Interesting new problem with Key buzzer and door lock (1 Viewer)

[Romer]

Yesterady and interesting problem started. When I turn off the car, take the key out and open the door, the key buzzer goes on. Like it thinks the key is still in the ignition.

It also won't lock from the FOB.

Locking from the drivers door it immediately unlocks.

You can lock it from the passenger door or with the key

It's like it thinks the key is in the ignition.

Last week I installed a brake controller and tied into the brake line at a connector just above where the left foot would be on that plastic block.

I'll get out the wiring diagram later tonight, just thought I would post my issue to see if anyone else solved this. If not, I will post up what I find.

 

[jamisobe]

Does anyone know the fix for this issue? I now have the same issue described above by Romer. My truck thinks the key is still in the ignition.

Yesterday I returned to my truck at the airport to find it dead. The headlights came back on after I left and drained the battery. Got it jumped and now the key-in-ignition-with-door-open sound continues after the key is removed.

 

[UWdave]

I have this same issue and I'm pretty sure the actual sensor in the ignition. I can tap the key hole and the noise will stop. I've thought about dropping a little WD-40 in and seeing if it helps.

 

[jamisobe]

I tapped, banged, sprayed WD-40 in the key hole, pushed around the wiring/unplugged and replugged the plugs in the kick panel and still no dice.

 

[bmwjnky]

Its probably a combo of a worn ignition cylinder and ignition switch. I've seen this issue with other cars and sometimes you can get away with just a new switch but some will need a new cylinder too.

 

[jamisobe]

Its probably a combo of a worn ignition cylinder and ignition switch. I've seen this issue with other cars and sometimes you can get away with just a new switch but some will need a new cylinder too.

I was hoping for a more simple fix.
Guess we don't always get what we want.

 

[axolotl81]

It can also be a worn key. Most of the older toyotas I've seen at the wrecking yards have had that problem. The fins on the key are so worn that after a while the key almost seems to be able to come out without even unlocking the key out of the cylinder.

 

[yohavos]

I would not recommend WD40!

I'm sure there are many that have been using WD40 on stuff like this for years, but after having some new keys made at the local dealership and chatting with a few of the techs (came out to see the Cruiser, of course!) and the older parts guy about my less than stellar luck with door locks and ignition, they said that using WD40 will most likely gum up inside and cause further issue.

They hit every place that took a key with a squirt of graphite (product called Lock Ease or something) and it did absolute wonders for my "key performance" in these.

If you've got a Land Cruiser, it's only $10 to get a new key cut from the dealership. Not sure on the LX's, as they have super cool keys. I would try some graphite and a new key!

Mike

 

[ToyotaDon]

The switch that reads whether the key is in the ignition actually separates from the bottom of the ignition housing. It can be tested according to these FSM instructions.

 

[jamisobe]

The switch that reads whether the key is in the ignition actually separates from the bottom of the ignition housing. It can be tested according to these FSM instructions.

I am going to look into this. Thank you for the tip.

 

[jamisobe]

Problem solved. I pulled the lock cylinder (by placing key in and turning to acc and then depressing the release at the bottom of the cylinder) and found that the key release switch was working. I looked at the cylinder and found that the long lever was sticking. I worked it back and forth to loosen it up and success!

Put it back together and all is good there. Now I need to start on the rear driver side window that just quit working...

 

[Romer]

Yesterady and interesting problem started. When I turn off the car, take the key out and open the door, the key buzzer goes on. Like it thinks the key is still in the ignition.

It also won't lock from the FOB.

Locking from the drivers door it immediately unlocks.

You can lock it from the passenger door or with the key

It's like it thinks the key is in the ignition.

Last week I installed a brake controller and tied into the brake line at a connector just above where the left foot would be on that plastic block.

I'll get out the wiring diagram later tonight, just thought I would post my issue to see if anyone else solved this. If not, I will post up what I find.

Dang - Don't even remember this problem or how I fixed it. Sorry guys.

I know I had to clean up the brake controller wiring.

The problem didnt last long as I don't even remember it. Sorry I didnt post up what happened

 

[UWdave]

Problem solved. I pulled the lock cylinder (by placing key in and turning to acc and then depressing the release at the bottom of the cylinder) and found that the key release switch was working. I looked at the cylinder and found that the long lever was sticking. I worked it back and forth to loosen it up and success!

Put it back together and all is good there. Now I need to start on the rear driver side window that just quit working...

Can you please elaborate on a few points:
1) Removing. "release at the bottom.." Is after you removed the whole ignition from the dash? What is the "release".
2) "Long lever was sticking..." What is this?

I too think my switch is working fine. Otherwise, tapping on the front ring wouldn't fix it like it does now.

 

[jamisobe]

Can you please elaborate on a few points:
1) Removing. "release at the bottom.." Is after you removed the whole ignition from the dash? What is the "release".
2) "Long lever was sticking..." What is this?

I too think my switch is working fine. Otherwise, tapping on the front ring wouldn't fix it like it does now.

1. Remove the plastic panel
2. I removed the glow ring
3. Pull the lock cylinder (put the key in and turn to ACC and with the panel removed you will see the metal lock cylinder release button about 3-4 inches down on the outside of the assembly. Put something pointed in to push the release and then the lock cylinder will pull right out)
4. You will see the plastic key release button on the inside of the ignition assembly with the lock cylinder out.
5. You will then be able to depress the key release button to see if it works. If it works then your problem is the long lever on the lock cylinder. I worked it back and forth to loosen it up and put it back in. It now works.

 

[UWdave]

Thanks a ton for the explanation. It makes sense now and I'm excited to give it a try once I get home.

 

[jamisobe]

Thanks a ton for the explanation. It makes sense now and I'm excited to give it a try once I get home.

I hope it works out for you. I know how annoyed I was by the issue.