It's trailer time!

[shakotankei]

Thanks for the kind words. The paint I ended up using was Rustoleum "Dark Taupe". Its a satin finish. For some reason I couldn't find it at Home Depot or Lowes but every Walmart in the area stocks that color . I've heard its a pretty close match to MAGPUL's Flat Dark Earth accessories. I don't have any for comparison as my AR15s are all evil and black.

I ended up picking up an LED bar for my license plate at auto zone when i went to pickup some wheel chocks. I don't know if its the same as the one you use but out of the multiple LEDs 3 of them were dim and the hook up wire seems to be really super light duty . ended up taking it apart, replacing the wire with some better stuff, re-soldering the broken LEDs, and painting the chrome black. nylon braid on the wire too of course. It says PILOT on the packaging.

Still haven't done the Thule tracks. Maybe I'll get around to it this weekend. Is there any tricks to it? I know it should be centered as far as front to back but how much space should I put between the track and the edge of the top of the lid?

Had my rivet gun that I bought to put together my INTI a while ago so I re-attached the data plate. Oh and the inside of the tub is still the knuckle grating rhino-liner that came with the trailer from the PO.

 

[Bluetribal]

Still haven't done the Thule tracks. Maybe I'll get around to it this weekend. Is there any tricks to it? I know it should be centered as far as front to back but how much space should I put between the track and the edge of the top of the lid?

Just make sure it's square once you have the front to back and side to side all measured up. Measure from corner to opposite corner for square. Oh and I would recommend not drilling all the holes at once. Do one side (Drill and bolt down) and make sure it still lines up with your marks on the other side before drilling and mounting.

 

[shakotankei]

working on the trailer a little after work today. got the license plate light installed. that should keep me legal.


Replace Chrome with Black Paint: -1 bling
Nylon Braid: +1 bling
--------------------
good to go

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rRblaoeW7D8/T9KcQgD179I/AAAAAAAAB24/sR-JxznVdGY/s912/IMG_2047.JPG

Just make sure it's square once you have the front to back and side to side all measured up. Measure from corner to opposite corner for square. Oh and I would recommend not drilling all the holes at once. Do one side (Drill and bolt down) and make sure it still lines up with your marks on the other side before drilling and mounting.

While I'm sure your advice makes sense I'm having a difficult time understanding it lol . Now I have 60" tracks i think so lengthwise make sure theres equal amount of space from the front of the lid to the track and the back of the lid to the track. the part that concerns me is the side spacing. here are two pictures of what i mean

Is this Right?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4tmRVBJ5c8w/T9KcMN2TazI/AAAAAAAAB2o/fWT389INDq8/s912/IMG_2043.JPG

Or is this right? and how much spacing? from the outside?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dJd_qV6mDis/T9KcMeCODPI/AAAAAAAAB2s/gndzePkpXg4/s912/IMG_2044.JPG

Now most trailers Ive seen have used the second style but I'm not sure how they are figuring the spacing from the outside edge. are they just eyeballing it? Using a Tracks width worth of space? and before anyone says it doesn't really matter that much and its my preference. I really just want to understand everyone else's method to determining whats best for them and their reasoning before I just go based on "what looks right".

 

[Bluetribal]

Sorry Ryan I didn't read your post correctly, when I saw Thule I assumed Racks as in Towers and Cross bars not a track system.

So what will attach to the tracks? A tower or just a cross bar and tent?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD App

 

[Brentbba]

Ryan, FWIW, I think I've got my tracks set in from the edge about 2-3 inches. Take a look at some pics of AT's trailers (Horizon and Chaser) with the tracks on them. I think they are more than the inch you show in your second pic.

Mark - Thule tracks have about 6 bolts in each track that do require drilling through the lid, thus the measure 3x before drilling into a perfectly good lid! They provide a good size tube of silicone to use on and around the bolt holes that provides a good water tight seal. I did not run a bead of silicone along the bottom of the track the entire length on the outer edges to provide even more water sealing and wish I had for the extra protection.

EDIT: did look at AT's site and from the pics I could see of the Chaser lid the track rail appears to be inset on the lid about an inch or so.

 

[krahsh]

glad to see this is coming along nicely. definitely looking a lot better than when i saw you at the walmart when you picked it up.

 

[shakotankei]

glad to see this is coming along nicely. definitely looking a lot better than when i saw you at the walmart when you picked it up.

Thanks! The previous owner kept it in pretty good condition that getting it repainted was pretty straightforward. Repacked the bearings when she got home and she was ready for her maiden voyage to SoCal Desert Rendezvous

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NC6JhXkCHCw/T3EgqaZcDMI/AAAAAAAABZg/XLmfO7nZlZM/s912/IMG_1861.JPG

Some updates:

Took it out on a storage unit run to pick some stuff up. Noticed its riding a little high on the tongue side. Thinking a lift might be in order but I'll wait until its at its final height with LC wheels/285s to see if I should shackle or SOA.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gG05GTW7Wwk/T-ARBO_XEII/AAAAAAAAB6Y/dk3Mp8K0hQM/s912/IMG_0021.JPG

been trying for the last few weeks to get the correct 6 lug hubs for the trailer along with a set of matching wheels. some interesting information: 93-94 wheels are good because they are lug centric when mounting on the new hubs. Can't use the same lug nuts though because the hubs have 1/2"-20 studs and Toyota uses M12-1.5. I've pretty much given up on finding a 93-94 wheel even though I have a spare to pair it up to. 95-97 wheels use the shank style nut that there is no direct replacement in the SAE pattern that I know of. add to that the fact that the 95-97 are hub centric and the trailer hubs are not.

Solution? Spidertrax spacers. Unless I'm missing something these should be the ticket. Converts the studs to metric, has a lip for hub-centric wheels to center on, and widens the M101CDN track just a little closer to the LC. Going to need wider fenders but I would have with or without the spacers going to LC wheels.

 

[fjc8871]

Before and after pics! Looking very good!

 

[shakotankei]

Heres an update from this months progress.

Tracked, racked, hub conversion, and painted wheels.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AI/AAAAAAAACJ0/vtXhYmX-mLo/s1152/IMG_0159.JPG

nice wider stance but fenders rub on hard bumps

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...NI/AAAAAAAACJ8/IYgm_N3AboQ/s1152/IMG_0161.JPG

Took my trailer to a local fabricator to see how much it would cost to have some metal bent up to space the fenders out over the tire and was quoted a couple hundred bucks .Same dudes that did the three awning brackets for my INTI for my ARB awning for less than 100 bucks. Id think those required more work because they were bent and gusseted. Not sure why I'm being bent over for something simpler. Sierra 4x4 makes fenders that sell for 99 a set but theres currently a bunch of drama with them and they look like they won't bolt up without some modifications. I figured having the original fenders just spaced out would be cheaper. Does anyone know anyone in the IE that can do something like that? I want to keep the trailer SUA but the very bottom of my fenders are rubbing when I hit potholes. atleast the lip is rolled or id probably have some cuts on the tread.

 

[VCCruzr]

That is looking really nice Ryan! When are you gonna paint the rims on the cruiser to match?

 

[SoCal_80]

Sweet! I like the reflectors. Where did u get them.

 

[Brentbba]

Ryan - she's looking good man! Unbelievable that you can't get a couple of pieces of metal bent to match the fenders for cheaper than that. It's a piece of sheet metal bent a few times to mirror the existing fender. PO of my trailer did the same thing! Good luck!

You going to slap your tent on the Thule bars now too?

 

[shakotankei]

That is looking really nice Ryan! When are you gonna paint the rims on the cruiser to match?

Haha yeah thought about it. Would be a shame to sand blast and paint the 97 CE rims though. The rims I picked up for the trailer ended up being painted a grey/silver paint probably to cover up the corrosion under the clear that looked like little worm lines. Looked at getting them powder coated but that would defeat the purpose of buying the rims off clist really cheap so I just ended sand blasting and painting them myself.

Sweet! I like the reflectors. Where did u get them.

The reflectors are actually the originals that came on the trailer. Very cool reflector but many M101CDNs didn't make it to the states with them still attached. Triangle reflectors are available on ebay that fit the trailer but its just one big triangle not sectioned out into 4.

Ryan - she's looking good man! Unbelievable that you can't get a couple of pieces of metal bent to match the fenders for cheaper than that. It's a piece of sheet metal bent a few times to mirror the existing fender. PO of my trailer did the same thing! Good luck!

You going to slap your tent on the Thule bars now too?

Its crazy how much the guy quoted me that I didn't even bother to ask how much it would cost to get brand new fenders made. I'm really happy with the awning brackets he made for me in such short notice and those involved welding. I didn't know four bends would cost that much. what gauge steel did Pasquale use when he did the extensions for your fenders? Plan on throwing the RTT on the rack as soon as I get this fender situation dealt with.


Heres a bonus side picture that shows how little clearance I have on the corners of the fenders. Since the wheels are mounted to spidertrax spacers I can actually fit the wheel caps over the hub. Thought about using the spare black ones I have but my friend said just leave them off and run it like this. What do you guys think?

 

[Brentbba]

With the hubs Pasquale used, I don't have caps on my wheels. Always been running that way. I've got durabak on the top of the fenders now, but will try to determine the thickness of the extension and snap you some pics.

On the fenders, I don't have any more clearance than that either, but because of the spring over, I sit higher than you do. I have been looking into adding mud flaps and I think the only way I'd do it is if I put a 2'3" extension on the back of the fender to allow the mud flap to be a little farther away from the tire. As those fenders are now, a straight hanging flap would only be 1-2" behind the tire and that doesn't appear to be very safe to me. Put a query on Portal awhile back about mud flaps and someone posted a link to a set of detachable flaps for *heeps* so that the flaps could be removed once you hit dirt. Only around $80ish IIRC.

EDIT: Here's the link to my Portal thread. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59403-Mud-Flaps

The Teraflex @ $111 is showing out of stock. The Trailflap 12"x18" model for $90 is the one I've been contemplating. Looks like I could mount them just behind the rear of the fender and achieve enough clearance from the tire. One pin removal for either of these when you hit the trail.

 

[FJRanger]

EDIT: Here's the link to my Portal thread. Mud Flaps - Expedition Portal

The Teraflex @ $111 is showing out of stock. The Trailflap 12"x18" model for $90 is the one I've been contemplating. Looks like I could mount them just behind the rear of the fender and achieve enough clearance from the tire. One pin removal for either of these when you hit the trail.

Ryan the trailer looks great!

Sorry, I've no advice for the fender extensions.

But, since the deal I was chasing looks like it's going to someone else, I'll pull my "for sale add" once/if it has finalized. So, I have gone back to looking into some completion items on my trailer. On the Teraflex option I called and they stated they have them in stock and apologized for not having updated the site. They did tell me Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts Online Store - Home has them in stock and usually has free shipping for orders over $100.

Hope that helps.

 

[shakotankei]

Tent mode activated.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DtHdMn0UijE/UCxipOS055I/AAAAAAAACNU/Gsmjdxl2zho/s912/IMG_0187.JPG

Struts work great. The lid doesn't try to shoot up and open anymore with the tent on it. stays shut when you undo the latches but once you crack open the lid it'll lift itself all the way up.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RIkhc60IAF8/UCxiqYEMIdI/AAAAAAAACNk/29AfKSPg4mQ/s912/IMG_0194.JPG'
Yeah yeah I know about the bolts in the lid I still need to cut the excess off and put the caps on them. I also need to give the whole thing a wash as the recent weather has turned the whole thing muddy .

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OylqDBafaKg/UCxip_PEuTI/AAAAAAAACNc/IKMswp1XO6s/s912/IMG_0193.JPG

 

[FJRanger]

Trailer has really come together, well done!

 

[Brentbba]

Very nice Ryan!!!

 

[KensCJ]

Ryan, could I ask about how much you were charged to make the lid? I will try to run by a couple of Metal Fabrication shops in my area soon to get a quote. Just needing an ideal on price.

Thanks in advance,
Ken

 

[yodaTEQ]

Great job on the build. So nice you inspired me.

Can you please post up the info or links to the hub conversion and the lic. plate light.

This site is not good for my addictions