Nice work JD.
JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration
- Thread starter JDCruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
Thanks Longhunter. I am pretty happy with the way Vic's frame members fit together, needed to slot a couple of the holes but nothing major.
- Thread starter
- #103
Rear Body Mount Test Fit
On the weekend I tested out the fit of my rear body mounts. These were purchased as a kit from CCOT, and I believe are made by Daystar. I bought the hardware at fastenal. I used the original spec hardware M10 X 80mm Grade 10.9. I think the bolts are a bit too long, so final hardware will be 75mm. I am going to go with flat and locking washers on both bolt head and nut. All hardware components will be with a yellow zinc coating.
Here are some of the pics from the test fitting.
On the weekend I tested out the fit of my rear body mounts. These were purchased as a kit from CCOT, and I believe are made by Daystar. I bought the hardware at fastenal. I used the original spec hardware M10 X 80mm Grade 10.9. I think the bolts are a bit too long, so final hardware will be 75mm. I am going to go with flat and locking washers on both bolt head and nut. All hardware components will be with a yellow zinc coating.
Here are some of the pics from the test fitting.
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- Thread starter
- #104
Rear Body Mount Pics Continued
One more pic...
One more pic...
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Hey JD, do you have a web address or email for Vic? I need the same cross rail and gussets plus frame extensions and I am already over $1100 before taxes and shipping. Much Appreciated
- Thread starter
- #106
Hey Cresent Wrench,
Just send you a PM.
Just send you a PM.
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- #107
Hello all,
Well I am back at it... Yep been off the project for about 10 months, life is too busy.
Today I did a final test fit of the frame members to get an accurate list of the hardware needed.
Well I am back at it... Yep been off the project for about 10 months, life is too busy.
Today I did a final test fit of the frame members to get an accurate list of the hardware needed.
It's amazing how time flies! Keep it up!!! After seeing yours, kinda wished I had changed my rear frame. There is a slight bow in it from the PO.
- Thread starter
- #109
Quick Update - Cutting Out Wheel Wells
Hello all,
Just a quick update. Last weekend I removed the roll bar from the truck in preparation to cut out the wheel wells. Just today I spent a couple of hours with some cut off wheels on my angle grinder and air tool cut off too. I cut out the driver's side wheel well. I chose to cut it out because I need to preserve the outer quarter panel and I figured it would be too difficult to drill out the spot welds and not dent or damage the outer quarter panel. I haven't cut out the curve section yet, with the main section gone, I will have better access to cut it out as it will be more detailed to avoid the curve and some brackets. The remaining flange that I have left from the wheel wells that is attached to the inner quarter panel, I plan on trimming down then angle grinding the remainder off. This is the best method I could come up with and not damage the outer quarter panels.
Hello all,
Just a quick update. Last weekend I removed the roll bar from the truck in preparation to cut out the wheel wells. Just today I spent a couple of hours with some cut off wheels on my angle grinder and air tool cut off too. I cut out the driver's side wheel well. I chose to cut it out because I need to preserve the outer quarter panel and I figured it would be too difficult to drill out the spot welds and not dent or damage the outer quarter panel. I haven't cut out the curve section yet, with the main section gone, I will have better access to cut it out as it will be more detailed to avoid the curve and some brackets. The remaining flange that I have left from the wheel wells that is attached to the inner quarter panel, I plan on trimming down then angle grinding the remainder off. This is the best method I could come up with and not damage the outer quarter panels.
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If your at that point why not just replace the qtrs. too?
- Thread starter
- #111
Reply
I thought about that but they were salvageable, no holes and not in that bad of shape, except where the inner panel meets the flange of the wheel wells. There is lots of stuff that needs to be replaced so trying to save the parts that don't and can be dressed up. I will need to put a thin sheet of metal to skirt along the inside of the quarter where the wheel meets it.
I thought about that but they were salvageable, no holes and not in that bad of shape, except where the inner panel meets the flange of the wheel wells. There is lots of stuff that needs to be replaced so trying to save the parts that don't and can be dressed up. I will need to put a thin sheet of metal to skirt along the inside of the quarter where the wheel meets it.
- Thread starter
- #113
Hey Longhunter,
Thanks for the heads up on real steel for the wheel well. I actually have a pair already. Got them from Pacol. Not the easiest parts I have ever ordered and waited for ever for them but they gave me a really good discount for my troubles. The fit is a bit small, they are about 10mm to short in length, nothing major and can be tuned to fit.
Thanks for the heads up on real steel for the wheel well. I actually have a pair already. Got them from Pacol. Not the easiest parts I have ever ordered and waited for ever for them but they gave me a really good discount for my troubles. The fit is a bit small, they are about 10mm to short in length, nothing major and can be tuned to fit.
- Thread starter
- #114
LH Inner Quarter Cut Out
Hello all,
Last week I ground down and removed the last bit of the inner LH wheel well (except for the curved section, still have to remove that). I also cut out the rotten inner panel, which is only an inner panel because of how the guy that fixed the rust on the quarters for the PO, he basically just bondoed the quarter panel then wrapped it on the outside with another panel. I want to remove as much of the rusted inner panel as possible so that it doesn't continue to rot from the exterior in as I won't be able to reach outside surface for rust bullet application.
Anyone, have any ideas how to coat the inner surfaces of both these panels with a rust bullet or something so that they don't continue to rust after the restoration? I plan on basically put a 16ga piece of steel to bride what is left of the inner and provide a surface for the wheel well flange to weld to.
Hello all,
Last week I ground down and removed the last bit of the inner LH wheel well (except for the curved section, still have to remove that). I also cut out the rotten inner panel, which is only an inner panel because of how the guy that fixed the rust on the quarters for the PO, he basically just bondoed the quarter panel then wrapped it on the outside with another panel. I want to remove as much of the rusted inner panel as possible so that it doesn't continue to rot from the exterior in as I won't be able to reach outside surface for rust bullet application.
Anyone, have any ideas how to coat the inner surfaces of both these panels with a rust bullet or something so that they don't continue to rust after the restoration? I plan on basically put a 16ga piece of steel to bride what is left of the inner and provide a surface for the wheel well flange to weld to.
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- Thread starter
- #115
What to do with Mid Channel Body Mount Section
Hello all,
I was really hoping to save the main beam, mid channel body support. An initial survey indicated it could be just descaled and rust bulleted, then replace the body mount and good to go. However, I did a closer look at the channel with the wheel well gone and it is bad.... Lots of lamination with the inner reinforcement panel, and the front side has some cracks in it. The mount area where it attaches to the frame is very think and will have some holes once I start descaling, both sides will have that condition. The midsection of the channel isn't too bad as it was tucked up behind the fuel tank so water didn't get at it as easily.
Anybody with recommendations as to the following things that I see I could do:
1) Replace entire Mid channel with Pacol or the likes ($400), couldn't find anyone else that makes this
2) Remove mid channel and have local shop copy template ($???)
3) Cut out just the ends where it forms the body mount and have local shop fabricate ($???)
4) Descale and coat with rust bullet
Hello all,
I was really hoping to save the main beam, mid channel body support. An initial survey indicated it could be just descaled and rust bulleted, then replace the body mount and good to go. However, I did a closer look at the channel with the wheel well gone and it is bad.... Lots of lamination with the inner reinforcement panel, and the front side has some cracks in it. The mount area where it attaches to the frame is very think and will have some holes once I start descaling, both sides will have that condition. The midsection of the channel isn't too bad as it was tucked up behind the fuel tank so water didn't get at it as easily.
Anybody with recommendations as to the following things that I see I could do:
1) Replace entire Mid channel with Pacol or the likes ($400), couldn't find anyone else that makes this
2) Remove mid channel and have local shop copy template ($???)
3) Cut out just the ends where it forms the body mount and have local shop fabricate ($???)
4) Descale and coat with rust bullet
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I hate to tell you but your probably in for a lot for rust. The front floor pan, inner and outer rocker panels all converge in that corner. If you go digging in there, it will lead to another spot, etc etc.
Ask me how I know?
How perfect do you want your truck to be, and how much are you willing to spend to get there?
Ask me how I know?
How perfect do you want your truck to be, and how much are you willing to spend to get there?
That being said, I think I would go PACOL
- Thread starter
- #118
Hey longhunter, thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I know it is kinda like peeling an onion, just one layer after another. The inner rocker and floor pans are shot and likely the front floor mounts, however, that is pretty much it, the humps for the seats and transmission area look good. Trying to minimize costs but also do the right repair so that I don't need to touch the body in these areas again after rust bulleting the stuff I put in and salvagable parts with twice a year rust proofing.
I hear you on Pacol, they supplied by wheel wells, however it was an absolutely nightmare to get the parts, at one point I gave up figuring I had lost my money, took over 6months, wasn't until I finally got someone over the phone at the office after about a hundred messages and phone calls that I got somewhere with them, they claimed they lost the shipment twice, so I would like to avoid buying from them again. Something seemed fishy too about their business setup, a lot of stuff didn't make sense.
I was wondering if it would be better to cut the sections out and have a local shop bend up the sheet metal for me using the old one as a template.
I hear you on Pacol, they supplied by wheel wells, however it was an absolutely nightmare to get the parts, at one point I gave up figuring I had lost my money, took over 6months, wasn't until I finally got someone over the phone at the office after about a hundred messages and phone calls that I got somewhere with them, they claimed they lost the shipment twice, so I would like to avoid buying from them again. Something seemed fishy too about their business setup, a lot of stuff didn't make sense.
I was wondering if it would be better to cut the sections out and have a local shop bend up the sheet metal for me using the old one as a template.
- Thread starter
- #119
LH Rear Wheel Removed
Hello all,
Today I finished cutting out the remainder of the LH Wheel well. Had to do some intricate cutting to remove the curved section. Wanted to make sure I got all of it out including the weld flange that secures to Quarter panel so that I don't have residual panels rotting away to later buldge out and cause issues. The PO had used some sort of tar like undercoating, flap disk on the angle grinder made quick work of it. It is pretty much all ready now for sandblasting and then test fitting up of the new wheel well panel.
Hello all,
Today I finished cutting out the remainder of the LH Wheel well. Had to do some intricate cutting to remove the curved section. Wanted to make sure I got all of it out including the weld flange that secures to Quarter panel so that I don't have residual panels rotting away to later buldge out and cause issues. The PO had used some sort of tar like undercoating, flap disk on the angle grinder made quick work of it. It is pretty much all ready now for sandblasting and then test fitting up of the new wheel well panel.
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- Thread starter
- #120
Hello all,
This weekend I cut out the remainder of the bad steel on the Driver's side Wheel well. That side is pretty much done now, ready for sand blasting. I then started in on the Passenger's side wheel well, got the main section of it cut out, started working on cutting out the remainder of the inner quarter which was in pretty bad shape. One or 2 more sessions at it and that section will also be ready for sand blasting. Here are some pictures of the progress on the weekend.
This weekend I cut out the remainder of the bad steel on the Driver's side Wheel well. That side is pretty much done now, ready for sand blasting. I then started in on the Passenger's side wheel well, got the main section of it cut out, started working on cutting out the remainder of the inner quarter which was in pretty bad shape. One or 2 more sessions at it and that section will also be ready for sand blasting. Here are some pictures of the progress on the weekend.