not a big deal.
Next step is to remove the 2 rivets, get some proper sized bolts, and some drift pins to help line up the holes. Will post more pics when I do another test fit.
Hello all,
Today I cleaned up from the sandblasted, collected the aluminum oxide from the catch tarps and screened it for the next sand blasting session.
I then did the first test fit of my new rear cross member. Below are some of the results of the test fit. I got the rear cross member and other rear frame components from Vic in Michigan. I have to remove 2 rivets from the frame and get some proper bolts that fit the frame as the ones supplied are too big for the frame holes. However, from what I can tell it lined up pretty good. The top 2 frame holes lined up perfect without needing to force the frame rails at all.
The spacer plates that came with the cross member to make up for the lack of indents are slightly undersized, need to make up thicker ones, not a big deal.
Next step is to remove the 2 rivets, get some proper sized bolts, and some drift pins to help line up the holes. Will post more pics when I do another test fit.
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- Thread starter
- #96
More Pictures of Rear Cross Member Test Fit
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- Thread starter
- #97
Rear Frame Members Test Fit - Back at it
Hey all,
Well it has been crazy lately with work and family stuff. Haven't had much time to get at the truck in the last couple of months but starting to get back into it. Got a couple of hours at it last weekend and then another 4 hours at it yesterday after hunting for easter eggs with the kids!!!! Lol
I got all the rear frame replacement parts put on and test fitted yesterday. In order to get them to fit I had to exand all the holes from 3/8" to 7/16" and some even to 1/2" but with that got all of them to line up. The angled gussets needed the 1/2" holes where they connect to the frame because I believe the gusset warped when the fabricator welded it up. Had to use a combination of drift pins in certain spots to get alignment. I also had to take a flap disk to the outer surface of the gussets and inner surface of the main cross member becasue the fit was way to tight, had about a 1/8 fit interface and would tear the paint right off trying to pound them in to position. I went a little thin on one side but these were overkill to start with. I may correct it by welding a tie plate into the bend of the gusset plate so it doesn't fatigue over time.
I also test fit up the body mounts on the rear cross member, they fit very nice and the sill seems to sit where it should.
The one thing I have left to correct is, I don't like the mating of the gussets to the perch plates, the gusset seems to sit lower than the frame rail creating a inboard camber conditon to both spring perches. I throw a piece of round bar in there to see how far it was off and one side is about 1/16" and the other is about a 1/32", noticed by those gaps on the inboard side of the mounts, meaning they are tipped inboard. Best way to correct this is to slightly shave a bit of material off the gusset and perch plate with a flap disk so that it sits flat with the frame rail.
I will post some pictures later of the fitting results and alignment of the rear perches.
Hey all,
Well it has been crazy lately with work and family stuff. Haven't had much time to get at the truck in the last couple of months but starting to get back into it. Got a couple of hours at it last weekend and then another 4 hours at it yesterday after hunting for easter eggs with the kids!!!! Lol
I got all the rear frame replacement parts put on and test fitted yesterday. In order to get them to fit I had to exand all the holes from 3/8" to 7/16" and some even to 1/2" but with that got all of them to line up. The angled gussets needed the 1/2" holes where they connect to the frame because I believe the gusset warped when the fabricator welded it up. Had to use a combination of drift pins in certain spots to get alignment. I also had to take a flap disk to the outer surface of the gussets and inner surface of the main cross member becasue the fit was way to tight, had about a 1/8 fit interface and would tear the paint right off trying to pound them in to position. I went a little thin on one side but these were overkill to start with. I may correct it by welding a tie plate into the bend of the gusset plate so it doesn't fatigue over time.
I also test fit up the body mounts on the rear cross member, they fit very nice and the sill seems to sit where it should.
The one thing I have left to correct is, I don't like the mating of the gussets to the perch plates, the gusset seems to sit lower than the frame rail creating a inboard camber conditon to both spring perches. I throw a piece of round bar in there to see how far it was off and one side is about 1/16" and the other is about a 1/32", noticed by those gaps on the inboard side of the mounts, meaning they are tipped inboard. Best way to correct this is to slightly shave a bit of material off the gusset and perch plate with a flap disk so that it sits flat with the frame rail.
I will post some pictures later of the fitting results and alignment of the rear perches.
- Thread starter
- #98
Rear Frame Members Test Fit - Pictures
Last weekend I finished the tuning of the rear frame components and did a final test fit. I had to grind down the bottom surfaces of the gusset plates and top surface of the spring hangers to remove the inboard camber. Here are some of the pictures of the test fit. My next step is to source the correct hardware for the frame connections.
Last weekend I finished the tuning of the rear frame components and did a final test fit. I had to grind down the bottom surfaces of the gusset plates and top surface of the spring hangers to remove the inboard camber. Here are some of the pictures of the test fit. My next step is to source the correct hardware for the frame connections.
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- Thread starter
- #99
Rear Frame Members Test Fit - Pics Continued...
More pics...
More pics...
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- Thread starter
- #100
Rear Cross Members Test Fit - Continued 2....
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