Good work on this! Do you happen to know the part numbers for the rear main seal repair kit? Did you have to do anything similar for the front main seal?
thanks
Dazed
Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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Good work on this! Do you happen to know the part numbers for the rear main seal repair kit? Did you have to do anything similar for the front main seal?
thanks
Dazed
- Thread starter
- #1,202
Seal with larger wear ring 1-09625439-1 number for seal 5-12319003-3 number for wear ring
thanks!
sheesh what a rollercoaster with this thing. if you are bleeding air when running it seems to me your cap placement is correct?
hard to believe there is that much in there still. I dont know anything about the FJ system, but is there a coolant diverter that controls heat? Ive seen those pull air.
hard to believe there is that much in there still. I dont know anything about the FJ system, but is there a coolant diverter that controls heat? Ive seen those pull air.
Any chance the CHRA is leaking charge air into the coolant when running? I am not familiar with the TD04 or whether you are using coolant cooling on it, but it could explain the air bubbles that don't test out as exhaust gas contamination in the coolant.
There is no way I can imagine you would have that much air in the system still after initial fill.
There is no way I can imagine you would have that much air in the system still after initial fill.
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- #1,206
Yeah it has been!
The heater control has a valve just like all the other Toyota's so yes if it's got a leak after the valve it may suck air. I did have a tiny leak there actually a few weeks ago. Just needed to tighten the clamp.
The water cooling on my turbo has been bypassed. In a turbo there is really no way to get boost pressure into the cooking jacket. Thanks for the ideas though.
I have been away for work the last two weeks so have not had a chance to drive it at all and see if moving the cap has helped.
What engine are these for? I talked with a parts guy with Isuzu and he said they were not for a 4BD1T. I assume that you have installed them and they work/fit?
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- #1,208
Got the numbers off a Ozzy Land Rover forum. Think they are for a 6BD1T, same as our engine but an extra 2cyl.
- Thread starter
- #1,209
Today I fixed my substancial fuel leak. I also reinstalled my aux bettery and redid all the wiring in the front of the truck with a blue sea 6 circuit fuel block. I also turned up the fuel one turn and its driving great.
Took it for a 20min drive tonight to check egt's. By the time I got home my overflow was again almost full and the upper radhose was empty. So even having the thermostat high has not fixed my issue. I know its not a head gasket the chemical check did not indicate it. I have blead this POS till im blue in the face. As soon as i start it it starts creating bubbles again. Such a piss off its unbelivable. I pressure tested the cooling system and it only dropped from 25psi to 21psi in an hour so WTF!!! I have no coolant leaks on the floor, no visable leaks on the engine anywhere. The only places I can think that would create suction in the cooling system woukd be after the heater control valve. But would it be enough for me to see this volume of air getting into the cooling system? Are there other areas that have a suction in the cooling system? All the hoses are new, all the seals are new, all the hose clamps are tight.
Took it for a 20min drive tonight to check egt's. By the time I got home my overflow was again almost full and the upper radhose was empty. So even having the thermostat high has not fixed my issue. I know its not a head gasket the chemical check did not indicate it. I have blead this POS till im blue in the face. As soon as i start it it starts creating bubbles again. Such a piss off its unbelivable. I pressure tested the cooling system and it only dropped from 25psi to 21psi in an hour so WTF!!! I have no coolant leaks on the floor, no visable leaks on the engine anywhere. The only places I can think that would create suction in the cooling system woukd be after the heater control valve. But would it be enough for me to see this volume of air getting into the cooling system? Are there other areas that have a suction in the cooling system? All the hoses are new, all the seals are new, all the hose clamps are tight.
why don't you bypass the cab to test, pretty simple and quick to do and at least you'd narrow the problem down quite a bit.
- Thread starter
- #1,212
Was it the seal between the block and the pump or the shaft seal inside the pump?
Plan to try that Wednesday.
Sounds like a proper piss off alright.
You mean radiator cap right??
The shaft seal on water pumps have been known to allow air to be admitted when operating if the seal seat is not installed 100% square to the shaft (causing it to wobble) or the seal is damaged or faulty. A pump in this condition will pass a pressure test for external leaks.
I can't say that I have ever seen a heater tap suck air & not leak, but there is always a first time. It is a high point on the suction side.
I was also wondering what pressure your system holds with the cap on, and what pressure it is when it starts to push coolant to the overflow, as usually once pressure builds high enough then air can't be drawn in (theoretically). Might give us a clue.
The other thing that might be worth a look at is the radiator cap itself. Some cap designs have a float type arrangement for the recovery button (valve) & other have spring type recovery button. The float type gives hit & miss sealing if not completely full of coolant.
So air drawn in when cold (when running via pump seal?) and maybe cap not holding pressure because of said air??. The recovery line from radiator cap should also hold a vacuum. I take it makes air when cold or hot and it does not recover coolant from the bottle by itself as it cools when this happens.
Also good to here the performance at a more desirable level.
You mean radiator cap right??
The shaft seal on water pumps have been known to allow air to be admitted when operating if the seal seat is not installed 100% square to the shaft (causing it to wobble) or the seal is damaged or faulty. A pump in this condition will pass a pressure test for external leaks.
I can't say that I have ever seen a heater tap suck air & not leak, but there is always a first time. It is a high point on the suction side.
I was also wondering what pressure your system holds with the cap on, and what pressure it is when it starts to push coolant to the overflow, as usually once pressure builds high enough then air can't be drawn in (theoretically). Might give us a clue.
The other thing that might be worth a look at is the radiator cap itself. Some cap designs have a float type arrangement for the recovery button (valve) & other have spring type recovery button. The float type gives hit & miss sealing if not completely full of coolant.
So air drawn in when cold (when running via pump seal?) and maybe cap not holding pressure because of said air??. The recovery line from radiator cap should also hold a vacuum. I take it makes air when cold or hot and it does not recover coolant from the bottle by itself as it cools when this happens.
Also good to here the performance at a more desirable level.
I have heard of the pump seal causing this before also. I thought you already blocked off all your bypasses heater and add ons already. You have checked for hot spots all over with a gun. Plus when you did your pressure and crack test it was hot right. Plus does the cruiser system run at the same pressure as the Isuzu. I've had hard diagnostic just with an aftermarket impeller . High vs low volume. Mine just threw it through the bypass which made it hot then out the cap. Yes the flow looked great. Took a gasket then a head and gasket then another gasket before i blocked everything including my bypass before i was able to continue on on a 3 month Alaskan safari.
- Thread starter
- #1,215
Yeah sorry rad cap.
The cap is a toyota .8bar. Its got a spring bleedback valve so not a floating one. The cap is 3 years old and worked perfect pre swap. Maybe a cheap test though. The pressure is building to .8bar then holding droping as the cap bleeds air/coolant to the overflow. It will draw some of the coolant back but not all of it.
Im am suspiciouse of my pump maybe sucking in air. My one concern with that thought is how can it still be sucking in air when the system is pressurized? It kind of defies my greasemonkey logic.
The system is sucking in or making air cold or hot it makes no diffrencem.
I have a non oem new water pump in my shop that I did not use due to stories of them sending the fan through the radiator randomly. I think maybe I should try swaping it on tomorrow. I will also compleatly bypass the heater system and coolant filter to eliminate any quetions there.
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- #1,216
Yes I did bypass everything once when I firs thad the overheat back in August. Since then I have hooked up the heater and the coolant filter again. The HG/Head test was done both hot and cold no diffrence. I do not have any hot spots that I can tell. The only odd hot spot I have found is the waterpump inlet it always seems to be a gew deg hoter than the rest of the system and that to me seems off it should if anything be the cold spot.
If it does it hot or cold, then maybe try running the engine for 10 or 15 seconds or so without the pump connected?
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- #1,218
That is actually a very good idea!! Ill do that first thing tomorrow when I have time to work on it again.
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- #1,219
I was able to snak down and take a quick look at the truck when my wife was not paying attention. Im supose to be working on the baby room.
So last night after a 15 min drive my coolant catch bottle was 1" below the top about 3"-4" above the full line. This morning it was at the full line. I topped off the system from the overflow bottle and its now just slightly over 1/2 between full and add low lines. So its pulling quite a bit of coolant back its just not able to compleatly recover all that is expelled into the overflow.
So last night after a 15 min drive my coolant catch bottle was 1" below the top about 3"-4" above the full line. This morning it was at the full line. I topped off the system from the overflow bottle and its now just slightly over 1/2 between full and add low lines. So its pulling quite a bit of coolant back its just not able to compleatly recover all that is expelled into the overflow.
I'm not sure if you where able to, but did you run the coolant test while driving? I had a car that passed the coolant test while idling for a while. The second you got on the road with a little head wind would loose coolant, and after a while or hard pull would vapor lock the thermostat and over head. Turn the engine off for a bit and all was good til the next pull. Just an idea. Have you smelt the coolant or inside radiator? Wild guesses, but I know I'm out of ideas. Plus I'm set up the same way with the thermostat 2" above the filler with no problems and no special bleeding ritual.
Matt
Matt