I don't know anything about an 81 tub but aren't there a bunch of spot welds you can drill out to remove the floor?
JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration
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I don't know anything about an 81 tub but aren't there a bunch of spot welds you can drill out to remove the floor?
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- #22
Cutting the Rear Floor - More Pics
More pictures of the rear floor cut lines. One of them is from taken from the underneath the floor from P side viewpoint. This is looking at the front cut line right behind the center member.
More pictures of the rear floor cut lines. One of them is from taken from the underneath the floor from P side viewpoint. This is looking at the front cut line right behind the center member.
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- Thread starter
- #23
Hey Gusb,
Thanks for the comment on the spot welds. Yes there are spot welds to the 2 cross members underneath and then on vertical wheel well flanges and at the sill. I thought long and hard about whether to cut it out or drill out the spot welds, and basically made the decision to cut it out. I could be completely wrong, never done this before it is my first resto but basically I decided to cut because I will be rebuilding the floor not with a replacement panel but fabricating my own out of sheet steel or checker plate. So I cut it out for being able to dimension stuff better and also because the whole thing will be fabricated off the truck and fit / welded in place. If I was going with a replacement panel, then for sure I would have cut the spot welds. Also, the floor is so bad and the cross members so rotten that I was afraid if I cut the spot welds out that it would just all crumble and be useless for dimensioning.
Please feel free to give me advice, never done this before, was a calculated decision but I might be missing something down the road that will bit me.
Thanks for the comment on the spot welds. Yes there are spot welds to the 2 cross members underneath and then on vertical wheel well flanges and at the sill. I thought long and hard about whether to cut it out or drill out the spot welds, and basically made the decision to cut it out. I could be completely wrong, never done this before it is my first resto but basically I decided to cut because I will be rebuilding the floor not with a replacement panel but fabricating my own out of sheet steel or checker plate. So I cut it out for being able to dimension stuff better and also because the whole thing will be fabricated off the truck and fit / welded in place. If I was going with a replacement panel, then for sure I would have cut the spot welds. Also, the floor is so bad and the cross members so rotten that I was afraid if I cut the spot welds out that it would just all crumble and be useless for dimensioning.
Please feel free to give me advice, never done this before, was a calculated decision but I might be missing something down the road that will bit me.
- Thread starter
- #24
Floor is Final Out!
Today I made the last of the cuts to free up the main floor section that I have cut out. It is in worse shape than I thought, pretty much entirely rotten. It also is the first time that I could get a real good look at the top surface of the frame and it too is a bit worse than I thought but if the rust is completely removed and sealed with a POR 15 or Rust Bullet it should last a long time. I am a little concerned with the rear center cross tube that supports the frame around the rear axle. Looks a little soft and might neet to be replaced.
With the rear floor out I also now understand the structure of the rear floor body mounts, was always wondering what the exact structure was but is obvious now, mounts just rest on the frame, have a counterbored hole in the center of the bushing that has a bolt securing it to the underside of the tub cross members
Below are some pics that I just snapped with the floor out. Got lots of rust removal to do, going to be a busy week.
Today I made the last of the cuts to free up the main floor section that I have cut out. It is in worse shape than I thought, pretty much entirely rotten. It also is the first time that I could get a real good look at the top surface of the frame and it too is a bit worse than I thought but if the rust is completely removed and sealed with a POR 15 or Rust Bullet it should last a long time. I am a little concerned with the rear center cross tube that supports the frame around the rear axle. Looks a little soft and might neet to be replaced.
With the rear floor out I also now understand the structure of the rear floor body mounts, was always wondering what the exact structure was but is obvious now, mounts just rest on the frame, have a counterbored hole in the center of the bushing that has a bolt securing it to the underside of the tub cross members
Below are some pics that I just snapped with the floor out. Got lots of rust removal to do, going to be a busy week.
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- Thread starter
- #25
Floor is Final Out - More pics
One more pic of the rear of the truck with the floor out.
One more pic of the rear of the truck with the floor out.
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JDCruiser said:
That picture brings back memories!
Yes, you have some work ahead of you. Way to get after it.
John
John
- Thread starter
- #28
New Toys - Compressor Air Tools
Canadian Tire had a great sale on this week for a dual air compressor tool set. One set is a 71 piece general air tool kit with an impact wrench, air ratchet, die grinder, and hammer tool, and air blower with all the accessories for the tools. The second set is a double HVLP paint spary set (one large 0.6L and one small 0.12L) with both guns, 2 air compressors, inline filters, 10 paint filters, and cleaning tools.
Was a great deal, normally $429 and was on for $129 (Savings of $300). I know that they are probably not going to last as long because they are relatively cheap tools but for this price if I can get them to last the life of the project on my truck then it was worth it. Below are some pics of the kits.
Canadian Tire had a great sale on this week for a dual air compressor tool set. One set is a 71 piece general air tool kit with an impact wrench, air ratchet, die grinder, and hammer tool, and air blower with all the accessories for the tools. The second set is a double HVLP paint spary set (one large 0.6L and one small 0.12L) with both guns, 2 air compressors, inline filters, 10 paint filters, and cleaning tools.
Was a great deal, normally $429 and was on for $129 (Savings of $300). I know that they are probably not going to last as long because they are relatively cheap tools but for this price if I can get them to last the life of the project on my truck then it was worth it. Below are some pics of the kits.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Rear Frame Rust Review
Over the last couple of days I have spent some time taking a good look at the rear frame and getting a game plan together. I have determined that it is salvagable and the main rails have some lamination but that can be descaled and if coated with a rust inhibitor they will be good. The rear cross member, corner frame gussets, gusset plates, and rear shackle perches are toast and will be replaced.
I am looking at some options and there is actually a guy name vic that sells frame parts on ebay under the name landcruiserparts. That seems to be a front runner, his parts are nearly identical and affordable. Anyone every use him and have an experience they want to share?
Below are some more detailed pics of the rear frame rust condition.
Over the last couple of days I have spent some time taking a good look at the rear frame and getting a game plan together. I have determined that it is salvagable and the main rails have some lamination but that can be descaled and if coated with a rust inhibitor they will be good. The rear cross member, corner frame gussets, gusset plates, and rear shackle perches are toast and will be replaced.
I am looking at some options and there is actually a guy name vic that sells frame parts on ebay under the name landcruiserparts. That seems to be a front runner, his parts are nearly identical and affordable. Anyone every use him and have an experience they want to share?
Below are some more detailed pics of the rear frame rust condition.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Rear Frame Rust Review - More pics
Some more pics of the rear frame rust.
Some more pics of the rear frame rust.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Rear Frame Rust Review - More Pics
And some more pics..
And some more pics..
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Sand blast time. MIke
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- #33
New Toy - Compressor
Well tody I finally made the decision to make my repair project easier, I went out and got a compressor. I have been researching and eyeing down a 15 gal 200psi 1.6hp Dewalt compressor that Home Depot carries and with it going on sale and then another $50 in store rebate, I decided to go for it. All taxes in it was $394. It has a flow rate capacity of 5.0 SCFM at 90psi and around 6.5 SCFM at 40psi which typically can only be found in compressors around twice its size. All the reviews that I read indicated it was a very good unit and extremely capable. I got it for running a die grinder to get into hard to reach cutting and grindering areas that the angle grinder or drilll mandrel can't go. Also will come in handy for getting those stubborn bolts off with the impact wrench. A big reason why I also bought it is to be able to spray on primar and rust bullet for coating the frame and getting it into all the places that a brush and roller just couldn't get into. A few days ago I bought a set of tools from canadian time, just need to buy an air hose, some quick connects and I should be ready to fire it up. Will be needed later this week as well when I plan on dropping the rear suspension so will try the new impact wrench on the shackle bolts.
Here is a pic of the new toy...
Well tody I finally made the decision to make my repair project easier, I went out and got a compressor. I have been researching and eyeing down a 15 gal 200psi 1.6hp Dewalt compressor that Home Depot carries and with it going on sale and then another $50 in store rebate, I decided to go for it. All taxes in it was $394. It has a flow rate capacity of 5.0 SCFM at 90psi and around 6.5 SCFM at 40psi which typically can only be found in compressors around twice its size. All the reviews that I read indicated it was a very good unit and extremely capable. I got it for running a die grinder to get into hard to reach cutting and grindering areas that the angle grinder or drilll mandrel can't go. Also will come in handy for getting those stubborn bolts off with the impact wrench. A big reason why I also bought it is to be able to spray on primar and rust bullet for coating the frame and getting it into all the places that a brush and roller just couldn't get into. A few days ago I bought a set of tools from canadian time, just need to buy an air hose, some quick connects and I should be ready to fire it up. Will be needed later this week as well when I plan on dropping the rear suspension so will try the new impact wrench on the shackle bolts.
Here is a pic of the new toy...
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I sure hope the idiots in power never allow salt to be put on the roads in winter ANYWHERE in this country.
That rust is horrendous!
That rust is horrendous!
I used Vic's stuff off eBay including the diagonal gussetts, spring perch gussetts and rear crossmember. They were an 8 out of 10.
And only reason i say that is that they are designed around the older 78 and below frame. On my 1981 FJ40 I had to mod the rear crossmember pretty good, like adding 1" of 3/16 steel to top of crossmember filling in holes to access body mounts and relocating them. That ended up costing me double after all was said and done.
Very nice heavy stuff but like I said more suited to earlier 40's.
Dont know how anyone can "restore" anything without an air compressor. I bought mine at Campbell Hausfeld at Tractor Supply.
And only reason i say that is that they are designed around the older 78 and below frame. On my 1981 FJ40 I had to mod the rear crossmember pretty good, like adding 1" of 3/16 steel to top of crossmember filling in holes to access body mounts and relocating them. That ended up costing me double after all was said and done.
Very nice heavy stuff but like I said more suited to earlier 40's.
Dont know how anyone can "restore" anything without an air compressor. I bought mine at Campbell Hausfeld at Tractor Supply.
The only place I found that even offered used rear spring perches was Merle at Classic Cruisers. My mechanic ended up just welding in some new metal for one of my rear hangers and one of the support brackets where it met the rear bumper/crossmember (the drivers side one).
- Thread starter
- #37
Preparing To Drop Rear Suspension
This weekend my focus was to get the truck ready for dropping the rear suspension. I need to drop the suspension to get better access to the frame for reconditioning as well as replacement of the shackles, perches, and gusset plates.So I needed to get any connections with the rear suspension disconnected. Here is what was accomplished:1) Hooked up my new Dewalt 15 Gallon compressor with electrical, air lines, and quick connections2) Used my new mastercraft impact wrench to remove the 4 damper bolts which I had soaking in WD40 for a few days. They came off pretty quick.3) Remove the dampers - these were a bit stubborn. I used a crowbar and a 3lb rubber mallet to free them up from the studs. They will be replaced so not concerned about damage. Just wanted to make sure I didn't bend or damage the studs3) Attempted to undo the flare tube connection that mates the rear suspension flexline to the main body brake tube. I could back it off no problem, but it would come out of the female end, not sure if the flare nut expanded inside causing it to jam on the way out or what. Any of you guys see these flares not want to come all the way off? I think the male flare side was stainless. Anyway, just ended up cutting the flexline near the flare.So it is ready for next weekend where I plan on dropping the suspension. Rear shackles will likely need to be cut off. I will post pics of last weeks work shortly.
This weekend my focus was to get the truck ready for dropping the rear suspension. I need to drop the suspension to get better access to the frame for reconditioning as well as replacement of the shackles, perches, and gusset plates.So I needed to get any connections with the rear suspension disconnected. Here is what was accomplished:1) Hooked up my new Dewalt 15 Gallon compressor with electrical, air lines, and quick connections2) Used my new mastercraft impact wrench to remove the 4 damper bolts which I had soaking in WD40 for a few days. They came off pretty quick.3) Remove the dampers - these were a bit stubborn. I used a crowbar and a 3lb rubber mallet to free them up from the studs. They will be replaced so not concerned about damage. Just wanted to make sure I didn't bend or damage the studs3) Attempted to undo the flare tube connection that mates the rear suspension flexline to the main body brake tube. I could back it off no problem, but it would come out of the female end, not sure if the flare nut expanded inside causing it to jam on the way out or what. Any of you guys see these flares not want to come all the way off? I think the male flare side was stainless. Anyway, just ended up cutting the flexline near the flare.So it is ready for next weekend where I plan on dropping the suspension. Rear shackles will likely need to be cut off. I will post pics of last weeks work shortly.
- Thread starter
- #38
Preping to Remove RR Suspension
Here are some pics of the dampers being removed.
Here are some pics of the dampers being removed.
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- Thread starter
- #39
More Pics of Preparing To Drop Rear Suspension
Some more pics...
Some more pics...
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- Thread starter
- #40
Rear Suspension Finally Out!
Today I dropped the rear suspension. The air compressor with the impact wrench did quick work of the rusted FR and RR shackle bolts. I was surprised at how easily they came out. I had been soaking them for about a week in WD40 but not sure how much that actually did.
The nuts came off the both rear and front shackles, however, the getting the pins out of the hangers was another story. The FR ones were pretty good, took a couple of good wacks with a hammer, then was able to pry them out from the outside with the puller on the hammer. The rear shackle pins wouldn't budge. I wacked on them with a hammer, then a 5 lb sledge, didn't get any movement. I heated them up with a torch, still nothing so I ground the head off the pin (outside) thinking that the flange surface was ceased to the shackle, however, still didn't work. Tried heat again but still couldn't get it to budge. I was starting to bend the shackles so figured it was useless, then cut through the 2 sides of the shackle with a cutting disk on my angle grinder.
Not pretty but it worked and the shackles need to be replaced anyway, so do the hangers. I was hoping to reuse the leaf springs as they didn't seem to be in too bad of shape, however, as some of the pictures below show, the FR collar was cracked on both LH and RH sides so now I will need to source new rear leaf springs.
Below are some pics of the Rear Suspension coming out.
Today I dropped the rear suspension. The air compressor with the impact wrench did quick work of the rusted FR and RR shackle bolts. I was surprised at how easily they came out. I had been soaking them for about a week in WD40 but not sure how much that actually did.
The nuts came off the both rear and front shackles, however, the getting the pins out of the hangers was another story. The FR ones were pretty good, took a couple of good wacks with a hammer, then was able to pry them out from the outside with the puller on the hammer. The rear shackle pins wouldn't budge. I wacked on them with a hammer, then a 5 lb sledge, didn't get any movement. I heated them up with a torch, still nothing so I ground the head off the pin (outside) thinking that the flange surface was ceased to the shackle, however, still didn't work. Tried heat again but still couldn't get it to budge. I was starting to bend the shackles so figured it was useless, then cut through the 2 sides of the shackle with a cutting disk on my angle grinder.
Not pretty but it worked and the shackles need to be replaced anyway, so do the hangers. I was hoping to reuse the leaf springs as they didn't seem to be in too bad of shape, however, as some of the pictures below show, the FR collar was cracked on both LH and RH sides so now I will need to source new rear leaf springs.
Below are some pics of the Rear Suspension coming out.
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